Just a quick question about early versions of the 12-mode bastard biscotti drivers. I had a ∅17mm driver ordered from FastTech on July 9th sitting in a drawer which I just used for a “dormant” build aaand… holy sh1t! The thing seemed to work right at first, but started misbehaving nearly from the start doing all sorts of glitches: incorrectly changing modes or not in any way I could discern, random strobes, and right now it just doesn't powers on. Already dismantled the S2+ flashlight in which it is installed for inspection a couple times, everything else inside is in full working order. Is the software so terribly bugged?
when in battery check mode, there are some slightly different behavior: on some lights, the main light will stay lit (like Moon mode level), while it blinks the battery level (1-5 blinks), but on some other lights, the main light is off while blinking the battery level.
- when in default group 1 (5-modes), the 1st level and 2nd level brightness appear to be quite similar in visual brightness (although this could be due to the LED and current applied to the LED)
I have purchased LEDs from the factory. Each of the 4000K and 5000K color temperatures will be produced at 500PCS. I specifically require XY to be below the black body locus.
I was engaged in the packaging of LEDs in 2008 and deployed phosphors. As long as a very small amount of 660 phosphor is added to the phosphors, high color rendering LEDs can be produced.
It may be because the O-ring is too thin or the gasket is too thin. I have some 1.3mm thickness O-rings, if you need them, please send your address to me via private message.
The earlier version only had the bug that the group was not saved, which has now been fixed. I feel that your drive problem is caused by poor contact. But if you need it, I can send you a new driver.
My estimate is that the SFT70 is a great high output long thrower led. A bit smaller die and bit less output and much cheaper than the SBT90.2 and with comparable throw.
With the XHP35 HI version of the K1 there is certainly be a way to use Anduril on a boost driver (granted it may be designed specifically for that task). Wouldn’t whatever method is used for the firmware coding to run on it be open-source as well?
Do you find lacking the high power boost drivers league?
Lets believe it can be fruitful, and fruitful it will be. High power switching drivers can be done, even affordably.
One thing I find @#$% in this respect, since drivers need low voltage cut-off to ensure cells don't get over-discharged, is setting it too high. I find no reason to set cut-off any higher than 2.5V. This in part is because the driver does not see the actual battery voltage, senses and sees it once it goes through switch and springs (which cause noticeable drops in high modes). Even “high current” springs are a bad joke, imho.
Group wasn't saved? And what is the default group, number one?
I have a couple more of these early “biscuit” drivers, one of them is a ∅20mm still unused. The other ∅17mm ones I did modify by carefully removing the solder mask on top of the outer ground ring, on the component side, hoping to enhance heat transfer.
The aforementioned ∅17mm driver worked right while being tested with my PSU. Don't know what to say right now, other than I should have ordered 4-mode ones…
Interesting option but too low power for SFT70 or Getian LEDs.
I do.
Please note that Andruil steps down when voltage gets low. And keeps stepping down as long as it can keep voltage above the threshold. At low currents voltage drop in the host and the driver becomes negligible.
This is much better than artificially lowering the threshold.
I believe this to be true as well. I feel 5-7mm² is the ideal emitter area for high power throwers with practical/manageable heat generation. I hope the open source, high voltage driver space gets more attention. A budget friendly variant of loneoceans GXB172 would be ideal. Maybe increasing it to 22mm (66% more pcb area) would allow some cost savings.
