Single tint version is also very good for many uses, but I can agree, that a variant with ToyKeeper’s tint mixing UI could be another highlight product for FireFlies.
I’d personally suggest these changes (product idea for a lantern):
- adding 3500K to the tint choices
- making the tint mixing between 2000K and 3500K - this could make it extra moody, and mixed tints would not be too rosy (staying close to the BBL is better, extreme negative duv values are similarly unattractive like significantly positive duv values).
- adding a trapezoid thread to the flashlight bezel on the outer side, and making a diffusor (including a mirror-like element on its inner top side to redistribute light more horizontally), which could be screwed onto the flashlight head using that thread.
keeping the compatibility with the current battery tube, but also letting usage of a newly designed 3×21700 battery tube (batteries should be contacted well, even if they are flat tops - double spring on the bottom and separate metal disc contacts /with at least 6mm diameter/ on top)
The 3×21700 battery tube and the screw-on diffusor could make this flashlight into an even better than BLF LT1 lantern.
I would love to see the same 21700 tube with a slightly larger head maybe the size of the E07 with 70 or so E21A to achieve 12k plus lumens with even more efficient and brighter regulated levels.
Isn’t cost of 70 emitters going to be very expensive? However I think I prefer something like 32 2000K + 32 5000K E21A with tint ramping, 21700 battery, 6A for each channel, it will be the most ideal flashlight.
Yea it will be expensive but many who want the absolute best will be willing to pay. Double channel would be great but I’m just thinking how difficult it would be for the person flowing the emitters. They will have to be installed in checkerboard fashion for uniform mixing. Seems tedious and high chance for error.
Same but also with tint ramping. I wonder if the code could be modified to push the LEDs harder. 8000 Lumens should be possible with 21 of these. I doubt it’s running in direct drive as the vf is way too low for that. Someone should test for PWM at max output.
Just tried the USB-C charging and I think the body could use some revision here. Many of my cables would only just barely fit in the hole and seemed to not fit snugly. If it were widened by a couple millimeters I think it’d be a lot more compatible.