*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

The head of my BLF Q8 (first batch, Thorfire) does not screw into the tube of my BLF LT1 (rev 5.0).
But the head of my BLF LT1 screws (and works perfectly) onto the tube of my BLF Q8.

Our LT1 did the exact same thing.

I emailed Sofirn but they never replied, so we just sent it back to Amazon (Prime).

I have the sofirn Q8 and the BLF LT1 and they fit each other normally :slight_smile:

Thanks for the confirmation … so i think, if i summarize, that, as there are two flavors of the Q8 (initial BLF Q8 and then the Sofirn Q8 version) :

- The initial BLF Q8 is not 100% compatible, as stated by @Unloco

  • But the Sofirn Q8 works flawlessly while exchanging parts

(indeed, i tend to like to have compatible stuff)

Sofirn Q8 :

Sofirn BLF Q8 :

Maybe Sofirm could offer these parts indidually.
So if you have an LT1 you could buy a Sofirn Q8 head etc

Have any Australians been able to get anything delivered? My order was turned back by Chinese customs.

Same.
SP40 Green 5300K without battery. “Nov 17, 2020 15:02 EMS China Post Returned”.
Sofirn IF25A 4000K is still in transit.
I contacted Sofirn on AliExpress.
They sent out another SP40 Green.
Then they received the first SP40 from customs and sent another one.
I received two SP40’s. Feeling a bit sheepish. Thanks for the awesome customer service Sofirn. :smiley:

Contact Sofirn? :innocent:

I’ve messaged and asked for a refund. So much back and forth to and from facilities. I have no faith in anything getting delivered.

Is there anyone willing to try my custom 16 bit build of Anduril 2 for the LT1? I'd love to get some feedback on it.

It provides nice and smooth tint ramping and much less tint flickering when dimming at low modes, it's just that the brightness curve is somehow bumpy and I haven't figured out why yet (I actually suspect hardware non-linearities). I haven't seen anyone else do this yet (faking 16 bit on an 8 bit capable MCU).

I can provide a zip with the source code and hex file to anyone interested (I still don't understand how to add my code to TK's firmware repository without considerable effort).

Had an SP36 rpurchased 11.11 returned twice but got here a few days ago.

I have not heard anything back from Barry on the colored versions yet.

So, as a confirmation, as i was asking …
I bought (from official SOFIRN store) :

- At first the BLF Lantern “SOFIRN LT1” here : 22.92€ |Sofin — Lanterne De Camping Led Multifonction 8 X Samsung Lh351d (blf Lt1), Lampe Ultra Lumineuse Avec Variateur De Couleur 2700k-5000k - Led Lampes De Poche - AliExpress

And so now i can confirm that, even if the base tubes are not 100% identical, they can freely be switched with lamp part of both lamp (both combinations are working).

The “Q8” base tube one :

- is a little bit smaller (a few milliters smaller)

  • does not have any screw hole at the bottom

They are compatible, as the LT1 was designed & patterned to use the same battery tube as the Sofirn Q8. ( to save manufacturing & sale cost) only the end cap is different as it has the tripod mount threaded hole on the LT1 version.

Yeah I'm sure pogo pins are super comfortable but really, if there's no standardized pad arrangement you'll have to make a custom pin holder from scratch for every light. Kinda defeats the purpose. I wouldn't really know how anyway, and would have to buy pogo pins first etc... So I just took out the LT1 driver (easy to do, just two screws) and clipped onto the microcontroller. However that's really annoying if you are developing a firmware while also not having an external power supply. My clip constantly fell off tho so I got really close to just soldering wires to the programming pads on the driver after the 30th time flashing it or something lol. But yeah, no idea how other people do it.

Edit: You only need 6 pins for programming, the LT1 kinda has a 3x3 pad arrangement. Are you sure the Emisar kit doesn't fit mechanically onto these pads? If it does, it'd be easy to make an adapter cable that just makes sure the pinout is correct.

You only need the six pads in the 2x3 array as labeled. Use some jumper wires to match the wiring between the programmer and the cable.

You'd be able to use the pogo pins as well, there's a pin header on that side as well after all. Just need to manufacture a cable that swaps signals according to the needed pad arrangement.

I'd expect six just loosely held wires to be a quite dodgy connection.

I meant using both sides – the programmer and the pogo pin PCB – and connect them with jumper wires. Or is Hank’s pogo pin adapter just 2+4 instead of “full” 4+4? In that case it can still be used – just omit ground or V+ and connect it directly to the flashlight.

Oh lol, sorry for the misunderstanding. Yeah that'd certainly work

Everything should be labeled. Here is a photo of the latest revision: https://i.redd.it/bzi7l3tlaui51.jpg

It is

RST V+ GND
SCK MISO MOSI

Does anyone have a rough estimate as to how long moonlight will last with 4x 3300mAh cells?