So you got the KR1 with the W2 Osram? That’s white correct? Any regrets? Planning to order one myself (:
Your collection is amazing btw
I am not aware of any new spicy options unfortunately.
It seems, that no more XP-L HI 2850K 90CRI available - I was wondering, that I will maybe get one, but eventually I missed that.
A D4SV2 with 9A maximum current driver would be nice, because it could use the Osram CSLNM1 FY (Yellow) emitter, but it didn’t happen yet.
All in all, D4SV2 is now restocked, and we got:
- +5$ base price
- +5$ price in extra options (if I remember it right, SST-20 Deep Red and Osram were affected)
So I wonder, if the restocked D4SV2 is better in any regards, or this is just a price bump (e.g. $54.98 -> $64.98 for the SST-20 Deep Red).
So, for you Photon Master, I can only suggest SST-20 2700K, because it will collect less insects during summertime nights (but this is most spectacular with the E21A 2000K vs any other white LEDs), and it is the best tint after E21A for that CCT (very nice at lower currents).
E21A 2000K > everything else
Thanks. That’s correct w2. I have a d1s with the w1 so I knew what that’s like- and it’s really good, really good throw. But I just wanted to try something different. This seems to have about 95% of the throw but with a fair bit more overall output.
+1, 2000K E21A for the win.
Thanks guys, I love the E21A 2000K too. I have that as CH1 on one of my 9.3’s and also my KR4 Ti-Copper. That soft golden light is beautiful. Unfortunately Hank said he can’t do E21A 2000K for the D4SV2 or the D18 which would be wicked
I also thought of doing a monochromatic XP-E2 but when I asked Hank, he said that he can do it but not for the D4S V2 and D18, since the driver does not support it
Still not sure which emitter I want to in the Cyan to complete my D4SV2 collection.
I actually don’t have any D4V2’s and he has E21A’s for those. I’ve never seen the E21A 3500K, 4000K, or 5000K
E21A 3500K R9080 has a gorgeous tint. If you like 2000K you will certainly love 3500K as well. I have it in a KR4 and it’s just awesome.
I have just asked Hank what kind of driver he uses for D4Sv2 with Osram W2 and SST20-DR. He said it‘s the FET+1+3 driver. I agree the 9A CC circuit would be a nice choice for that.
D4v2 or KR4 with monochromatic XP-E2 LEDs? Great idea. Hank could probably sell a lot of them with the 5A CC driver, running them at very reasonable 1.25A per LED. I bet XP-E2 red 620nm would be much brighter compared to SST20-DR. I still love the better red tint, though.
I wish Hank offered a series version of the multicolor D4v2 (RGBW) with MELD UI. :LOVE:
Unfortunately, I did not find the time until today to have a closer look at my K9.3 flashlight. I only put it out of the box into my shelf when it arrived. I wish I had looked at it closer a bit earlier. On the other hand, what I complain about is most likely quite nitpicky and functionality is fully given. I admit this is not a $ 1000 Oveready BOSS light but for a $ 144.48 flashlight I would still have expected less imperfections.
What I like:
It works to my satisfaction, well almost. I chose XP-L HI 4000K V2 5D for CH1 and SST20-DR for CH2 as well as a red switch backlight. The light came on in CH2 (deep red) and Advanced UI with stepless ramping. It puts a very decent big spot of light onto the wall. Deep red is quite bright on full power.
What could be investigated a bit more:
When K9.3 is on lowest brightness (FLOOR) those 9 XP-L HI emitters start to flicker like crazy, looking like candle mode is activated. Turbo mode for CH2 in combination with SST20-DR seems more or less useless as another doubleclick will immediately bring brightness down to CEILING level again. I am talking about 0.5 or maybe 1 second for stepping down. Thermal stepdown is programmed to 55°C and the K9.3 was still at room temperature. Maybe Hank can have a deeper look into this as I hope this is normal behaviour and that my K9.3 works flawlessly.
Something that took me by surprise:
The head has a significant notch, probably abrasion from CNC machining. It could not be caused by myself as you can see it's black anodized. Again, nothing serious but still it diminishes the otherwise nice look and feel. The stainless steel bezel shows some scratches right out of the box and a rusty mark where it touches the head unit.
