I got 2 sets (courtesy of vipon) which work beautifully.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0824WB5ST/
They keep and maintain a solid 1.5V from fresh out of the charger right up to the second they drop dead. And that’s all it takes, ie, zero warning (no dimming or anything) between delivering full power to going teats-up.
Most are current-limited, as there’s only so much you can drain from a “10440” (of course a shorter version, similar to a 14430+reg being stuffed into a 14500 can). But they’re perfect for optical mice, remotes, etc. Anything you don’t want ruined by alkaleaks. Hell, I couldn’t scrounge a pair of alkaleaks that had enough oomf to work a pulse-oximeter I got, remembered I had these lying around, plopped in a pair, and off we go!
They’ll power AAA lights just fine, too, and not dim as SOC decreases like an alkaleak would. But there’s that inevitable case of SIDS as the Li cell hits its cutoff. Was unnerving the first time I experienced it in the basement with my Xeno. Light… light… light… light… light… dark! Zero warning.
For an optical mouse, remote, etc., bfd. Some have usb micro ports, others charge just like a regular Li cell… but from straight 5V from the usb port!! Those “chargers” just feed unfettered 5V from the usb input to the cells, and the cell’s internal charger does its thing. Swap regular alkaleaks for an hour or so, or just wait that long while the little buggers recharge, then swap ’em back in.
Most mice, remotes, etc., couldn’t care less what the nominal “mAH” rating is. So you charge it every 4mos of typical usage vs every 6mos or 8mos. Like I said, bfd. The convenience and lack of typical corrosive incontinence is more than worth it.
One other possibility as far as ease of use would be for those devices (again, typically mice and remotes) that take 2 cells. Plop in a single LFP cell and a dummy cell for rock-solid 3.2V for the “pair”. Again, maybe not the same capacity if you’re chasing those “mAH”, but nigh-zero chance of leakage.