I know these leds,Unfortunately shipping cost are excessive.
There aren’t cheap options for buy these CRI 90 leds from China I think
To be honest I don’t think it really matters. Not every light needs to be maxed out on lumens. Seriously. Those on this particular lights interest list are ‘IN’ for a light with max 500 or so lumens. Want more from it? Mod it or buy any other of the heap of flashlights available with skin scalding 30 second lumen values.
Just planting a seed here…
Recessed side switch.
A diffuser for IF25(A) would be welcomed accessory.
Also an 18350 body tube for LT1/Q8
Also one for the SP36 :innocent:
I don’t see the demand for this beyond a handful a people. 18350s are hard to come by, button top 18350s even more so. You’d be sacrificing 2/3rds of the run time for a couple hundred grams. If it’s weight you’re after, you can run the lt1 with just one cell.
I do like that stubby look though 
Has anyone tried the Sofirn cree xml2 weapon mounted light yet? It looks nearly identical to the tlr-1. I cant find any reviews.
would gladly buy SP70 complete with short battery tube, smo reflector, sbt90.2 preferably with narsilm
Id like the SC31 Pro in Blue, Tan, and Green. I’d also like a SP40 Pro with Anduril
New packaging:
I wish they had used an OP reflector for the SC31 Pro. The SST-40 has bad tint shift and looks like ass in a smooth reflector. I swapped in an LH351D for a better beam. I feel like an OP reflector stock would have made the SST-40 tolerable. The reflector from the FC11 is OP and the right size, but the opening for the LED is smaller so it won’t work.
An SP40 with andruil would be incredible!
Yesterday I just saw that new diffuser on Sofirnlight.com for SP36:
https://sofirnlight.com/diffuser-for-sp36-sp36-blf-anduril-sp36-pro-p0174.html
It is not very easy to remove SP36 reflector. There are two screws which hold it under the head. You must first remove PCB of driver. So it not will be very easy swap. I have SP36 host when Sofirn sell them, so I can see whole construction easily. Screw in the middle hold MCPCB to the reflector.
Received the TF84, having only seen one youtube review for it.
Firstly, the tint is very nice as well as direct access to turbo and low.
Overall, it’s a nice light, but was wondering if they would consider a few changes in v2.
Change the hold to turn off to one click to turn off - it’s simpler
Change tail pedal switch to instant low instead of strobe. If you really insist on keeping the strobe keep that function in tactical mode, but in daily mode please remove it; i honestly have no need for strobe.
Also, i do think the lumens are bit low, compared to the size of the head. I think it could perhaps be driven to closer to 2000 lumens for turbo?
Also here https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/56105 yo can see in that review X-ray image of SP36 :smiling_imp:
Not sure where this is coming from. Both my Sc31pro examples have a wonderful, creamy smooth beam. Maybe not quite on par with a malkoff but VERY nice. I had a hard time picking which one to swap out for a LH351D- which is a perfect choice for these lights!
I used a 16mm board but had to grind off a lot to clear a screw head. What size board did you use?
I used a 16mm board, but I removed the screw first. My issue with the 5000k SST-40 in this light is at high settings the spill is almost purple, while the hotspot is a nice white. I think OP would blend the beam better. Also the hotspot has artifacts around the edges. Maybe it’s the SST-40’s larger size. The LH351D had a nicer round hotspot without odd edges. Again the OP reflector seems like it’d be better for this LED in this light. I really just like OP reflectors on any smaller lights like this. Smooth reflectors for larger throwy lights like C8s and up make a lot more sense.
So you removed the screw. Any side effects or do you know why its there in the first place? I figured it must be there for a reason?
The stock MCPCB has a notch that the screw head sits in, it keeps the MCPCB from rotating when assembling the light. It doesn’t hold anything together and can be removed with a small philips head screwdriver. My Sofirn SC31 Pro,SP31, and Wurkkos FC11 are all assembled the same way. Two of the screws were easy to remove. On my old SP31, the screw wouldn’t budge and the head stripped out while trying to remove it, so I drilled it flush with the shelf.