What did you mod today?

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jon_slider
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Thrunite Ti3 mod to High CRI

Dlux
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WOW Ger, a really astonishing first post!!!

jon_slider
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Received some Pebbled TiR, 25 degrees, thanks to a suggestion from moderator007

I removed the TiR from its housing, and replaced the centering ring and reflector on the Thrunite Ti3. It fits perfectly, still waterproof.. whats not to love? Smile

Slim Pickens
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jon_slider wrote:
Received some Pebbled TiR, 25 degrees, thanks to a suggestion from moderator007

I removed the TiR from its housing, and replaced the centering ring and reflector on the Thrunite Ti3. It fits perfectly, still waterproof.. whats not to love? Smile

Nice! Beaded TIRs are my favorite for tint consistency across the beam.
Do these fit with the original glass window in place? Which angle is your favorite?

jon_slider
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yes, the glass is still in place

Ive only tried the 25 degree pebbled TiR so far, I dont think I would want it wider.

I agree pebble is ideal for tint mixing.

Pebble TiR makes a beam with similar diffused brightness gradient as a mule.
Brighter in the middle, diffusing towards the perimeter

Floody is Fun at the close range and low brightness level of these little AAA lights Smile

different beams for different applications
zoomie, reflector, tir:

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
^ OMG how’s that for a first post Shocked Ubercool Ger

+1.
Ger, you know how to make impression. Thumbs Up
chouster
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Agro wrote:
pinkpanda3310 wrote:
^ OMG how’s that for a first post Shocked Ubercool Ger

+1.
Ger, you know how to make impression. Thumbs Up

+1.
Excellent post numero uno
Nicolicous
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MascaratumB wrote:
Modded my Enogear/Fireflies AA Stainless Steel flashlight.
I picked the – already modded – 15mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM that I had in my Tool AA 2.0 Panda White, had to shave it a little more to fit in the brass pill of the Enogear.

I also picked the Luxeon V2 3000K I had installed in that same flashlight and put it into a 10mm DTP MCPCB I got today from LHT store in AliExpress. Well, and then I picked the pebbled TIR and also replaced the original clear TIR of this light.

I am not using the driver retaining ring because the driver is thicker than the original one and the ring doesn’t screw in.

Result: TOP! I like it, it only misses a FC switch instead of a reverse clicky! Aside from that, the DTP MCPCB will handle the heat better than the alu one! The beam is a floody warm white, which I love!

Now…I just need to make it a lanyard Wink

How did you managed to remove the driver brass ring?

mind seem stuck with glue and struggle to open Sad

Nico -.-

Alen
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I

jon_slider wrote:
Received some Pebbled TiR, 25 degrees, thanks to a suggestion from moderator007

I removed the TiR from its housing, and replaced the centering ring and reflector on the Thrunite Ti3. It fits perfectly, still waterproof.. whats not to love? Smile

![img]https://i.imgur.com/5OHrHCbl.jpg[/img]!


Nice,these lens fit also on C01S?
jon_slider
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Alen wrote:
these lens fit also on C01S?

I dont have C01S.

Let us know if you try.

contactcr
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They do fit C01S/R

EDIT: Actually I lied those are not exactly the same as what I have tried. This is what I have tried in C01S/R:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Diameter-13-1mm-Lens/219000_25859...

So I cant specifically say about the others

Alen
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jon_slider wrote:
Alen wrote:
these lens fit also on C01S?

I dont have C01S.

Let us know if you try.

Stock lens with holder of C01S measure ~11.8 mm x 6.8mm.
These pebbled are 11.7 mm x 6.65 mm without holder according to description.
You can try them on your C01R if head is not glued.
I will order them,there are also 10pcs on sale instead of 20
But seem not offer mixed types,but 10 identical.

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Nicolicous wrote:
How did you managed to remove the driver brass ring?

mind seem stuck with glue and struggle to open Sad

I can’t remember exactly if I only pressed it with the hands or if I opened it with some nose point pliers!
First time I opened it was a while ago to make a demonstration of the internals, so I don’t remember well.

In any case, try some pressure with pliers or tweezers , as I think it is not glued (i hope yours isn’t too)!

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I used pliers on at least 1/2 of mine. I think on one after I got it off I also took a tiny file and made 2 larger notches on the inside to loosen/tighten with strong steel tweezers in the future.

There is always a little heat/cold or a drop of alcohol on the threads if you need any tricks to try.

