Some help?
Wow, things have changed a bit on the flashlight horizon since my last season of hanging out here!
This looks like an well-designed pocket light. I have the E07, and love it.
Could someone give me a BRIEF rundown of pros and cons for the offered emitters? Last time I was on here a lot, the crowd was about evenly divided between the “most possible lumens Cree” folks and the “rosy at all costs Nichia” folks. I’ve never even heard of the Samsung emitters!
So what the pluses and minuses between -
SST20 Group
Samsung group
New Nichia offering
Cree XPL2
??
And sorry for my remedial memory and knowledge!
(in the past, I have leaned towards the higher lumen options, but not the completely ugly end of that spectrum)
the beam “points”/is slightly “throwy” compared to the rest but not compared to reflector light. beam color is not great, CRI is very low, overall lumens good
SST20 10W 5000K NW
the beam “points”/is slightly “throwy” compared to the rest but not compared to reflector light. beam color is not great, CRI is very low, overall lumens good
Sumsung LH351D 5700K W2 CRI80 (+$15.00)
the beam will be floody and make a very round/even beam from edge to edge. beam color is ?? but probably ok since it’s even, CRI is middle of the raod, overall lumens good
Sumsung LH351D 4000K CRI90 (+$15.00)
the beam will be floody and make a very round/even beam from edge to edge. beam color is may be faint lime color indoors on white wall, outside it will be fine, CRI is GOOD, overall lumens good
Nichia 219B SW45k D220 R9080 4500K (+$10.00)
floody beam, fairly even across beam. tint will be pinkish color indoors/white wall but normal outside. CRI is VERY GOOD, output is LOW compared to other options
CREE XPL2 HD W2 6500K (+$30.00)
you couldn’t pay ME $30 to choose this option. It will be very high lumens, low CRI, very floody, probably not very even beam
np. aside from the cool white SST-20’s they are all very floody LEDs (which lets be honest with 12 emitters it’s bound to happen). I would be surprised if they didn’t bring back SST-20 4000K and XP-L HI though
- The XPL2 will make the highest output, my guess is 13k+ lumens with a 30T considering TM9K w/ 9xXPL2 makes over 9k lumens with a low current cell, but will be too blue and Cree has the most tint shift.
- 219b sw45k will have the most pleasant 4500k rosy tint but the most inefficient and lowest output.
-The SST20 4000k should still be the FA3 bin, which have the lowest DUV (rosy) of all SST20 4000K I’ve seen and I’ve seen many. Still nowhere as rosy as the sw45k but better than any SST20 4000K by other flashlight manufacturers.
- SST40 6500k is will have the best throw. However, this is not a throw flashlight but a wide floody light.
- If you want high output and good light quality, the LH351D 5700K 80CRI is a good compromise. I checked with FF and the 5700K is Q2 tint bin, which is essentially afternoon sunlight CCT, or pure white. W2 is the highest flux bin achievable for 80CRI.
- The LH351D 4000k is CRI 90 and T7 tint bin. Don’t know what flux bin. The T7 bin is less green than other LH351D 4000k on the market but still a bit green. It should be a whole lot better than the LH351D 4000k in the E14 III, which I needed a Lee quarter minus green filter to neutralize the green.
Nice light, but how long would turbo last with only one battery............. 5 seconds? 12,000 lumens on a single cell almost seems a little dangerous.
klrman, you are assuming each LED consumes a fixed current but it isn’t true. It may not draw much more current than E07 but have more output because more LEDs being driven at lower amps per LED where they are more efficient.
That is at turbo only. Any lower setting should be current limited and MUCH more efficient since it isn’t using PWM but more efficient buck driver.
On the lower setting yes, but the specs state 1 min at turbo with no step down, which means the battery is draining scarily fast before it looses all it's steam which to me could be dangerous as it's putting immense pressure on that single battery. Maybe I'm wrong and there is a step down at turbo, but on the FF website it doesn't show it. It does state at the bottom that turbo is only available in the advanced UI not the simple UI to avoid over heating.
This chart is confusing. Look at the 2nd picture under “1st Thermal Stepdown”. It steps down from 12,000lm to 2,580lm after 1 minute and then from there to 1200lm after 10 minutes if I am reading it right.
You're right, I should have opened my eyes more! Also states final stepdown to 1200lm will last 2 hrs which is pretty good really. I may sell both my rot66's and get one of these for fun.
The runtime and sustainable brightness of this light should put a lot of others with “direct drive”/PWM drivers to shame. IMO, this is pretty exciting to see our enthusiast brands using drivers like these.
It should be like having a Zebralight/Acebeam/etc quality driver with higher max output and more configurable UI, cheaper price, can upgrade firmware, more LED choices.