21700 D4KTi COLORFUL version is available

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Thefossilchannel
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Lightenzaza wrote:
Thefossilchannel wrote:

I think I also ordered a floody optic with it


I’m curious to what you receive, please let me know . The e21a is shipped with the 10623 ( floody ) by default ( i think ) . We will see if adding an extra floody optic gives you an 10622 ( regular ) or double floody .

I dont know which one theyre sending me. I suppose I will test them both to see if they are the same or two different ones. Are there images visually showing the difference other than beam shots? Or is it too hard to tell by looking at the optics? Is one more frosty than the other?

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Easy to tell.

Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, l8, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, hs10, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40

Photon Master
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I ordered a Green SST20 4000K w/ regular optics and a gray deep red w/ floody optics because I’m going to use it mostly in my bedroom. Already have a 6500K in black.

Should I order a cyan in 2700K? Or perhaps Osram?

Lux-Perpetua
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Hank, would it be possible to get the D4V2 with E21A flashed with Andúril 2.0 or is the new Andúril available for K9.3 only? I just placed another order.

As always when buying new amazing flashlights from your shop: Resistance is futile.  Cash

adam7027
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Hank, would it be possible to get the D4V2 with E21A flashed with Andúril 2.0 or is the new Andúril available for K9.3 only? I just placed another order.

As always when buying new amazing flashlights from your shop: Resistance is futile.  Cash

I started to wait for D4V2 gray body. "Emisar Gray" is one of my favourites, just like the venerable "Convoy Silver".

Too bad, that D4SV2 is not available with 9A driver for Osram CSLNM1 FY, that would be an instant hit for me.

Maybe a D18 would worth a 2×9A driver, and then, it could be use E21A as well, just it would be like a K9.3 with double CH1 enabled at the same time.

ArtieT59
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Photon Master wrote:
I ordered a Green SST20 4000K w/ regular optics and a gray deep red w/ floody optics because I’m going to use it mostly in my bedroom. Already have a 6500K in black.

Should I order a cyan in 2700K? Or perhaps Osram?


Nice! Please post some beam shots of that deep red. And I vote cyan w2, because that’ll be my next light lol. So I guess I’m being partial. But having a 4000k and 2700k seem to me to be .. I don’t know to similar . I mean I know they’re very different but why have lights so close when you could have a 4000k beauty tint and w2 hotrod Tiny thrower! Plus, it to mention buying the w2 from Hank is like $50 cheaper then getting it from Vinh (I think Vinh is awesome) just saying though

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

Photon Master
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Thanks for the advice! I’ll def post the deep red shots. I have those on CH2 on two of my 9.3’s and it’s crazy bright!

I just went with my buddy to see the house he’s having built and after some thought, decided to bring my K9.3 w/ 2700K E21A and Osram yellow

I didn’t like the 2700 when I got it but I have to say, it was perfect for shining around inside the dark rooms (no lights in there yet).

Maybe I’ll grab the Cyan in SST20 2700K.

lawallac
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lawallac wrote:
I went ahead and ordered the KR1 in copper with the W2 and the Green K9.3 with E21A 2000k and the surrounds with SST20 6500.

Received mine today. Amazing speed for just the basic non-express, put order in on 1/09. The lights are awesome. The KR1 is as heavy as you would expect, little over 12 oz with the battery- and my does it throw well. It’s also got some good spill as well. The K9.3 with the 2000K and 6500K is exactly the contrasting look I was wanting. I would say the 6500K SST20s in the 3 surrounds has more output than the 9 E21A 2000K leds but what a nice warm glow. The SST20s give mostly flood with the optic but still reach out much more than the warm whites. I got the warm white switch on this light, I like it not yellow just med dim incan white color.

hodor
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D4SV2 with W2 (CSLPM1) still using the same driver (FET+1+3)?

Photon Master
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hodor wrote:
D4SV2 with W2 (CSLPM1) still using the same driver (FET+1+3)?

