Nice! Here are the 3 I have coming. Was very tough to decide
Color Black
Switch back light color Red
CH1 (9 inner LEDs) E21A, R9050 Warm White, 2000K
CH2 (3 outer LEDs) SST-20 Deep Red, 660nm
2)
Color Dark Grey
Switch back light color Green
CH1 (9 inner LEDs) E21A, R9080 Warm White, 2700K
CH2 (3 outer LEDs) W1 Yellow (Osram KY CSLNM1.FY)
3)
Color Green
Switch back light color Cyan
CH1 (9 inner LEDs) Neutral White – XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K
CH2 (3 outer LEDs) SST-20 Deep Red, 660nm
Thank you Rayoui. That’s a great way to get a feeling for choosing the right tint. The 2000K / 2200K tints will be great to substitute any real candles in one‘s living room. Just fire up the candle mode in K9.3 and enjoy the cozy atmosphere. :LOVE:
You could do a mix with 3x2000K and a higher CCT. For example with 4500K -I get 2269K duv 0.0060 (calculated from independent measurements at 1.25A per LED). In my opinion a negative duv makes warm temperatures look so much better.
Edit : used the wrong measurements, 2506K duv –0.0094 is the right result (makes more sense), so a lower CCT than 4500K should be used, 3500 (~2350K duv –0.0040) or 2700K (~2180K duv –0.0016).
That’s certainly an option. I might do this if I decide to pick up another one.
I have an FW3A that I mixed 2700K, 3500K and 5000K LH351D and it resulted in a nice 3600K combined CCT and a beautiful tint. I want to do something similar at some point with a KR4. I just hate messing with the aux board and those tiny wires.
I’d also be up for another run of 2200K. They had great tint, and the difference between 2000K was noticeable. I’d probably buy another K9.3 and KR-4 with those emitters. I also reset the W/B, if you don’t mind to 2200K to show off some of that rosy tint of the 2200K E21A. I believe the 2000K from Hank’s second batch was on/slightly above the BBL while the 2200K was BBL.