OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

The CULNM sold by L4P was also a low flux bin. Surprisingly Fireflies was able to source the 6Q, which is the 2nd highest flux bin for their new lights. I wonder if the emitter is not really discontinued. They are probably still making them as long as the purchase quantity is high enough.

You’ll want to use the CSLNM1 for the S2, to get similar throw on the CULPM1 it needs to be driven at 7.4 - 8A and that’s getting way to hot in such a small host

To use the CULPM1 in the S2 requires Simon’s fet driver and he won’t give any warranty for it. I’m running it in my C8+ with a Samsung 30Q which peaks at 7.4A, no higher. I get 1300 lumens and 1002m range. I only have a cheap meter so I like to subtract 50m off that measurement

I heard rumors a 18350 tube might become available for the C8+, which emitter would you recommend then when it releases?

Then you wouldn’t exactly want to run at 7+ amps with an 18350, you’ll be out of battery within minutes.

Both videos I made using both emitters

NM1 - 937m - 700 lumens

PM1 - 952m - 1300 lumens

The only difference is the PM1 has a wider beam

If you don’t want to run at 7+ amps with an 18350, wouldn’t the CULPM1 not be recommended for a C8+ 18350 tube? since it needs to be driven at 7.4 – 8A?

The way you have typed that sentence is confusing

Does CULPM1 need to be driven at 7.4 – 8A?

If so, would it not be recommended for C8+ with a 18350 tube?

You can run at less but that’ll reduce the range and lumens. 5A = approx 1080 lumens. If you want max range then the NM1 at 5A is best

I installed a Boost HX (CULPM1) into an old SD Mini yesterday, running Anduril2 on a FET+1 driver. I extended the LED wires a little, using 22 AWG, and both springs are bypassed. The SD Mini is about the same size and design as the MH20GT. I tested it with a few different batteries, trying to find the sweet spot in amps.

So far it seems like 8.75 to 9.25 amps results in the most output. The highest I tested was with a fully charged VTC5D and measured 10 amps with output about the same as 8.4 amps. I haven't seen any signs of the LED turning blue, or any other damage.

Best calibrated lumens at start was: 1440 lumens (1630 Tom E lumens)

Best throw measured, maybe 10-20 secs was: 80 kcd (566 meters)

I chose the SD Mini because:

  • had an "original" Luxeon V in it that had an annoying blue ring around the hot spot
  • it's in great shape, even though I EDC'ed it for quite a few months, maybe year or 2
  • it's a really nice quality compact thrower - good factory focus, excellent quality reflector, good AR glass
  • it was already modded with a FET+1 driver (not sure if a regulated 9 amp driver exists in this size)
  • has the lit switch so perfect for Anduril 2

I must say without any focusing done, the hot spot looks well defined. I used the original 5050 centering piece I had in there, so the 4040 Boost HX twists into position but seems to be pretty well centered, based on how the hotspot looks. I couldn't use Simon's 4040 centering pieces I bought because they are for 7 and 9 mm holes, and the SD Mini was about 7.8 mm.

I see djozz came to about the same conclusion, at https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/61873/9:

I bought these from Simon, BIN1:8RF-fcbB46-B5-6000, pre-mounted. This one was on a 20 mm MCPCB that had to be trimmed slightly to fit.

I found on some builds 6A hits just above 1300 at 30s, and others that need 7.5-8A. There’s a lot of variance with these.

Why doesn’t Simon’s 8A driver run at 8A? I understand resistance but on some L21A units it’s around 6.4A and others 7.2A, never higher with a topped off 40T, both running at 1300 lumens. Must be to doing with the led?

Came across a faulty driver that maxed at 3.97A, what would have failed?

Yes, I assume there are variances in the LED's, maybe though these are worse than most? I thought CREE's were binned pretty good.

I'm not familiar with Simon's 8A driver but the only right way to do these high amps (8-9A) with these LED's is buck/boost, and that's probably expensive. If his driver doesn't do boost, then the circuit resistance matters big time. You need to do everything right - spring bypasses, decent size LED wires, decent cell. I assume his driver probably has more internal resistance than a FET+1, so all those make a difference. Basically, you need higher amp capability in order for his driver to regulate or buck down.

The 40T is good but still you need to address the rest of it.

Btw, in the past when I used to buy drivers, we were always buying 4 amp, 5 amp, 6 amp rated drivers relatively cheap, and I could never get the rated amps out of them, ever... It's not surprising. 2-3 amps is easily do-able, above that, it's not easy.

Here's what Simon's HX looks like mounted in the SD Mini with the MCPCB trimmed, 22 AWG wires. The opening was more like 19 mm, and clearance had to made for the switch PCB wires

Anyone try the CELMM1 0.5mm^2 die yet? It seems it might be a good option for small low current lights or triple with carlco optic? I can find them on mouser, but can’t find any mcpcb to mount it to.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OSRAM-Opto-Semiconductors/KW-CELMM1TG-S3SA-ebvFfcbB46-8F8H?qs=wnTfsH77Xs6UbDlfbzhoTg%3D%3D

There’s a youtube video of a guy using it in a Convoy C8+. I’ve left a comment asking where to buy an mcpcb.

I wonder what would it do in GT Nano.

I like all of these ideas and have pondered the applications myself. I think a luxeon T mcpcb will be compatible.

Might be off center and electrical pads would be left partially soldered, but thermal pad would be 100% covered.

Is anyone else modding with the Boost HX? I've been pretty happy with it, planning on ordering more.

2 lights modded:

  • Lumintop SD Mini (23.5 mm I.D.): 81 kcd, ~1310 lumens (cal'ed at 30s)
  • Lumintop GT Mini: 332 kcd, ~1350 lumens (cal'ed at 30s)

In the SD Mini:

In the GT Mini, extra long 26 AWG wires:

For the GT Mini, Simon's 4040 centering ring with a 6.85 mm opening fits absolutely perfect!

It’s definitely a great choice, not too narrow either.

What other leds would fit the 4040 footprint? I’m trying to track down an mcpcb for the FT03.

I wonder why Convoy is only using 20mm size for the SBT90.2, wouldn’t it be better to use a larger size?

Yep, much better. Hank uses 30 mm's. For 4040, Boost HL and HX, Luxeon V. Not sure if any others.