I wonder how that would be? I have a 6500K D4SV2 and just ordered these variations of it:

SST-20 Deep Red, 660nm
Neutral White – SST20 4000K 95CRI

Any ideas for another D4SV2? Planning to get a cyan (:

Photon Master
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lawallac wrote:
lawallac wrote:
I went ahead and ordered the KR1 in copper with the W2 and the Green K9.3 with E21A 2000k and the surrounds with SST20 6500.

Received mine today. Amazing speed for just the basic non-express, put order in on 1/09. The lights are awesome. The KR1 is as heavy as you would expect, little over 12 oz with the battery- and my does it throw well. It’s also got some good spill as well. The K9.3 with the 2000K and 6500K is exactly the contrasting look I was wanting. I would say the 6500K SST20s in the 3 surrounds has more output than the 9 E21A 2000K leds but what a nice warm glow. The SST20s give mostly flood with the optic but still reach out much more than the warm whites. I got the warm white switch on this light, I like it not yellow just med dim incan white color.


So you got the KR1 with the W2 Osram? That’s white correct? Any regrets? Planning to order one myself (:

Your collection is amazing btw

adam7027
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Photon Master wrote:
hodor wrote:
D4SV2 with W2 (CSLPM1) still using the same driver (FET+1+3)?

I wonder how that would be? I have a 6500K D4SV2 and just ordered these variations of it:

SST-20 Deep Red, 660nm
Neutral White – SST20 4000K 95CRI

Any ideas for another D4SV2? Planning to get a cyan (:

I am not aware of any new spicy options unfortunately.
It seems, that no more XP-L HI 2850K 90CRI available – I was wondering, that I will maybe get one, but eventually I missed that.
A D4SV2 with 9A maximum current driver would be nice, because it could use the Osram CSLNM1 FY (Yellow) emitter, but it didn’t happen yet.

All in all, D4SV2 is now restocked, and we got:
- +5$ base price
- +5$ price in extra options (if I remember it right, SST-20 Deep Red and Osram were affected)

So I wonder, if the restocked D4SV2 is better in any regards, or this is just a price bump (e.g. $54.98 -> $64.98 for the SST-20 Deep Red).

So, for you Photon Master, I can only suggest SST-20 2700K, because it will collect less insects during summertime nights (but this is most spectacular with the E21A 2000K vs any other white LEDs), and it is the best tint after E21A for that CCT (very nice at lower currents).

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E21A 2000K > everything else

lawallac
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Thanks. That’s correct w2. I have a d1s with the w1 so I knew what that’s like- and it’s really good, really good throw. But I just wanted to try something different. This seems to have about 95% of the throw but with a fair bit more overall output.

cetary
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puglife2 wrote:
E21A 2000K > everything else

+1, 2000K E21A for the win.

Photon Master
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Thanks guys, I love the E21A 2000K too. I have that as CH1 on one of my 9.3’s and also my KR4 Ti-Copper. That soft golden light is beautiful. Unfortunately Hank said he can’t do E21A 2000K for the D4SV2 or the D18 which would be wicked

I also thought of doing a monochromatic XP-E2 but when I asked Hank, he said that he can do it but not for the D4S V2 and D18, since the driver does not support it

Still not sure which emitter I want to in the Cyan to complete my D4SV2 collection.

I actually don’t have any D4V2’s and he has E21A’s for those. I’ve never seen the E21A 3500K, 4000K, or 5000K

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E21A 3500K R9080 has a gorgeous tint. If you like 2000K you will certainly love 3500K as well. I have it in a KR4 and it’s just awesome.

I have just asked Hank what kind of driver he uses for D4Sv2 with Osram W2 and SST20-DR. He said it‘s the FET+1+3 driver. I agree the 9A CC circuit would be a nice choice for that.

D4v2 or KR4 with monochromatic XP-E2 LEDs? Great idea. Hank could probably sell a lot of them with the 5A CC driver, running them at very reasonable 1.25A per LED. I bet XP-E2 red 620nm would be much brighter compared to SST20-DR. I still love the better red tint, though.

