What did you mod today?

+1.
Ger, you know how to make impression. :+1:

+1.
Excellent post numero uno

How did you managed to remove the driver brass ring?

mind seem stuck with glue and struggle to open :frowning:

I

Nice,these lens fit also on C01S?

I dont have C01S.

Let us know if you try.

They do fit C01S/R

EDIT: Actually I lied those are not exactly the same as what I have tried. This is what I have tried in C01S/R:

So I cant specifically say about the others

Stock lens with holder of C01S measure ~11.8 mm x 6.8mm.
These pebbled are 11.7 mm x 6.65 mm without holder according to description.
You can try them on your C01R if head is not glued.
I will order them,there are also 10pcs on sale instead of 20
But seem not offer mixed types,but 10 identical.

I can’t remember exactly if I only pressed it with the hands or if I opened it with some nose point pliers!
First time I opened it was a while ago to make a demonstration of the internals, so I don’t remember well.

In any case, try some pressure with pliers or tweezers , as I think it is not glued (i hope yours isn’t too)!

I used pliers on at least 1/2 of mine. I think on one after I got it off I also took a tiny file and made 2 larger notches on the inside to loosen/tighten with strong steel tweezers in the future.

There is always a little heat/cold or a drop of alcohol on the threads if you need any tricks to try.

dropped a 3200k XPL into my Manker E04, dropped a 219C into one of my old S2+ lights, and dropped 4000k XPL into a cheapo Hilka 2x C cell light just to see if the driver would still work, it did so I`m leaving it in there (much nicer than blue/white).

it was nice just having an afternoon free! :slight_smile:

Thrunite Ti3
LH351D 2700k w TiR that moderator007 discovered.

So, getting back in the swing of things. I figured before I jumped right into my Old Lumens build, I’d warm up by completing my SP70 mod.

I had previously baked the bare host, getting a nice two-tone green and greenish-sand. I’m quite pleased with it. I ordered an L6 MTN-30ddm driver from Mountain, noting that Richard no longer offers it with a 7135 (which my actual L6 driver came with). But, what’s this? It still has the 7135 pad. And I happened to order several dozen 7135s from Richard for other purposes on the same order…

I also tested out the switch board the SP70 came with. Ground, Green LED, SW… something to do with the red LED…

Welp, with a ATTiny85 I only get one switch LED, so green LEDs it is. Removed the red LED-related wire and found a spot that hits pin3 on the ATTiny85. My L6’s Anduril build is already setup to use that otherwise-unused pin for LED control.
Switch springs need a bypass.

Easy.
Also, a trick for keeping the MCPCB from sinking all the heat from the iron when (dis)connecting leads:

That’s a Q-tip with one end cut off, and the cut end is stuck under the MCPCB’s edge. The thermal paste is already applied under there.

As far as the light, at first it worked, but the voltage readout in Anduril is incorrect. I spent a lot of time getting that right on my Convoy L6, and I thought I’d done it the same way for this Anduril build, but it’s not working right and is a bit beyond me for the moment. I also blew something with the 7135 channel (after some testing of the light, it malfunctioned and it’s now just on fully 100% of the time, even if the light is off) and I really don’t want to pull the driver again. I need to swap the leads for longer 18 gauge anyway, which means drilling out the center hole in the driver larger, and I’m just not thrilled about getting back into it at the moment. But at least if I get that done I won’t have to disconnect the MCPCB every single time I need to reflash the driver (which will probably be quite a few times at this rate). Otherwise the switch LEDs are working great and it ramps fine - I can see the ramp once it gets past full 7135 and I can also see the switch LEDs go from dim to bright during the ramp.

So I set that one aside, beauty that it is. I also reflowed one of my DOGFARTS onto a 20mm MCPCB, and a 80CRI Luxeon HL2X 4000K onto a 16mm MCPCB. The DOGFARTS went into my Boruit D10 with the Quadrupel FET+1 driver, and I haven’t done anything with the Luxeon other than make sure it works (at low power, with the correct polarity, using my DMM). I’ll probably put one of the HL2Xs in my next modded light just to see how it fares in a reflector. The DOGFARTS looks great behind a 25 degree TIR. (And if anyone was wondering, handles a 35E on full FET just fine.)

