That’s a great looking light. You can do this with oven cleaner. It will remove the anodizing. I didn’t care for the sand color and used oven cleaner with good results. Unfortunately I had already mechanically removed the anodizing in some areas, and that didn’t turn out so great. If you have access to a lathe you could easily modify the knurled area like that too. :sunglasses:
My first version aluminum D4 lights don’t have the same threads as my D4V2 Ti. Does anyone know if the aluminum D4V2 threads are the same as the D4V2 Ti?
Hi all,
For D4V2 with XP-L HI LEDs is there any reason to choose 5A driver over 7.5A?
No, for XP-L HI go with 7.5A.
Got mine about 4 days ago. 3 weeks from order to delivery. Can’t complain about that really. I usually expect 4 to 6 weeks.
Only complaint I have? It’s really really really really, heavy. Even with the 350 tube on it, it’s really heavy. Don’t know what I was thinking. It was so good looking, my finger couldn’t help but hit the buy button.
The 4000k 219C’s look really nice and of course it operates perfectly and is very well built. I don’t know what to do with it. Too heavy to carry and I’m not much on collecting shelf queens. It’s back in the box for now.
They do look good and agreed, very very heavy. Funny thing is, I thought the aluminium D4V2 was reasonably heavy but now I have a renewed appreciation for it’s low mass in the pocket properties.
Despite its weight I’ve been using the copper D4V2 on dog walks, with it being winter here in UK I appreciate the hand warmer and extended runtime of the copper thermal properties.
I have since put a forced patina on mine using the hard boiled eggs method.
I have been carrying the brass d4v2 all day, everyday for about a month now, since i got it. I don’t know how much heavier the copper is, but ill buy it off you.
EDIT - What emitters does it have? - i see its 4000k nichia 219c
PM me if you’re interested.
Artie
Bruh, you literally collect flashlights :person_facepalming:
Guess you’ve not don’t much photography.
Would you happen to have any more pictures? I’ve been on the fence and trying to resist…but that looks good! :sunglasses: :+1:
Sure - These shots are after the patina treatment, the last shot outside is after a few days of wear.
[quote=G.P.]
Nice reply with the last picture “on the fence” LOL
That forced patina looks great!
It sure does…thank you for the additional pictures! 
What is the correct version of Anduril (or Anduril 2) for D4V2 with E21A? Is it going to be the one for KR4 with nofet? If I remember correctly, both KR4 and D4V2 with E21A have the same driver (linear with 5A max).
Thanks.
I found the answer. I should have done more search before asking. I certainly will next time.
Hank,
I received my replacement parts order, thank you! Like a 2 week shipping time! The two new deep carry clips are great on my KR1 and kr4.
My Noctigon KR4 in Cyan with E21A at 2700K arrived today!
Ordered November 13th (soon after the Reddit post), shipped December 1st, and arrived in the U.S. at my house on the morning of the 18th (18 days in shipping).
Everything seems to be working fantastically - flashed Anduril 2 via the reflashing kit (just the AVRdude commands on Linux), light functions well. There’s a small chip out of the corner of the 10621 optics but it doesn’t seem to affect the beam and I’m fine with it.
Edit 2020-12-18: As noted by Frostcream, this appears to be an expected part of the LED optic, not a flaw.
I had trouble with the light flickering when turning on (later realizing it was factory resetting when pushing the button), but as noted in this 1lumen review of the KR1, about 4 times of loosening and tightening fixed that.
You mean the one directly next to one of the LEDs? This optic has what appears to be a chip, but it isn’t. They’re all like that. I thought the same thing when I got my first D4V2 (same optic)
Yep, directly next to one of the LEDs, at the edge. Thank you for clarifying that! I’m guessing it might be a part of the manufacturing process (e.g. where the mold is filled). I’ll edit my original post as well.