I wish Hank offered a series version of the multicolor D4v2 (RGBW) with MELD UI. Love

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Unfortunately, I did not find the time until today to have a closer look at my K9.3 flashlight. I only put it out of the box into my shelf when it arrived. I wish I had looked at it closer a bit earlier. On the other hand, what I complain about is most likely quite nitpicky and functionality is fully given. I admit this is not a $ 1000 Oveready BOSS light but for a $ 144.48 flashlight I would still have expected less imperfections. 

What I like:

It works to my satisfaction, well almost. I chose XP-L HI 4000K V2 5D for CH1 and SST20-DR for CH2 as well as a red switch backlight. The light came on in CH2 (deep red) and Advanced UI with stepless ramping. It puts a very decent big spot of light onto the wall. Deep red is quite bright on full power.

What could be investigated a bit more:

When K9.3 is on lowest brightness (FLOOR) those 9 XP-L HI emitters start to flicker like crazy, looking like candle mode is activated. Turbo mode for CH2 in combination with SST20-DR seems more or less useless as another doubleclick will immediately bring brightness down to CEILING level again. I am talking about 0.5 or maybe 1 second for stepping down. Thermal stepdown is programmed to 55°C and the K9.3 was still at room temperature. Maybe Hank can have a deeper look into this as I hope this is normal behaviour and that my K9.3 works flawlessly.

Something that took me by surprise:

The head has a significant notch, probably abrasion from CNC machining. It could not be caused by myself as you can see it's black anodized. Again, nothing serious but still it diminishes the otherwise nice look and feel. The stainless steel bezel shows some scratches right out of the box and a rusty mark where it touches the head unit.

Someone must have written something on the head unit. I can just about recognize "S7R R" written on it with some permanent marker pen. Certainly, this is nothing to rant about as I could clean it off with a cotton swab and alcohol. But still it's a bit confusing to see this on the outside of a flashlight. The black dot in the left section of the switch button is somehow distracting from the great red glow of the backlight, like a fly on the wall. Wink I hope my second K9.3 that is en route already will have less imperfections.

 

After playing with the K9.3 for a while I discovered a software glitch in Andúril 2.0 that is maybe important to mention. The Lockout mode will be left automatically if you set the AUX lights to Beacon/Blinking. Fortunately, in most situations this is not a serious bug but still it can lead to unpleasant situations wearing it in your pocket and feeling certain to have locked the light before. I highly recommend ToyKeeper and Hank to have a look at it unless my K9.3 is affected only. Maybe some of you can reconfirm this glitch.

 

I made a video to demonstrate the software glitch:

 

I made following observations with the faulty AUX Beacon mode:

1. Go to Lockout Mode (4C from OFF)

2. Select Beacon AUX (7C via off - low - high - beacon/blinking)

                Red Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!

                Yellow Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!

                Cyan Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!

                Blue Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!

                Purple Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!

                White Beacon (random duration, < 1min) => blinking turns off, flashlight is unlocked!

                Colorful „Disco“ Beacon => no errors within 10min runtime, Lockout works!

                Colorful „Rainbow“ Beacon => no errors within 10min runtime, Lockout works!

                Colorful „Voltage“ Beacon (blinking purple = full battery) => no errors within 10min runtime, Lockout works!

hodor
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I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

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Apart from the imperfections I am wondering how to deal with the flickering on FLOOR level. I could set a higher FLOOR level but then again, where's the point in having "moonlight" if it's not really low? I also wonder about those three SST20-DR stepping down immediately. The light will not even get warm on the head, so it can't be a thermal stepdown on the driver. Question I hope the other K9.3 (CH1 E21A 2000K, CH2 SST20 4000K) will be/work better.

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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Turbo mode for CH2 in combination with SST20-DR seems more or less useless as another doubleclick will immediately bring brightness down to CEILING level again. I am talking about 0.5 or maybe 1 second for stepping down. Thermal stepdown is programmed to 55°C and the K9.3 was still at room temperature.