After read and see 321 pages of this thread now i am Flashlight ultra expert engineer :person_facepalming:
I am ready for mod Tiablo A8 for the second time, maybe in the next future.
Cheers

I did an illuminated tailcap on the switch on my Convoy T2.

With these 12mm(D) x 5.5mm(H) Silicone Tailcaps (5 pcs) GITD Light Green
Very good quality but unfortunately the bulge is short which pushes the button.
I cut a 0.8mm slice of rubber from another tailcap and glued it with neutral silicone.

I soldered 0805 47k + green LED to both sides of the switch.
And of course I bypassed the spring without damaging the gold surface.
Even without any modification of the washer, the glow is perfect.
Of course it only lights with 14500.

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Yrs ago I started playing Disc Golf at a local park. I found it difficult to throw a disc like other people playing.
One day I asked a guy who appeared good how long does it take to be as good as he is and he replied ” After you throw a disc 1,000 times “.
And that was proven to be a very accurate answer. We like your enthusiasm to learn ’ Light Veteran ’ :+1:
The more times you do something, the easier it gets. :wink:

Eh, the fatality rate decreases. Ever so slow.

Yes… try, try and try. I agree!
Light Veteran is because i follow the flashlight and world of led from 1993. If I remember the first flashlight was Maglite D2. Now inside there is a Malkoff drop in.
You are a CNC man… i love cnc
Thank you for replay

Blast from the past……

I bought this LusteFire U2-X3 many years ago. It’s big and heavy but performed well at the time. It used regular old XM-Ls, but still managed to throw well with its triple emitter setup. Each emitter has a reflector slightly bigger than an X6 or slightly smaller than a C8.

I had big plans for the light and stripped it a few times. Then the driver retaining ring jammed in place. Took me ages to get it out (had to cut it out). Plus some other issues. So the light has sat at the back of the shelf collecting dust for yonks now.

I eventually decided to revamp it and get it working again. I located the stock driver in a box and ordered up 3 x XP-L HI (NW) from Int’l Outdoor. And decided just to try and put the thing back together, rather than significantly upgrade it.

What a PITA it turned out to be. I just couldn’t get the LEDs to stay in place with thermal paste. So I ended up drilling and screwing them down, sadly one must have moved and is ever so slightly not aligned.

The Noctigon boards and wiring also seem to stop the LEDs sitting deep enough into the reflector for my liking. Probably because the HI’s have no dome.

Up close the beam is a bit horrid with a void in it. However 20 yards and out it performs great!

Obviously there are way more powerful and/or throwy lights these days. Maybe I should have gone for a triple XHP50.2 or even Osram setup. But it is quite usable with the XPL-HI’s. According to Lux bounce tests I’m seeing similar numbers to my FT03 (XHP50.2) or MF01 Mini on High. Which I’d guess must be 2000-2500 lumens.

Although it does seem to out throw the FT03 unless the FT03 is running on Turbo, then the throw seems pretty similar. The hotspot is also wider than a single XM-L2/XP-L HI which makes it quite handy out over the fields.

I think the biggest thing is, it offers this performance without even getting warm and with 3 x 26650 is likely to have a long runtime at a high sustained output. Running the FT03 on Turbo to match the throw results in lots of heat, step down and much shorter runtimes.

By BLF standards I guess this mod is a bit ghetto and uninteresting. But for me I like to make the things I have usable. And this has certainly achieved that goal.


And showing the physical size vs a C8

Kaidomain AA host (same as convoy T2), XHP50 3V, optic from kaidomain, and HarleyQuin’s 17B programmable boost driver running modified star firmware with 3 modes. The low mode stays reasonably low with a 14500 as well. The soldering was pretty ugly. It’s been a long time since I did any flashlight stuff.

I’ll take a shot at the 15mm version for a tool AA next. I can’t stand the stock driver’s mode memory.

Beam shot is a NIMH on high.

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You said :
“By BLF standards I guess this mod is a bit ghetto and uninteresting. But for me I like to make the things I have usable. And this has certainly achieved that goal.”
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I see you have accomplished a very difficult modification on a unique light. We all make BLF what it simply is ” a place friends can share their experiences and love of lights “, You nailed that :+1: Keep sharing ! there are many here who need encouragement to post their lights. Posts like yours helps make that happen. :smiley:
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