+1 please. But I have a good feeling their output is less. I remember seeing the claimed lumens on the e21a d4 at 1200 lumens, I seem to remember hanks site saying the 219 b/c was higher ?
In the K9.3 at the top of the ramp (9A) the E21A is probably 20-25% less output but better spectrum (higher CRI) and better tint (below/near BBL). Even if the LED is more throwy by itself it wont be in a light because they generally use wide lenses for E21A to make the beam nicer.
If you consider the 219C may also be able to go into direct drive or partial FET then the difference in output will be greater.
Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.
Hmmm, I have 12 KR4s but only had issues with two of the latest Tis. I was going to sand the inner tubes this evening to hopefully rectify the issue. I’ll report the results later.*
EDITSanding the tube made no difference. It was actually pretty smooth to begin with. Heavily lubing the threads kind of helped, for a couple screwdowns, issue still persists.
What causes this problem? It makes me dislike the lights with this issue tremendously. I won’t even use them. I didn’t buy about 30 Hanklights this year because they’re janky, flaky and fiddly, but because of the opposite.
I recieved my d4v2 and made a video reivew about and you can see both the optic shipped and the extra floody optic i purchases are different. Emisar D4v2 All Copper E21A nichia 3500k overview this is the thread for the video and my thoughts. I do have one question as i noted in the video. when I set my floor to lowest, when I ramp from low to high and then high to low it turns off the leds completely but keeps my aux lights on in the e switch. is this normal in the aunduril softwar for this light? Also I noticed I do not have memory mode as the light when clicked once will come back on in step 2 of the stepped ramp configuration default. thanks!
The issue only occurs when a cell is in the light, they can’t power on by themselves without one. I use 30q or VTC6 only for 18650 tubes.
Speaking of tubes, I swapped the inner tube with one from a good light and the issue remained, in one of the two KR4 Ti with this issue. Then I swapped to an 18350 and the issue is no longer present.
In the other defective unit, I swapped just the inner tube and it actually fixed that light.
I honestly don’t know what causes this.
In other news, my 6th D18 arrived today. I haven’t had any issues with this model whatsoever. common browser resolutions
Could you please check the inner edges of the battery tube? The edges in mine are razor-sharp and damaged the shrink wrap of my batteries. I did not have this issue in an earlier D18 I bought several months ago.
^ Sounds like the inner tube edges are not chamfered enough, or more than likely skipped…
If you don’t mind losing a little ano on that edge, its pretty easy to do yourself with a deburring tool
Frostcream, the point of threading without battery is to see if it’s the cut threads are screwed up, or just the added tension screwing you up (: