Sorry to hear about this. I hope you are doing ok and that the damage will not affect you too terribly much.
Sorry to hear that :zipper_mouth_face:
I hope you and your stuff are safe ! I’m sure we’ll be here to fill the orders when the store opens 
Take your time and stay safe :+1:
Hope that store will be open soon and no damage to people and stuff.
I am facing problem with LD-4a driver in S2+ host with nichia 219C led. I set driver to 4Amp constant current and I get about minute or two runtime till internal temperature protection shuts down the light. By then light is about 50-60 degrees C hot.
Manual says about using silicone sheets inside driver pill.
Will these silicone cubes from kaidomain work? http://kaidomain.com/S024143-DIY-1cm-x-0_5cm-Thermal-Conduction-Silicone-Rubber-Cubes-5-pcs
That will work. I had a similar problem in a S3 host. Squeeze as much in as possible.
I just hope that combination of 219C and 4 amp constant current is not a problem. Will order these cubes and try.
Thanks
I think the diffrence between 219C Vf and cell voltage is too high. And the issue will be more pronounced at lower modes because of less cell voltage sag.
I experienced that issue with a Luxeon V. And with the 3V XHP50.2 it was even more pronounced. Then I tried XP-L HI, No issues at all…
The silicone cubes cured the problem for the Luxeon V but the XHP50.2 Vf is so low that it still caused the driver to overheat after about 5min on lower modes with a fresh cell.
Thanks Kevin for answering to these questions to dropman.
3-4Amps is usually where power dissipation in driver is max.
Adding some thermally conductive material like those silicone cubes helps a lot, but just putting piece of cube in pill wouldn't help much if cube is not in good contact with both pill bottom and fet top surface.
This means amount of silicone pieces should be such that you feel slight pressure during driver retaining ring installation.
Other solutions is to use lower power/higher capacity batteries (30Q doesn't make sense for 4Amps), not using spring bypasses etc.
Does anyone have a link to the UI for the LD-A4 driver? I just discovered I have 2 of these drivers tucked away and never used them. I’m trying to figure out how to set the amperage on the driver. Thanks!
Google: ld-4 datasheet
and click on the first link.
led4power and Yantar. Thank you so much!
My convoy l2 with a ld-4 is acting weird.
If I want to change modes it flashes once and it remains the same brightness level but after one second it drops power, or increases if you go from low to high.
I looks like I only have 2 modes now.
I’m not sure what the exact driver is, I also have a lighted tailcap installed.
Seems like you are in programming mode… do 10 to 12 consecutive half taps, the light will then turn off. Should be fine then. I highly recommend reading the manual thoroughly.
Does it stay in programming mode even after disconnecting the power?
Haven’t tried it so will do.
No, that is now you enter/exit programming mode.
Yes, it will still be in configuration mode after turning it off/disconnecting power.
Read the data sheet linked above ^ and the added side notes (extremely helpful side notes).
Only way to exit is to click out, or leave the light on/idle for 30 seconds,
Thanks guys that did the trick.
Would’ve never thought it was in programming mode. Haven’t touched that light in maybe a year.
Even after reading, although it was a quick read, the datasheet I wouldn’t have thought about it.
You can enable Configuration menu password, this will prevent unwanted entering into config. menu after 10+ half-clikcs (with configuration menu password enabled, only possible way to enter into config. menu is to enter 1865 password via clicks).
I recently put together a light with LD-4B , 3up Mosled and one of these tail switches…
The light is acting only in single mode and I can’t seem to get into programming. Any suggestions on what i’ve done wrong?
Is led4power webshop going be online sometime ?