What did you mod today?

Now there’s thinking outside the box on tricky switch situations! Nice job. I might have to employ that trick sometime.

loving the warm floody stepless rotary

lubricated control ring, and did lots of twists
got the dial turning nice and smooth, no more gritty Ti

added CRX glow gasket

added Sapphire Lens :heart_eyes:
(no blue AR coating)

great Golden Hour light!

I got a attiny 412 swapped on to one of the convoy t2 boost drivers I have been messing with. Huge thanks to gchart for sharing his clicky firmware. I tweaked it to pwm on pin PA2 to match the layout of the convoy driver and I increased the PWM frequency as that allows for a lower low mode on these drivers. The OTC is across pins 7 and 8.

After the pic was taken I put a jumper across the 0.2 ohm resistor that sits between the fet and led -.

With the resistor jumper in place I took current measurements at the LED (nichia 319) and got 1.8 mA on low and 1.01 A on high. I used a cheap meter with standard leads so actual current in normal use is probably slightly higher. Freshly charged energizer NiMH.

Awesome!! Nice job :beer:

Welcome to the AVR 1-Series club. Glad to have a another member on board. May I ask, which programmer did you use? And let me know if you think there is anything I should add to my guide thread.

I used the 416 xplained nano board.

Swapped to a LH351D 5000k 90 cri. Measured at the led with the same crappy setup I get 2 mA on low and 1.2 A on high but drops quickly. I’ll do some torture testing to see if the bypassed resistor becomes a problem but I think it’s excellent output for a single AA boost driver.

I have some suggestions and questions. I’ll be PMing you when I have some more time. Thanks again!

Something simple:

Convoy C8, Kaidomain 5A driver H17A, Osram KW CSLNM1.TG 6N-ebzB46-65 White 5600K - 6000K

I took measurements:

Astrolux FT03/SST40@5000K/HLY-26650/5000 mAh - 15940 lx @4m - 255040 cd - 1010 m

Convoy C8/Sofirn unprotected 18650/3000 mAh - 15000 lx @4m - 240000 cd - 980 m

Springs are not bridged (tho the Astrolux has double springs) and I cannot measure current.

Both values appear a little high. Measured distance precisely and intensity with a Benetech GM1020.

I just did a Wuben E05 with a fet+1, but I’ve been on a real boost driver kick lately. This is a E05 with one of the red convoy T2 boost drivers I have been experimenting with recently. A lot of the basic boost drivers you can buy are based on the PAM 2803 boost controller which lists a quiescent current of 1-3 mA. I measured a couple myself and they were both right at 2 mA. That’s a bit to high for a AA e-switch light IMO. The convoy driver uses a different boost controller and what I discovered is that ~5 seconds after power is applied the parasitic current drops to ~0.1 mA with a 14500 and around .45 mA with a NiMH. That’s not incredibly low but it’s actually lower than some production lights I’ve seen measured, and plenty good enough for me. Fully charged to fully discharged eneloop would take around 6 months if my math is right.

I recycled my filed switch board with 3d printed spacer technique for this one. I used a attiny85 rotated 180 degrees with the PWM trace cut and a jumper to the PWM pin on the attiny85. Switch connections were made directly to the legs on the attiny. I used Narsil, green switch LED’s and a LH351D 5000k 90cri.

You’re “killing” me with these AA lights mods :o
I’am an AA/14500 fan, but there is no single “stock” UI that makes my day yet (well, the Skilhunt M150 V2, eventually), and you getting all these done :o

Sofirn gotta worry up that SP10S BLF special :innocent:

I have swaped emitter and optic in Olight Warrior Mini.

Now using 219C 5700K 90CRI on Sofirn C10S MCPCB and Yaijamei 10deg optic

Too tired to post photos so here’s the link to the gallery

Nice! I am always impressed with the modified Olights. My only Olight is in parts for almost a year. Good job!

But… you replaced copper mcpcb with aluminum? Why?

Btw.
It’s lh351d not 219c.

I didn’t took photos before assembly.

Long story short, board in photos and 351 were testbed. When emitter turned angry blue on turbo i realized it needs Cu board.

So i took one from SP10S which is perfect fit BTW and after test with 351D i went with 219C.
Warrior Mini has 0.7A on high and around 3A on turbo so big fat 351D beam loose a lot on 0.7A. That’s the reason i choose narrower 219C

An update on my Sofirn SP10S with Anduril2 via an attiny1616 swap. My original board used an airwire because I wasn’t paying attention when I picked the pins and I used and ADC1 pin instead of an ADC0 pin (and coding around it would have been a pain). So… new board with no airwires. I also went with the 0.8mm Oshpark service. It seems like the castellations rip off a bit easier, so you’ve gotta be careful with that.

