Even if you don’t stare directly at them? I have my D4v2 tailstand on my bedside table so that the dim LEDs allow me to easily find and grab it, but I am absolutely not dazzled whatever the color, unless I point the light towards my face.
Re. the unavalaible colors at Low setting, I feel sorry because Cyan and Yellow are my favorite colors, but when set to dim they turn to Green. And leaving them on High is way too bright to have on a bedside table.
All colors of aux LEDs, except for red, will light up my whole room enough to get around. They will visibly light up the ceiling when tail standing on low. On my Ti versions with the lighted side switch’s I have to put the switch face down on the bedside table, or they will illuminate the room enough to bug me as well. I even ordered the warm version of the switch, which was better, but still too bright for sleeping once my eyes adjust. Red light is known to be the best for not interrupting sleep. That’s why most digital alarm clocks have a red display.
100% agree with this, I have to make sure there aren’t even any indicator lights on electronics shining when I go to bed or it lights up my whole room and I can’t sleep. Strangely, moon or artificial light outside rarely bothers me unless very bright.
I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?
Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.
I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It's beam's tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it's about the best beam/tint combo out there.
The difference in brightness will be completely unnoticeable. The 5000K might seem a bit higher output since higher color temps are a bit harsher, but even on paper they’re extremely close in output and the 5000K won’t actually illuminate anything better.
TK (or any owner) - that switch on the D4V2, can you describe it?
Is it similar to what Manker uses in the U1?
Theirs is a soft rubber dome (which can come loose),
over a beryllium/copper dome,
over a pair of contact pads.
If the dome does come off, the beryllium thing gets lost and the switch is done for
and because og Manker’s assembly, you cannot replace it, and probably could not find the right part.
I relay enjoyed using this light, but now for some unknown reason the switch has stopped responding reliably, sometimes it works and the light functions, but most of the time no response, checked it, made sure it wasn’t in muggle mode, re set it but still, click click nothing - most of the time
Emailed Intl- outdoors and had a reply offering to sell a replacement switch as its out of warranty - however the bezel is on tight and wont be easy to remove without causing damage