Emisar D3AA is available now

[hodor]

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

[Lux-Perpetua]

Apart from the imperfections I am wondering how to deal with the flickering on FLOOR level. I could set a higher FLOOR level but then again, where's the point in having "moonlight" if it's not really low? I also wonder about those three SST20-DR stepping down immediately. The light will not even get warm on the head, so it can't be a thermal stepdown on the driver. :???: I hope the other K9.3 (CH1 E21A 2000K, CH2 SST20 4000K) will be/work better.

[thefreeman]

@Lux-Perpetua

Turbo mode for CH2 in combination with SST20-DR seems more or less useless as another doubleclick will immediately bring brightness down to CEILING level again. I am talking about 0.5 or maybe 1 second for stepping down. Thermal stepdown is programmed to 55°C and the K9.3 was still at room temperature.

Linear driver + low Vf leds : SST20-DR has a Vf arround 1.6V at 3A according to the datasheet, let’s say that a charged cell drops to 3.8V at 9A, you’re dissipating (3.8-1.6)x9= 19.8W in the mosfet(s), which is enormous and the temp sensor in the MCU will pick that heat very quickly (thankfully because otherwise the mosfet would probably blow). Increasing thermal dissipation could maybe help (slightly), adding a thermal pad between the mosfet(s) and the body for example.

[trakcon]

@Lux-Perpetua

After playing with the K9.3 for a while I discovered a software glitch in Andúril 2.0 that is maybe important to mention. The Lockout mode will be left automatically if you set the AUX lights to Beacon/Blinking. Fortunately, in most situations this is not a serious bug but still it can lead to unpleasant situations wearing it in your pocket and feeling certain to have locked the light before. I highly recommend ToyKeeper and Hank to have a look at it unless my K9.3 is affected only. Maybe some of you can reconfirm this glitch.

I don’t have the K9.3, but I just tested my Anduril 2 D4V2 Ti for about 20 minutes and it doesn’t seem to have this bug.

[ArtieT59]

My copper KR1 is Stateside! Very impressive Hank (I ordered it on the 10th)!

[Hikelite]

@thefreeman

@Lux-Perpetua

Turbo mode for CH2 in combination with SST20-DR seems more or less useless as another doubleclick will immediately bring brightness down to CEILING level again. I am talking about 0.5 or maybe 1 second for stepping down. Thermal stepdown is programmed to 55°C and the K9.3 was still at room temperature.

Linear driver + low Vf leds : SST20-DR has a Vf arround 1.6V at 3A according to the datasheet, let’s say that a charged cell drops to 3.8V at 9A, you’re dissipating (3.8-1.6)x9= 19.8W in the mosfet(s), which is enormous and the temp sensor in the MCU will pick that heat very quickly (thankfully because otherwise the mosfet would probably blow). Increasing thermal dissipation could maybe help (slightly), adding a thermal pad between the mosfet(s) and the body for example.

Yeah, but keep in mind the Vf is 2.6 not 1.6, so the value is less, but still big.

I was also curious why the mosfet didn’t blow up already, but I guess good thermal path makes the MCU sense the heat in blink of an eye.

Actually it is a bit confusing in the data sheet, 3000mA 2.6V and 3A and 1.6V

[thefreeman]

@Hikelite

Yeah, but keep in mind the Vf is 2.6 not 1.6, so the value is less, but still big.
!

My bad, I totally misread the datasheet, the graph is deltaVf from Vf at 700mA, actually it say +1.6V on top of 2.35V so 3.95V. So there shouldn’t be any heating issue…

Disregard what I said.

[Hikelite]

OK so then it is not 2.6V either like I have said, it just shows that at 350mA it can be minimum 1.8V, typical 2.05V and maximum 2.6V

This is quite the tolerance in Vf for these LEDs if it can be from 1.8V to 2.6V at 350mA.

Yes, it is claimed typical 2.35V at 700mA.

Then you are right, 2.35V+1.6V= 3.95V at 3A

[Hikelite]

Then let’s say cell dropped at 9A to 4.0V, 4.0-3.95=0.05V*9A = 0.45W ironically linear driver friendly.
Of course mosfet has it’s own RDSon, there is a sense resistor, etc, so maybe 3.9V might be more realistic than 4.0V at 9A

[battery]

In some Intl Outdoor threads I’ve seen posts talking about possible headlamps. Now is that something that Hank has actually considered or is it strictly a want from the community?

[Frostcream]

@hodor

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

[Lux-Perpetua]

Hank, if you have a chance to read this thread anytime soon, please also check your quality control with the D18 flashlight. Just before the K9.3 I also ordered another D18 (sand, SST20-DR) from you.

First of all, the D18 is absolutely awesome, making an insanely bright wall of deep red light. But the battery tube has so many sharp edges inside, it damaged two of three of my Samsung 29E batteries after using them for only one quick test. These batteries now have deep scratches or scraped areas. :-(

[Lux-Perpetua]

@trakcon

I don’t have the K9.3, but I just tested my Anduril 2 D4V2 Ti for about 20 minutes and it doesn’t seem to have this bug.

Thanks for checking. The Flashoholic tested his K9.3 and confirmed the same bug. I suppose it must be a firmware bug in K9.3 only. I am not sure when ToyKeeper will be back to investigate the problem. In the meantime I can only recommend to not using the faulty AUX Beacon light mode if you use the electronic lockout.

[Rayoui]

Luckily, it’s easy to physically lock out this light with a quick quarter turn of the tail cap. On lights where this is possible (non tail e-switch lights with anodized threads) I usually use this method simply because it’s faster. You lose the aux lights though.

[Garik_F]

So, I assume that 219c will be never restocked, sad to see that, one of my favourite emitters

[puglife2]

sorry to be this guy but E21A > 219c

[ArtieT59]

@MoreLumens

Could someone explain a bit about those E21A’s vs. 219b/c. How many lumens they give out and are they throwier, more efficient or stuff like that?

+1 please. But I have a good feeling their output is less. I remember seeing the claimed lumens on the e21a d4 at 1200 lumens, I seem to remember hanks site saying the 219 b/c was higher ?

[contactcr]

In the K9.3 at the top of the ramp (9A) the E21A is probably 20-25% less output but better spectrum (higher CRI) and better tint (below/near BBL). Even if the LED is more throwy by itself it wont be in a light because they generally use wide lenses for E21A to make the beam nicer.

If you consider the 219C may also be able to go into direct drive or partial FET then the difference in output will be greater.

[trakcon]

@Frostcream

@hodor

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

[ArtieT59]

@trakcon

@Frostcream

@hodor

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

That has worked wel for me too. My KR1 has always had this issue. My kr4 has never had any issues. Ever. Been dropped a lot too.