Someone must have written something on the head unit. I can just about recognize "S7R R" written on it with some permanent marker pen. Certainly, this is nothing to rant about as I could clean it off with a cotton swab and alcohol. But still it's a bit confusing to see this on the outside of a flashlight. The black dot in the left section of the switch button is somehow distracting from the great red glow of the backlight, like a fly on the wall. ;-) I hope my second K9.3 that is en route already will have less imperfections.
After playing with the K9.3 for a while I discovered a software glitch in Andúril 2.0 that is maybe important to mention. The Lockout mode will be left automatically if you set the AUX lights to Beacon/Blinking. Fortunately, in most situations this is not a serious bug but still it can lead to unpleasant situations wearing it in your pocket and feeling certain to have locked the light before. I highly recommend ToyKeeper and Hank to have a look at it unless my K9.3 is affected only. Maybe some of you can reconfirm this glitch.
I made a video to demonstrate the software glitch:
I made following observations with the faulty AUX Beacon mode:
1. Go to Lockout Mode (4C from OFF)
2. Select Beacon AUX (7C via off - low - high - beacon/blinking)
Red Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!
Yellow Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!
Cyan Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!
Blue Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!
Purple Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!
White Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!
Colorful „Disco“ Beacon => no errors within 10min runtime, Lockout works!
Colorful „Rainbow“ Beacon => no errors within 10min runtime, Lockout works!
Colorful „Voltage“ Beacon (blinking purple = full battery) => no errors within 10min runtime, Lockout works!
I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.
Apart from the imperfections I am wondering how to deal with the flickering on FLOOR level. I could set a higher FLOOR level but then again, where's the point in having "moonlight" if it's not really low? I also wonder about those three SST20-DR stepping down immediately. The light will not even get warm on the head, so it can't be a thermal stepdown on the driver. :???: I hope the other K9.3 (CH1 E21A 2000K, CH2 SST20 4000K) will be/work better.
Linear driver + low Vf leds : SST20-DR has a Vf arround 1.6V at 3A according to the datasheet, let’s say that a charged cell drops to 3.8V at 9A, you’re dissipating (3.8-1.6)x9= 19.8W in the mosfet(s), which is enormous and the temp sensor in the MCU will pick that heat very quickly (thankfully because otherwise the mosfet would probably blow). Increasing thermal dissipation could maybe help (slightly), adding a thermal pad between the mosfet(s) and the body for example.
I don’t have the K9.3, but I just tested my Anduril 2 D4V2 Ti for about 20 minutes and it doesn’t seem to have this bug.
My copper KR1 is Stateside! Very impressive Hank (I ordered it on the 10th)!
Yeah, but keep in mind the Vf is 2.6 not 1.6, so the value is less, but still big.
I was also curious why the mosfet didn’t blow up already, but I guess good thermal path makes the MCU sense the heat in blink of an eye.
Actually it is a bit confusing in the data sheet, 3000mA 2.6V and 3A and 1.6V
My bad, I totally misread the datasheet, the graph is deltaVf from Vf at 700mA, actually it say +1.6V on top of 2.35V so 3.95V. So there shouldn’t be any heating issue…
Disregard what I said.
OK so then it is not 2.6V either like I have said, it just shows that at 350mA it can be minimum 1.8V, typical 2.05V and maximum 2.6V
This is quite the tolerance in Vf for these LEDs if it can be from 1.8V to 2.6V at 350mA.
Yes, it is claimed typical 2.35V at 700mA.
Then you are right, 2.35V+1.6V= 3.95V at 3A
Then let’s say cell dropped at 9A to 4.0V, 4.0-3.95=0.05V*9A = 0.45W ironically linear driver friendly.
Of course mosfet has it’s own RDSon, there is a sense resistor, etc, so maybe 3.9V might be more realistic than 4.0V at 9A
In some Intl Outdoor threads I’ve seen posts talking about possible headlamps. Now is that something that Hank has actually considered or is it strictly a want from the community?
I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.
I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.
I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.
Hank, if you have a chance to read this thread anytime soon, please also check your quality control with the D18 flashlight. Just before the K9.3 I also ordered another D18 (sand, SST20-DR) from you.
First of all, the D18 is absolutely awesome, making an insanely bright wall of deep red light. But the battery tube has so many sharp edges inside, it damaged two of three of my Samsung 29E batteries after using them for only one quick test. These batteries now have deep scratches or scraped areas. :-(