TK's Emisar D4V2 review

All colors of aux LEDs, except for red, will light up my whole room enough to get around. They will visibly light up the ceiling when tail standing on low. On my Ti versions with the lighted side switch’s I have to put the switch face down on the bedside table, or they will illuminate the room enough to bug me as well. I even ordered the warm version of the switch, which was better, but still too bright for sleeping once my eyes adjust. Red light is known to be the best for not interrupting sleep. That’s why most digital alarm clocks have a red display.

I got D4V2 with KR4 driver and can hear squeaking sound when FET is in use (constant or with strobes or lightning mode), wondering is it normal?

100% agree with this, I have to make sure there aren’t even any indicator lights on electronics shining when I go to bed or it lights up my whole room and I can’t sleep. Strangely, moon or artificial light outside rarely bothers me unless very bright.

I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?

Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.

There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.

I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It's beam's tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it's about the best beam/tint combo out there.

BEST ANSWER! :smiley:

Thank you for your answers!

Still thinking, but I’m inclining to 4000K, not 5000K, even though they both not ho cri and I can go to “more bright” 5000K

The difference in brightness will be completely unnoticeable. The 5000K might seem a bit higher output since higher color temps are a bit harsher, but even on paper they’re extremely close in output and the 5000K won’t actually illuminate anything better.

TK (or any owner) - that switch on the D4V2, can you describe it?

Is it similar to what Manker uses in the U1?
Theirs is a soft rubber dome (which can come loose),
over a beryllium/copper dome,
over a pair of contact pads.

If the dome does come off, the beryllium thing gets lost and the switch is done for
and because og Manker’s assembly, you cannot replace it, and probably could not find the right part.

How similar is it, to that?

wle.

Hello,

Does anybody know the dimensions of the driver cavity ? (Diameter and height clearance for components)

I relay enjoyed using this light, but now for some unknown reason the switch has stopped responding reliably, sometimes it works and the light functions, but most of the time no response, checked it, made sure it wasn’t in muggle mode, re set it but still, click click nothing - most of the time

Answering myself :

  • driver Ø = 22.0mm
  • driver cavity Ø = 22.3mm
  • components cavity Ø = 19.5mm
  • components cavity height = 2.7mm

I got one in cyan, it looks very nice, this is my first D4v2, the tint is not very good though (SST-20 4000K):

Lvl1 duv 0.0047
Lvl3 duv 0.0049
Lvl7@30s duv 0.0044
(I didn’t test turbo)

They’re probably not using FA3 bins anymore.

Damn, i have 2 sst-20 d4v2 in the mail .

Why was the short tube made so you can’t use the lanyard ring?

Nvmd….wrong thread!!! :slight_smile:

Well was fun while it lasted, what was an intermittent issue is now permanent - the button is completely dead and non responsive :frowning:

My KR4/KR1 tubes work with the lanyard ring, so I think it was fixed at some point.

Emailed Intl- outdoors and had a reply offering to sell a replacement switch as its out of warranty - however the bezel is on tight and wont be easy to remove without causing damage :frowning:

You’ll probably need a new switch boot, too.

!

! looks like its irreparable. mangled the switch boot and a little red switch fell out