Linear driver + low Vf leds : SST20-DR has a Vf arround 1.6V at 3A according to the datasheet, let’s say that a charged cell drops to 3.8V at 9A, you’re dissipating (3.8-1.6)×9= 19.8W in the mosfet(s), which is enormous and the temp sensor in the MCU will pick that heat very quickly (thankfully because otherwise the mosfet would probably blow). Increasing thermal dissipation could maybe help (slightly), adding a thermal pad between the mosfet(s) and the body for example.

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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

After playing with the K9.3 for a while I discovered a software glitch in Andúril 2.0 that is maybe important to mention. The Lockout mode will be left automatically if you set the AUX lights to Beacon/Blinking. Fortunately, in most situations this is not a serious bug but still it can lead to unpleasant situations wearing it in your pocket and feeling certain to have locked the light before. I highly recommend ToyKeeper and Hank to have a look at it unless my K9.3 is affected only. Maybe some of you can reconfirm this glitch.

I don’t have the K9.3, but I just tested my Anduril 2 D4V2 Ti for about 20 minutes and it doesn’t seem to have this bug.

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My copper KR1 is Stateside! Very impressive Hank (I ordered it on the 10th)!

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

Hikelite
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thefreeman wrote:
Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Turbo mode for CH2 in combination with SST20-DR seems more or less useless as another doubleclick will immediately bring brightness down to CEILING level again. I am talking about 0.5 or maybe 1 second for stepping down. Thermal stepdown is programmed to 55°C and the K9.3 was still at room temperature.

Linear driver + low Vf leds : SST20-DR has a Vf arround 1.6V at 3A according to the datasheet, let’s say that a charged cell drops to 3.8V at 9A, you’re dissipating (3.8-1.6)×9= 19.8W in the mosfet(s), which is enormous and the temp sensor in the MCU will pick that heat very quickly (thankfully because otherwise the mosfet would probably blow). Increasing thermal dissipation could maybe help (slightly), adding a thermal pad between the mosfet(s) and the body for example.

Yeah, but keep in mind the Vf is 2.6 not 1.6, so the value is less, but still big.

I was also curious why the mosfet didn’t blow up already, but I guess good thermal path makes the MCU sense the heat in blink of an eye.

Actually it is a bit confusing in the data sheet, 3000mA 2.6V and 3A and 1.6V

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Hikelite wrote:

Yeah, but keep in mind the Vf is 2.6 not 1.6, so the value is less, but still big.
!

My bad, I totally misread the datasheet, the graph is deltaVf from Vf at 700mA, actually it say +1.6V on top of 2.35V so 3.95V. So there shouldn’t be any heating issue…

Disregard what I said.

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OK so then it is not 2.6V either like I have said, it just shows that at 350mA it can be minimum 1.8V, typical 2.05V and maximum 2.6V

This is quite the tolerance in Vf for these LEDs if it can be from 1.8V to 2.6V at 350mA.

Yes, it is claimed typical 2.35V at 700mA.

Then you are right, 2.35V+1.6V= 3.95V at 3A

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Then let’s say cell dropped at 9A to 4.0V, 4.0-3.95=0.05V*9A = 0.45W ironically linear driver friendly.
Of course mosfet has it’s own RDSon, there is a sense resistor, etc, so maybe 3.9V might be more realistic than 4.0V at 9A

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In some Intl Outdoor threads I’ve seen posts talking about possible headlamps. Now is that something that Hank has actually considered or is it strictly a want from the community?

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hodor wrote:
I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

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Hank, if you have a chance to read this thread anytime soon, please also check your quality control with the D18 flashlight. Just before the K9.3 I also ordered another D18 (sand, SST20-DR) from you. 

First of all, the D18 is absolutely awesome, making an insanely bright wall of deep red light. But the battery tube has so many sharp edges inside, it damaged two of three of my Samsung 29E batteries after using them for only one quick test. These batteries now have deep scratches or scraped areas. Sad

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