That UI sounds reasonable to me… The problem is, everyone has different tastes, and it’s frequently for me the 100% make-or-break reason to carry (or not) a light. Driver swaps are nice and everything, but there’s only a few of us that are able to swap more than the basic “easily moddable” Convoy-types. When I see a T-shaped driver, or the side-switch on the driver board, or odd driver shapes, or integrated charging, I’m usually out of luck for improving the UI.
Yeah sure mounting a MCU plus adapter-board isn't something everyone can do, but it's definitely a few steps simpler than custom-designing drivers for all the weird crap out there.
Zebralight UI seems good (although I find the old one kind of backwards, but workable, and would re-program the newer lights slightly)
Modern Olight UI works for me (the older UI on my S15 Ti is a bit odd, but workable)
Thrunite T10Tv2's UI works for me
I love the basics of Anduril/RampingIOS - there's lots of debate about the more advanced bits so I won't even address those here
And I love a good L-M-H with no memory for my clickies.
But man, so many brands just get it so wrong. Sofirn with its "you can start in moonlight but you can't get there from anywhere else", my Thorfires with their horribly slow, non-linear ramping. A NEBO light I own, which is fortunately not-bright enough that I just leave it on full brightness at all times and deal with it. It's a house-light for the muggles to grab lol. Wuben and Skilhunt keep getting it wrong, although I think Skilhunt is finally getting better on some recent models. Wuben even has two-switch models they couldn't get right!
I hate to derail this thread into a UI discuss, but as much as I love my Wuben TO50R, I don’t pick it up as much as I should because it always takes me a while to remember how to use it. Hold down this button? Nope. Click that one? Nope. Double click the first one? Nope. Argh!
3.2A linear in a AA sized host w/ Anduril2 is not something you just post a video about. This is straight up the pinnacle of modding for this light/size and needs more details
edit; I left it unspoken but lets just put it out there. WELL DONE!
I have a Manker E11 that could get one of those drivers
Love that light, but the UI is not what I’d desire. But I have no skills to do something similar or whatsoever…
It is possible to get hex file to fw3a from you (Contactcr)? I can’t send you PM (some BLF problems).
And i’ve got some attiny question to you (gchart) can you write me an email, because of this problems?
Fet+1 into a Wuben E05 with a 4000k SST20. I sanded down a Mountain Electronics e-switch board and 3D printed a spacer that supports the switch. The switch board is then epoxied to the spacer. Really liking this one. I’ll be building a couple more.
I got a attiny 412 swapped on to one of the convoy t2 boost drivers I have been messing with. Huge thanks to gchart for sharing his clicky firmware. I tweaked it to pwm on pin PA2 to match the layout of the convoy driver and I increased the PWM frequency as that allows for a lower low mode on these drivers. The OTC is across pins 7 and 8.
After the pic was taken I put a jumper across the 0.2 ohm resistor that sits between the fet and led -.
With the resistor jumper in place I took current measurements at the LED (nichia 319) and got 1.8 mA on low and 1.01 A on high. I used a cheap meter with standard leads so actual current in normal use is probably slightly higher. Freshly charged energizer NiMH.
Welcome to the AVR 1-Series club. Glad to have a another member on board. May I ask, which programmer did you use? And let me know if you think there is anything I should add to my guide thread.