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dropped a 3200k XPL into my Manker E04, dropped a 219C into one of my old S2+ lights, and dropped 4000k XPL into a cheapo Hilka 2x C cell light just to see if the driver would still work, it did so I`m leaving it in there (much nicer than blue/white).

it was nice just having an afternoon free! Smile

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Thrunite Ti3
LH351D 2700k w TiR that moderator007 discovered.

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So, getting back in the swing of things. I figured before I jumped right into my Old Lumens build, I’d warm up by completing my SP70 mod.

I had previously baked the bare host, getting a nice two-tone green and greenish-sand. I’m quite pleased with it. I ordered an L6 MTN-30ddm driver from Mountain, noting that Richard no longer offers it with a 7135 (which my actual L6 driver came with). But, what’s this? It still has the 7135 pad. And I happened to order several dozen 7135s from Richard for other purposes on the same order…

I also tested out the switch board the SP70 came with. Ground, Green LED+, SW+… something to do with the red LED

Welp, with a ATTiny85 I only get one switch LED, so green LEDs it is. Removed the red LED-related wire and found a spot that hits pin3 on the ATTiny85. My L6’s Anduril build is already setup to use that otherwise-unused pin for LED control.
Switch springs need a bypass.

Easy.
Also, a trick for keeping the MCPCB from sinking all the heat from the iron when (dis)connecting leads:

That’s a Q-tip with one end cut off, and the cut end is stuck under the MCPCB’s edge. The thermal paste is already applied under there.

As far as the light, at first it worked, but the voltage readout in Anduril is incorrect. I spent a lot of time getting that right on my Convoy L6, and I thought I’d done it the same way for this Anduril build, but it’s not working right and is a bit beyond me for the moment. I also blew something with the 7135 channel (after some testing of the light, it malfunctioned and it’s now just on fully 100% of the time, even if the light is off) and I really don’t want to pull the driver again. I need to swap the leads for longer 18 gauge anyway, which means drilling out the center hole in the driver larger, and I’m just not thrilled about getting back into it at the moment. But at least if I get that done I won’t have to disconnect the MCPCB every single time I need to reflash the driver (which will probably be quite a few times at this rate). Otherwise the switch LEDs are working great and it ramps fine – I can see the ramp once it gets past full 7135 and I can also see the switch LEDs go from dim to bright during the ramp.

So I set that one aside, beauty that it is. I also reflowed one of my DOGFARTS onto a 20mm MCPCB, and a 80CRI Luxeon HL2× 4000K onto a 16mm MCPCB. The DOGFARTS went into my Boruit D10 with the Quadrupel FET+1 driver, and I haven’t done anything with the Luxeon other than make sure it works (at low power, with the correct polarity, using my DMM). I’ll probably put one of the HL2Xs in my next modded light just to see how it fares in a reflector. The DOGFARTS looks great behind a 25 degree TIR. (And if anyone was wondering, handles a 35E on full FET just fine.)

Light Veteran
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After read and see 321 pages of this thread now i am Flashlight ultra expert engineer Facepalm
I am ready for mod Tiablo A8 for the second time, maybe in the next future.
Cheers

Flashlight addicted

MoreLumens
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My most used indoor light Fenix MC11 had SST20 2700k, but now it has 219b sw45k. Also dc-fix. Pic with two stock Nichia lights, Manker E03H Nichia 219c and Nitecore LA10 CRI which has 219b sw50 maybe?

MC11 219b:

Cant go wrong. Its so pure white which just makes colors pop.

Tartarus
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I did an illuminated tailcap on the switch on my Convoy T2.

With these 12mm(D) x 5.5mm(H) Silicone Tailcaps (5 pcs) GITD Light Green
Very good quality but unfortunately the bulge is short which pushes the button.
I cut a 0.8mm slice of rubber from another tailcap and glued it with neutral silicone.

I soldered 0805 47k + green LED to both sides of the switch.
And of course I bypassed the spring without damaging the gold surface.
Even without any modification of the washer, the glow is perfect.
Of course it only lights with 14500.

