For 1), this is a totally different driver than a FET+1 - the main LED PWM is not PWM'ing output directly, like it does on 7135's. The very last level has both turned ON probably for a good reason that TK would know best.
For 2), I assume she custom tweaked the settings for the KR4, as she did for the Emisars. Driver and light are both important
If it was me, my best guess would be for your setup of a KR4 driver in a D4V2, I'd go with the KR4 settings.
For 1 - I tried it myself (disable 1st channel when turbo on and get very weak turbo - so that’s the reason
For 2 - I’ll tried both config entryes and see no difference, so I continue with KR4 config
Hi, i have not found another place for my question. If it’s wrong place i am so sorry, please move. So…
(Fireflies E07)
I measured my room temperature with Fluke… 21C°
I want to calibrate temperature so 21 clicks in current temperature mode.
I left the light overnight.
Next day i want to measure temperature and this is happen…
The first cycle of blinks are 21C° , the second cycle are 16… between the first cycle and second i do not shut off the light… the room temperature is 21
(FW3A)
Now I have set the temperature to 18 (room is 18C°)
Shut off the light…3 clicks than temperature mod… 21 blinks
Why?
is correct?
The thermal sensor must give me the room temperature or the light temperature?
I don’t understand so ask to community
Before you set room temp in the flashlight, you must do your best to get the flashlight at room temp - that means leaving it sit off for maybe an hour or 2 before setting the temp, and even when you do be sure the light never accidentally goes to a hi mode. What I do is to be sure to press&hold to turn it on at the lowest, ramp up very slightly - turn it off. This assures a lo output when doing the 3 clicks to get into voltage display, then 2C's from there.
Also the first blink of temp is not accurate - thought TK fixed this in a more recent Anduril, maybe just in Anduril2? Not sure. Let it blink out temp 2 times to get a good reading.
When I was calibrating my SC31pro, just holding it in my hand had the temp increase (on blinkout) 1° and then 2° in just a minute or two, so you need to do it fast. And keep the light overnight right next to a thermometer so you can see at a glance the temperature and let both equilibrate.
Next day or however long, go immediately to the temp blinkout and verify what it tells you vs the thermometer temp. If too different, then again, immediately do the calibration, and another temp blinkout to verify that it stuck.
21°C, holding it in a 37°C hand, it’ll warm up a few degrees very quickly.
Sorry, don't own a HL01, if I did, you'd have the info you want. Dunno if anyone did a tear down to provide details on the driver. Once we know the driver, could probably get the proper Anduril build for it. Unfortunately, Astrolux hasn't communicated well back the the community so TK probably isn't aware of the HL01's Anduril setup.
For the EDC18, I'm sure I have, or could make an Anduril cfg file for it. Just checked - back in April 2019 I did a custom config for Anduril 1.1 on the EDC18, adding support for the AUX/switch LED. I rewired the switch LED so Anduril controls it.
Sorry, was at work - home now. Reviewed and trying to recall (at my age, that can take a while...). This is what I did:
Removed R4 - was connected to pin #7 and does nothing anyway (from TK's experimenting with detecting input from the main LED)
Removed R10 - original hard wired resistor for the switch LED
solder in a 10K resistor, tomb-stoned -- be sure there's no contact to the "+" pad
solder a 30 AWG wire from pin#7 to the 10K
So, the end result, as shown, is I got a switch surface mount LED connected to MCU pin #7, with a 10K resistor in between, as shown:
Now Anduril has to be tweaked to support this hardware configuration. So this is the Anduril hwdef file I used, hwdef-EDC18.h:
#ifndef HWDEF_EDC18_H #define HWDEF_EDC18_H
/* BLF/TLF EDC18 driver layout * * The Lumintop EDC18 is basically the same driver as used in the FW3A, but has the e-switch mounted on the driver PCB. * For my custom EDC18, I removed the resistor off of PIN #7 for the "optic nerve" and wired a jumper to the switch LED * resistor - using 10K for now, and had to tombstone the resistor to break the connection to Batt+. This will allow * Anduril to control the switch LED from pin #7 * ---- * Reset -|1 8|- VCC * eswitch -|2 7|- switch LED (0402 under the switch with 10K 0603 resistor, removed (20K 0402) * FET -|3 6|- 7x7135 * GND -|4 5|- 1x7135 * ---- */
#define PWM_CHANNELS 3
// ... the modded EDC18 has aux switch LED on pin 7 #ifndef AUXLED_PIN #define AUXLED_PIN PB2 // pin 7 #endif
//----------------------------------------------------------------------------- // Thermal Settings //----------------------------------------------------------------------------- // optional, makes initial turbo step-down faster so first peak isn't as hot // the D4 runs very very hot, so be extra careful //#define THERM_HARD_TURBO_DROP
// stop panicking at about 3A or ~1100 lm, this light is a hotrod #define THERM_FASTER_LEVEL MAX_Nx7135
Well done! As i understand, we could only change power on led (low, high), turn it off and makes blinking? No way to show battery stats?
Is it difficult to remove driver?
In Anduril and Anduril 2, battery stats is blinked out on the switch LED 3C in the lower output setting
I've broken driver glue seals many many times - see below
I always start with the solder pick tool going through one of the LED wire holes. It usually fits in there fine with the wire, tight fit though. Trick is to feel around with the solder pick to be sure you are not on a component, closer to an outside edge the better. I'll try simply applying pressure first without the hammer. If that doesn't work, then the hammer comes out. Start with light taps initially - be as careful as you can, but sometimes heavier blows are needed
With the driver out, you can see the traces of glue around the edge. Also in this case, I did make some minor damage to the driver at around the R4 label below at the lower pin of the FET. Fortunately, the 4 pins on that side of the FET are redundant, so no damage. Of course this is fairly low risk for me because I could replace components, repair a driver like this one easily.