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Yes, the removal of STEP file export was a shot over the bow warning that it will be permanently removed in the future. So after a year of watching Youtube videos and practicing drawing models and i was just starting programming 3D models, Autodesk did what i was afraid they might do and kill it. The STEP export will be removed in the future, so i deleted it and loaded Freecad.
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Here’s the files for 3D printing/editing of my design. I modified the AAA slots to be a bit wider than what I printed so I haven’t tested this exact one but it should be fine. There’s always sand paper
I like TinkerCAD but sometime its simplicity can actually make things slower or more tedious. Here’s a brief example of how you could quickly create something like that in Fusion360 (free version) in case you ever feel like something a bit more powerful. I’m sure there are some even better methods than what I show here, but hey… I’m still learning too
Thanks for taking the time to make this. At least for this example this program seems only incrementally harder while having a lot more features. I will definitely try it out for future designs
I’m using for a long time fusion 360, and i made so much complicated project’s with this software. I think they should add some mathematics stuff like parabolic function.
Brain transplants on a batch of Sofirn TK70’s and Convoy H1’s. They all got RampingIOS (D4 V2 UI) via an attiny412. Drops right in place of the stock MCU.
This is what the hobby probably needs more of. Direct-swap MCUs so we can fix the firmware on lights more easily than having to come up with an entire replacement driver.
Of course the next question is: Who is gonna put Anduril on a Zebralight?
That UI sounds reasonable to me… The problem is, everyone has different tastes, and it’s frequently for me the 100% make-or-break reason to carry (or not) a light. Driver swaps are nice and everything, but there’s only a few of us that are able to swap more than the basic “easily moddable” Convoy-types. When I see a T-shaped driver, or the side-switch on the driver board, or odd driver shapes, or integrated charging, I’m usually out of luck for improving the UI.
Yeah sure mounting a MCU plus adapter-board isn't something everyone can do, but it's definitely a few steps simpler than custom-designing drivers for all the weird crap out there.
Zebralight UI seems good (although I find the old one kind of backwards, but workable, and would re-program the newer lights slightly)
Modern Olight UI works for me (the older UI on my S15 Ti is a bit odd, but workable)
Thrunite T10Tv2's UI works for me
I love the basics of Anduril/RampingIOS - there's lots of debate about the more advanced bits so I won't even address those here
And I love a good L-M-H with no memory for my clickies.
But man, so many brands just get it so wrong. Sofirn with its "you can start in moonlight but you can't get there from anywhere else", my Thorfires with their horribly slow, non-linear ramping. A NEBO light I own, which is fortunately not-bright enough that I just leave it on full brightness at all times and deal with it. It's a house-light for the muggles to grab lol. Wuben and Skilhunt keep getting it wrong, although I think Skilhunt is finally getting better on some recent models. Wuben even has two-switch models they couldn't get right!
I hate to derail this thread into a UI discuss, but as much as I love my Wuben TO50R, I don’t pick it up as much as I should because it always takes me a while to remember how to use it. Hold down this button? Nope. Click that one? Nope. Double click the first one? Nope. Argh!
3.2A linear in a AA sized host w/ Anduril2 is not something you just post a video about. This is straight up the pinnacle of modding for this light/size and needs more details
edit; I left it unspoken but lets just put it out there. WELL DONE!