Disassembled

Put back together again

Do you mean that we should use PB0(pin14), PB1(pin13) or PB4(pin10), PB5(pin9) for TCA0 ?

I was talking more about which ADC pins to use. The attiny1616 has two ADC peripherals: ADC0 and ADC1. The temperature sensor is built into ADC0 and FSM (Anduril’s base) is designed to use just the one ADC. So if you need an ADC pin for reading voltage, I’d pick one on ADC0.

If there’s to be such a thing as a “standard” attiny1616 layout for Anduril, I’ve proposed this, at least for easily replacing the t85 on existing drivers. Deviations are fine, but these should work well:

  • eSwitch: PA5
  • Aux LED: PB5
  • PWM FET: PB0 (TCA0 WO0)
  • PWM 1×7135: PB1 (TCA0 WO1)
  • Voltage: VCC (or an ADC0 pin)

First mod today was to build my long awaited S2+ triple. I bought a copper pill many years ago from a fellow BLF member. The pill came from Russia. Have had this a long time and forgot all about it, but found it before Christmas. So I order up a triple 20mm noctigon from Hank at the Int’l Outdoor store, complete with some 4000k 95CRI SST-20’s. And the optic.

Also decided to go for the BLF A6/DD17 driver and a new grey S2+ host.

First snag, at some point Convoy must have changed the threads in the S2+ as the copper pill would not screw into the new S2, so I stripped down a very early red S2 and used that instead.

Quite pleased with the result.

I have a triple XP-G2 in my BLF Ti, although that is running a Qlite driver. The tint on the SST-20’s is nice, but when you compare to the XP-G2’s you can see how blue the 4000k is.

The DD17 driver works well with the SST-20’s and Samsung 30Q. Despite offering a bigger hotspot than the XP-G2’s, the higher output modes give the SST-20’s more throw and output.

Also modded a Convoy C8. This is an old host with the removable pill. It was running a Nichia219B direct drive. But replaced with an Osram W1 and 5 amp 4 mode driver. I only have an OP reflector, but the beam and throw still look pretty impressive. Need to test it a bit more though.

Thanks for your prompt reply. I have just received my ATtiny416-XNANO for testing. Your advice is very helpful for the beginner writing codes. You are subscribed.

Fw3a mod

- main xp-l hi 5000k

  • additional Nichia e17a 3000k

For a very long time I’ve been looking to do a mod, inspired by this thread of g_damian, and this CRX thread, and this Firelight2 thread, and even some comfychair mods I once managed to see.
To all of you, thanks for the tips and and descriptions of the work done, as it was a tremendous help :beer: :face_with_monocle:

What I wanted to do was a “shortened” Convoy S2+, triple, using a Jaxman 18500 battery, and using an 18650 battery!
This week I received the tube and yesterday I took some time yo make it happen :smiley:

I had to “dismantle” the blue S2+ that I put together sometime ago here and I used an extra S2 pill I had for the job! Used a file, and my Parkside tool (dremmel like) with a cilinder of sandpaper and a drill for the middle hole.

The leds are Luxeon V2 3000K :heart_eyes: , under a Carclo 10511, and powered by a TA Bistro HD OTSM driver from Lexel . The retaining ring was made by kiriba-ru, the FC switch is from Convoy. The pocket clip is from Nitefox ES10K, and the blue tailcap from the LHT store at AliExpress. The GITD gasket is from CRX :wink:

I put some adhesive tape to mark the limit I wanted to file/sand, and also to protect the other threads, as sometimes it hard not to damage something.
Then I did the filing/sanding work until the top of the pill was flat and until I had taken enough material from the threads so that the pill could get it but still make “contact” with the walls of the head. Then I drilled the hole in the pill.
And the the rest was soldering and putting things in place.

The 18500 tube colour matches pretty well with the S2+ colours, and only the knurling is slightly different.

!https://i.imgur.com/3eiVT7a.jpg !:https://i.imgur.com/3eiVT7a.jpg

Vs XP-G2 S4 3C (5500K) >>>>>>> Vs Luxeon V 4000K >>>>>> Vs the glow gasket of my Convoy S6 :smiley:

Convoy S6 > Convoy S2+ Desert Tan > Convoy S2+ black > Convoy S2+ blue > Convoy S2 18350 > Convoy S2+ DT 18350 > Convoy S2+ black 18350 > Convoy T2

Nice work! I like the proportions of it, always thought the std is too long, and 18350 too short. :beer: