I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?
Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.
There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.
I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It's beam's tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it's about the best beam/tint combo out there.
BEST ANSWER! 
Thank you for your answers!
Still thinking, but I’m inclining to 4000K, not 5000K, even though they both not ho cri and I can go to “more bright” 5000K
The difference in brightness will be completely unnoticeable. The 5000K might seem a bit higher output since higher color temps are a bit harsher, but even on paper they’re extremely close in output and the 5000K won’t actually illuminate anything better.
TK (or any owner) - that switch on the D4V2, can you describe it?
Is it similar to what Manker uses in the U1?
Theirs is a soft rubber dome (which can come loose),
over a beryllium/copper dome,
over a pair of contact pads.
If the dome does come off, the beryllium thing gets lost and the switch is done for
and because og Manker’s assembly, you cannot replace it, and probably could not find the right part.
How similar is it, to that?
wle.
Hello,
Does anybody know the dimensions of the driver cavity ? (Diameter and height clearance for components)
I relay enjoyed using this light, but now for some unknown reason the switch has stopped responding reliably, sometimes it works and the light functions, but most of the time no response, checked it, made sure it wasn’t in muggle mode, re set it but still, click click nothing - most of the time
Answering myself :
I got one in cyan, it looks very nice, this is my first D4v2, the tint is not very good though (SST-20 4000K):
Lvl1 duv 0.0047
Lvl3 duv 0.0049
Lvl7@30s duv 0.0044
(I didn’t test turbo)
They’re probably not using FA3 bins anymore.
Damn, i have 2 sst-20 d4v2 in the mail .
Why was the short tube made so you can’t use the lanyard ring?
Nvmd….wrong thread!!! 
Well was fun while it lasted, what was an intermittent issue is now permanent - the button is completely dead and non responsive 
My KR4/KR1 tubes work with the lanyard ring, so I think it was fixed at some point.
Emailed Intl- outdoors and had a reply offering to sell a replacement switch as its out of warranty - however the bezel is on tight and wont be easy to remove without causing damage
You’ll probably need a new switch boot, too.
!
! looks like its irreparable. mangled the switch boot and a little red switch fell out
You need to get the retainer ring out, then grab the cables with some fine tweezers and resolder the button PCB. Obvioulsy you need a new switch boot, too.
I have one of those gold D4V2.
You’re in luck: you got the flush retaining ring so the light should be repairable. The flush retaining ring is removable. Unlike the raised retaining ring which I found impossible to budge.
Next step is to desolder all the wires to the aux board and the star. Only attempt this if you have soldering skills and a fine tip for your soldering iron available. The wires to the aux LEDs are tiny. Before desoldering, take a picture so you can make sure to get every wire back to the right bondpad when reassembling.
After desoldering, remove the aux board and the star. Then insert a toothpick or other tool into the wire whole and push the driver out of the head. Once it is partially out you should be able to access to tiny wires which go to contacts on the underside of the red switch. Assuming those bondpads didn’t rip off the switch, soldering the switch wires back on. Reverse the process to reassemble.
Notes:
Check out this very interesting mod where you can keep the auxiliary lights on by using the reflashing kit. Posted on Re-edit:
