I haven’t checked the difference between those o-rings.
However, I can confirm that the space inside the button boot and the top of the switch in an FWAA appears the same as in the FW3A. I have a large bag of o-rings and every one of my FW3As and FWAAs has received the o-ring mod using the same o-rings.
Basically, any o-ring mod that works on an FW3A should also work on an FWAA.
Remove the plastic nubbin from its socket on the inside of the rubber button boot.
Place the endcap on a table with the inside facing the ceiling.
Insert the metal button
Insert the rubber button boot
Insert the o-ring into the rubber button boot
Insert the switch PCB.
Insert and screw on the switch retaining ring.
Note that the FWAA has a small wide spring that sits around the outer edge of the button boot. It provides electrical contact even if the switch pcb is not snug. Make sure this is in position when reassembling. The FW3A does not have this spring.
Yeah, that makes sense to me, given how the switch cover diameter is nearly the same (the FWAA is like 1~2mm shorter) . I’ve not yet bothered to take apart my switch. It works so well, I don’t mind doing a quad click for electronic lockout.
The MacGuyver in me just got a stiffy. Thanks! :laughing:
Btw, speaking of enlarged…
I put a fat o-ring at the base of the body tube on my FW3A, just under the clip ring. Wow, does this extend the easy handling of this tube light. So easy to hold & manipulate. That… didn’t come out right. :laughing:
I think the idea of the tactical ring is that it makes it even easier to get a cigar grip, because the ring makes the ledge that stops your ring and middle finger even bigger.
Flipping the body tube would make the light harder to use with cigar grip I think. Doing so eliminates the ledge your fingers are supposed to grip.