Emisar D3AA is available now

[ArtieT59]

My copper KR1 is Stateside! Very impressive Hank (I ordered it on the 10th)!

[Hikelite]

@thefreeman

@Lux-Perpetua

Turbo mode for CH2 in combination with SST20-DR seems more or less useless as another doubleclick will immediately bring brightness down to CEILING level again. I am talking about 0.5 or maybe 1 second for stepping down. Thermal stepdown is programmed to 55°C and the K9.3 was still at room temperature.

Linear driver + low Vf leds : SST20-DR has a Vf arround 1.6V at 3A according to the datasheet, let’s say that a charged cell drops to 3.8V at 9A, you’re dissipating (3.8-1.6)x9= 19.8W in the mosfet(s), which is enormous and the temp sensor in the MCU will pick that heat very quickly (thankfully because otherwise the mosfet would probably blow). Increasing thermal dissipation could maybe help (slightly), adding a thermal pad between the mosfet(s) and the body for example.

Yeah, but keep in mind the Vf is 2.6 not 1.6, so the value is less, but still big.

I was also curious why the mosfet didn’t blow up already, but I guess good thermal path makes the MCU sense the heat in blink of an eye.

Actually it is a bit confusing in the data sheet, 3000mA 2.6V and 3A and 1.6V

[thefreeman]

@Hikelite

Yeah, but keep in mind the Vf is 2.6 not 1.6, so the value is less, but still big.
!

My bad, I totally misread the datasheet, the graph is deltaVf from Vf at 700mA, actually it say +1.6V on top of 2.35V so 3.95V. So there shouldn’t be any heating issue…

Disregard what I said.

[Hikelite]

OK so then it is not 2.6V either like I have said, it just shows that at 350mA it can be minimum 1.8V, typical 2.05V and maximum 2.6V

This is quite the tolerance in Vf for these LEDs if it can be from 1.8V to 2.6V at 350mA.

Yes, it is claimed typical 2.35V at 700mA.

Then you are right, 2.35V+1.6V= 3.95V at 3A

[Hikelite]

Then let’s say cell dropped at 9A to 4.0V, 4.0-3.95=0.05V*9A = 0.45W ironically linear driver friendly.
Of course mosfet has it’s own RDSon, there is a sense resistor, etc, so maybe 3.9V might be more realistic than 4.0V at 9A

[battery]

In some Intl Outdoor threads I’ve seen posts talking about possible headlamps. Now is that something that Hank has actually considered or is it strictly a want from the community?

[Frostcream]

@hodor

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

[Lux-Perpetua]

Hank, if you have a chance to read this thread anytime soon, please also check your quality control with the D18 flashlight. Just before the K9.3 I also ordered another D18 (sand, SST20-DR) from you.

First of all, the D18 is absolutely awesome, making an insanely bright wall of deep red light. But the battery tube has so many sharp edges inside, it damaged two of three of my Samsung 29E batteries after using them for only one quick test. These batteries now have deep scratches or scraped areas. :-(

[Lux-Perpetua]

@trakcon

I don’t have the K9.3, but I just tested my Anduril 2 D4V2 Ti for about 20 minutes and it doesn’t seem to have this bug.

Thanks for checking. The Flashoholic tested his K9.3 and confirmed the same bug. I suppose it must be a firmware bug in K9.3 only. I am not sure when ToyKeeper will be back to investigate the problem. In the meantime I can only recommend to not using the faulty AUX Beacon light mode if you use the electronic lockout.

[Rayoui]

Luckily, it’s easy to physically lock out this light with a quick quarter turn of the tail cap. On lights where this is possible (non tail e-switch lights with anodized threads) I usually use this method simply because it’s faster. You lose the aux lights though.

[Garik_F]

So, I assume that 219c will be never restocked, sad to see that, one of my favourite emitters

[puglife2]

sorry to be this guy but E21A > 219c

[ArtieT59]

@MoreLumens

Could someone explain a bit about those E21A’s vs. 219b/c. How many lumens they give out and are they throwier, more efficient or stuff like that?

+1 please. But I have a good feeling their output is less. I remember seeing the claimed lumens on the e21a d4 at 1200 lumens, I seem to remember hanks site saying the 219 b/c was higher ?

[contactcr]

In the K9.3 at the top of the ramp (9A) the E21A is probably 20-25% less output but better spectrum (higher CRI) and better tint (below/near BBL). Even if the LED is more throwy by itself it wont be in a light because they generally use wide lenses for E21A to make the beam nicer.

If you consider the 219C may also be able to go into direct drive or partial FET then the difference in output will be greater.

[trakcon]

@Frostcream

@hodor

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

[ArtieT59]

@trakcon

@Frostcream

@hodor

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

That has worked wel for me too. My KR1 has always had this issue. My kr4 has never had any issues. Ever. Been dropped a lot too.

[Frostcream]

@trakcon

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

Hmmm, I have 12 KR4s but only had issues with two of the latest Tis. I was going to sand the inner tubes this evening to hopefully rectify the issue. I’ll report the results later.*

EDIT Sanding the tube made no difference. It was actually pretty smooth to begin with. Heavily lubing the threads kind of helped, for a couple screwdowns, issue still persists.

What causes this problem? It makes me dislike the lights with this issue tremendously. I won’t even use them. I didn’t buy about 30 Hanklights this year because they’re janky, flaky and fiddly, but because of the opposite.

[Thefossilchannel]

@Lightenzaza

@Thefossilchannel

I think I also ordered a floody optic with it

I’m curious to what you receive, please let me know . The e21a is shipped with the 10623 ( floody ) by default ( i think ) . We will see if adding an extra floody optic gives you an 10622 ( regular ) or double floody .

I recieved my d4v2 and made a video reivew about and you can see both the optic shipped and the extra floody optic i purchases are different. Emisar D4v2 All Copper E21A nichia 3500k overview this is the thread for the video and my thoughts. I do have one question as i noted in the video. when I set my floor to lowest, when I ramp from low to high and then high to low it turns off the leds completely but keeps my aux lights on in the e switch. is this normal in the aunduril softwar for this light? Also I noticed I do not have memory mode as the light when clicked once will come back on in step 2 of the stepped ramp configuration default. thanks!

[Kona_G]

Acme (square cut) threads are less forgiving when screwing mating parts together. Under spring pressure amplifies the difficulty

If you try assembly without cell do you have same issue?

Btw, what 18650 cells are you running 30Q?

@Artiet59

@trakcon

@Frostcream

@hodor

I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

That has worked wel for me too. My KR1 has always had this issue. My kr4 has never had any issues. Ever. Been dropped a lot too.

[Kona_G]

Has anybody received machining flaws in D4V2 Cu… and does it run Anduril 2.0 ??

I had my sights on ordering my first light from Hank, but after reading posts in this thread I’m having second thoughts