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Light Veteran wrote:
After read and see 321 pages of this thread now i am Flashlight ultra expert engineer Facepalm
I am ready for mod Tiablo A8 for the second time, maybe in the next future.
Cheers

.
Yrs ago I started playing Disc Golf at a local park. I found it difficult to throw a disc like other people playing.
One day I asked a guy who appeared good how long does it take to be as good as he is and he replied “ After you throw a disc 1,000 times “.
And that was proven to be a very accurate answer. We like your enthusiasm to learn ‘ Light Veteran ‘ Thumbs Up
The more times you do something, the easier it gets. Wink
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CNCman wrote:
…. . The more times you do something, the easier it gets. Wink

Eh, the fatality rate decreases. Ever so slow.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

Light Veteran
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CNCman wrote:
Light Veteran wrote:
After read and see 321 pages of this thread now i am Flashlight ultra expert engineer Facepalm I am ready for mod Tiablo A8 for the second time, maybe in the next future. Cheers
. Yrs ago I started playing Disc Golf at a local park. I found it difficult to throw a disc like other people playing. One day I asked a guy who appeared good how long does it take to be as good as he is and he replied “ After you throw a disc 1,000 times “. And that was proven to be a very accurate answer. We like your enthusiasm to learn ‘ Light Veteran ‘ Thumbs Up The more times you do something, the easier it gets. Wink

Yes… try, try and try. I agree!
Light Veteran is because i follow the flashlight and world of led from 1993. If I remember the first flashlight was Maglite D2. Now inside there is a Malkoff drop in.
You are a CNC man.. i love cnc
Thank you for replay

Flashlight addicted

Chicken Drumstick
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Blast from the past……

I bought this LusteFire U2-X3 many years ago. It’s big and heavy but performed well at the time. It used regular old XM-Ls, but still managed to throw well with its triple emitter setup. Each emitter has a reflector slightly bigger than an X6 or slightly smaller than a C8.

I had big plans for the light and stripped it a few times. Then the driver retaining ring jammed in place. Took me ages to get it out (had to cut it out). Plus some other issues. So the light has sat at the back of the shelf collecting dust for yonks now.

I eventually decided to revamp it and get it working again. I located the stock driver in a box and ordered up 3 x XP-L HI (NW) from Int’l Outdoor. And decided just to try and put the thing back together, rather than significantly upgrade it.

What a PITA it turned out to be. I just couldn’t get the LEDs to stay in place with thermal paste. So I ended up drilling and screwing them down, sadly one must have moved and is ever so slightly not aligned.

The Noctigon boards and wiring also seem to stop the LEDs sitting deep enough into the reflector for my liking. Probably because the HI’s have no dome.

Up close the beam is a bit horrid with a void in it. However 20 yards and out it performs great!

Obviously there are way more powerful and/or throwy lights these days. Maybe I should have gone for a triple XHP50.2 or even Osram setup. But it is quite usable with the XPL-HI’s. According to Lux bounce tests I’m seeing similar numbers to my FT03 (XHP50.2) or MF01 Mini on High. Which I’d guess must be 2000-2500 lumens.

Although it does seem to out throw the FT03 unless the FT03 is running on Turbo, then the throw seems pretty similar. The hotspot is also wider than a single XM-L2/XP-L HI which makes it quite handy out over the fields.

I think the biggest thing is, it offers this performance without even getting warm and with 3 × 26650 is likely to have a long runtime at a high sustained output. Running the FT03 on Turbo to match the throw results in lots of heat, step down and much shorter runtimes.

By BLF standards I guess this mod is a bit ghetto and uninteresting. But for me I like to make the things I have usable. And this has certainly achieved that goal.


And showing the physical size vs a C8

Bourbon Guy
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Kaidomain AA host (same as convoy T2), XHP50 3V, optic from kaidomain, and HarleyQuin’s 17B programmable boost driver running modified star firmware with 3 modes. The low mode stays reasonably low with a 14500 as well. The soldering was pretty ugly. It’s been a long time since I did any flashlight stuff.

I’ll take a shot at the 15mm version for a tool AA next. I can’t stand the stock driver’s mode memory.

Beam shot is a NIMH on high.

CNCman
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Chicken Drumstick wrote:
Blast from the past……

I bought this LusteFire U2-X3 many years ago. It’s big and heavy but performed well at the time. It used regular old XM-Ls, but still managed to throw well with its triple emitter setup. Each emitter has a reflector slightly bigger than an X6 or slightly smaller than a C8.

I had big plans for the light and stripped it a few times. Then the driver retaining ring jammed in place. Took me ages to get it out (had to cut it out). Plus some other issues. So the light has sat at the back of the shelf collecting dust for yonks now.

I eventually decided to revamp it and get it working again. I located the stock driver in a box and ordered up 3 x XP-L HI (NW) from Int’l Outdoor. And decided just to try and put the thing back together, rather than significantly upgrade it.

What a PITA it turned out to be. I just couldn’t get the LEDs to stay in place with thermal paste. So I ended up drilling and screwing them down, sadly one must have moved and is ever so slightly not aligned.

The Noctigon boards and wiring also seem to stop the LEDs sitting deep enough into the reflector for my liking. Probably because the HI’s have no dome.

Up close the beam is a bit horrid with a void in it. However 20 yards and out it performs great!

Obviously there are way more powerful and/or throwy lights these days. Maybe I should have gone for a triple XHP50.2 or even Osram setup. But it is quite usable with the XPL-HI’s. According to Lux bounce tests I’m seeing similar numbers to my FT03 (XHP50.2) or MF01 Mini on High. Which I’d guess must be 2000-2500 lumens.

Although it does seem to out throw the FT03 unless the FT03 is running on Turbo, then the throw seems pretty similar. The hotspot is also wider than a single XM-L2/XP-L HI which makes it quite handy out over the fields.

I think the biggest thing is, it offers this performance without even getting warm and with 3 × 26650 is likely to have a long runtime at a high sustained output. Running the FT03 on Turbo to match the throw results in lots of heat, step down and much shorter runtimes.

By BLF standards I guess this mod is a bit ghetto and uninteresting. But for me I like to make the things I have usable. And this has certainly achieved that goal.


Wink
And showing the physical size vs a C8
!https://i.imgur.com/pjjx9K6l.jpg!


.
.
You said :
“By BLF standards I guess this mod is a bit ghetto and uninteresting. But for me I like to make the things I have usable. And this has certainly achieved that goal.”
.
I see you have accomplished a very difficult modification on a unique light. We all make BLF what it simply is “ a place friends can share their experiences and love of lights “, You nailed that Thumbs Up Keep sharing ! there are many here who need encouragement to post their lights. Posts like yours helps make that happen. Big Smile
.
contactcr
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Never modding plastic again.

now 238 lumens, one mode, LH351D 5000K 90 CRI from DeWalt 12V tool flashlight

I feel like I was lucky to be able to get it back together and still have it articulate correctly. Lots of bending and snapping things into place. Pill was extremely glued to reflector (it’s threaded in too). I couldn’t break the glue without snipping the wires so I had to patch a new section of like 3cm worth of wire together. Due to potting and lack of any suitable wire I couldn’t just replace the whole length. The beam turned out very nice and works well for the purpose of this tool.

Nachtfeuerzeug
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Of all the lights that you've bought over the years and there's one that just still needs something, is a PITB, maybe now a beater... and cost too much $ looking back! Well, mine is this UF C2 and it's all that:

On Friday, I just wanted to do an emitter swap, from an XM-L2 to an LH351D, and had soldered in a 5A Convoy driver months ago. What a mess made over time... original reworked and newer solder:

I tested the light in mule mode and everything was great and I was excited, too excited! In the process of putting it all back together, I didn't insulate the reflector enough (PITB #1) and shorted out something. Turns out it was the driver

So, I looked for a replacement 17mm driver and it looked like I was going to rearrange the configuration of two other lights to get this C2 going again.  Well, I didn't want to have that much fun and started thinking about what I could do... without solder.  I have been looking at some 20mm Convoy retaining rings in the bin and been wanting to use them for something. And, I had an extra 'old' Convoy 20mm, 6 amp driver that could sit under the pill. So I plopped one ring in at the top of the battery tube to rig some type of 'driver press in place' configuration. Here's the shelf (yellow arrow), threading for the brass pill (green) and it sits atop the tube end (shelf), AWESOME!:

Awesome, kinda. After check-fitting and adding more rings, I realized the driver was going to need solder so it doesn't get positioned wrong and get shorted in a different way... BWAAAAAH!

The bright (haha!) side of this is that it can use a higher amp driver and have better electrical contact with negative outer ring on the 20mm driver than the 17mm sitting in the pill. PITB #2 issue was that I could not get higher tail cap amps (poor connection) due to a previous crappy soldering iron, brass pill, etc. 

So, not to repeat mistake due to PITB #1, I insulated like crazy:

The results are quite satisfying:

The beam pattern and output is very similar to my D80v.2 with a LH351D, 5000K. With a Molicel P26A, it's measuring almost 6A.  As much as I like my D80, I'll probably use the expensive UF C2 'beater' more!

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K

NeutralFan
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Nice mod Nachtfeuerzeug. It’s alway nice to take an old flashlight and make it relevant again.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Nachtfeuerzeug
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NeutralFan wrote:
Nice mod Nachtfeuerzeug. It's alway nice to take an old flashlight and make it relevant again.

Thank you NeutralFan!

You know, I was impressed by Chicken Drumsticks' triple mod and CNCmans' comment on it inspired me.

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K

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