What did you mod today?

Here’s a couple things I threw together for using the attiny412 with a clicky driver. Honestly, I feel like the 1-Series is a lot easier to code for - the register names are more like English names instead of 4-5 character abbreviations.

  • Very basic testing firmware that shows setting up PWM and using the ADC to check an off-time capacitor (OTC). Link
  • Cobbled-together (but tested and working) firmware with bits off Star (JohnnyC), RampingIOS (Tom E), and some custom stuff (myself) that can be setup with or without memory. It has voltage monitoring and a basic temperature control algorithm. Link

Note… I had to use an OTC instead of our neat “noinit” trick because the 1-Series memory doesn’t seem to decay for upwards of 45 minutes. That’s way too long to be useful for “short press” detection.

Awesome. I’ll be playing around with this soon. Thank you very much.

Anduril2 on a Sofirn SP10S? Sure, why not! Made a PIC12 to AttinyX16 adapter board.

Note: for the voltage divider, I accidentally picked a pin on ADC1 instead of ADC0. Rather than hacking Anduril to switch between the two ADC’s (temperature sensor is on ADC0), I just ran an airwire. Not great, but it works.

I currently have a klarus mi7 ti pulled apart and I’ve been pondering how I’m going to proceed. I’d love some details.

Did these lights have a voltage dividing network for LVP stock and you just utilized that?

Does the boost circuit run completely independently from the tiny? If it’s always on have you measured quiescent current?

Any idea what boost controller is used?

Seriously epic stuff. Well done.

gchart, That awesome!

Thanks guys!

@Bourbon Guy: I can get you more details later, but it already had a voltage divider network. I think it’s a 2-stage boost. A small one is dedicated to powering the MCU and a second larger one for driving the LED. I haven’t measured the quiescent current yet but I will when I get the final config settings dialed in.

Great work gchart. I know you have spent a lot of time on this and thanks for sharing.
So is this the first modified diver to work with a AA and Anduril?

To my knowledge, yes. I did have to add in extra code to handle the dual voltages.

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You guys are the next level of flashlight modders. :open_mouth: Amazing accomplishment. :+1:
There are guys here who can follow in your footsteps, so you are raising the level of flashlight options and fun.
I love watching your modifications ‘gchart’ , Thank You for sharing your hard work :+1:
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gchart - this is remarkable! If you have time, I think we need to go over this in detail in the BLF SP10S thread.

Just got a Nitecore TINI 2, swapped out the stock emitters for 2x 4000k LH351D’s. Looks excellent, very happy with it now.

FW3A w/ 1x Osram Red Flat (as secondary) and 2x Samsung LH351D (as primary) flashed with Anduril 2

Not sure what to think of this one. I don’t like the Mountain PCB with the XQ-E pads for secondary because it makes a hideous looking rorschach test beam (I think it’s a bat). This is definitely better. The Osram beam is pretty even, albeit a little square up close. This is with 10511. The white LH351D is fine with only two, looks round except for the usual spikey edges all triples have. Also wanted to give Anduril 2 a try since I had to reflash this thing anyways, two birds one stone. May try XP-E2 far red to see what a domed beam looks like if I ever take it apart again.


Hideous test setup. 18650 battery holder, separate e switch, alligator clips, etc.

1x7135 trace cut and negative secondary wire (in orange):

MCPCB mods. 2x traces cut and LEDs reversed to create a second negative pad for Osram and common positive for everything else. (keep in mind this will be different for ALL other boards besides LED4Power)

Always clean up

Wired

Hex file with new ramp table and latest (as of today) Anduril 2: google drive link

special thanks to staticx57(?)

Nice work on this one!

Outstanding!

Q: How can you store 23 lights on your desk without them occasionally becoming dominos?

A: 3D printed holder of course.

I don’t own a 3D printer (I sent my file to Treatstock) and i’ve never designed any print before this so i’m sure this could be done way better but it was fun to learn. The AAA size lights came out a bit tight but all the rest fit perfect. I added clip “grooves” on some to support deep carry clips or face up/down. They are in deep enough I can pick up the whole thing 45 degrees and nothing comes out. I chose “translucent red” just to see how well light could shine through it in case I wanted to make a fancy version 2 or see if I left a light on. It’s not really translucent at all it just looks like flaked red which is fine.

Oh also, any ideas for a version 2?

It could have been flat with just sunken holes but I feel like it would look more like a block of wood that way? idk

I also considered trying to countersink a few holes to allow forward clickies to stand but I decided that could be done with a drill after plus I have very few small fwd clickies.

I beveled the outside of the holes but I couldn’t figure out how to easily bevel the inside diameter. If I didn’t go with the raised design I would have for sure done this.

It may be a bit dense/crowded?

It might be cool to have them be smaller but modular and have puzzle piece type attachments for separate trays 18650/21700, AA/16340, AAA, etc.

That gives me an idea for how to do this really cheap - problem is, I don’t have large enough drill bits, so it gets expensive again…

FYI, this was $24.63 shipped and that’s with this weird color and me probably creating the most complex/not-optimized print.

Working with wood you would have to like chisel out the clip slots or forego that functionality. IMO having them fit tight in the holes and creating clip slots was worth it.

@contactcr Very nice! What design software did you use?

My “mod” today is inspired from my entry in this year’s Old Lumens contest. While that touch lamp is cool, it’s really not feasible for my kids to use and it’s not very reproducible.

So I designed a new housing with Fusion360 and printed it on my 3D printer using PETG (after a couple revisions to get all the dimensions just right). I designed a simple circuit board in Eagle and sent it off to Oshpark using their After Dark service. I’m also using an off-the-shelf TP4056 charging board with protection features.

Put that together and I’ve got a nice compact very simple on/off touch lamp with built in charging.




I used TinkerCAD which I guess is AutoDesk’s free online tool.

I’ll share it when I modify the AAA slots in case someone else wants the same design or wants to modify it themselves.