21700 D4KTi COLORFUL version is available

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Lux-Perpetua
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trakcon wrote:
 I don't have the K9.3, but I just tested my Anduril 2 D4V2 Ti for about 20 minutes and it doesn't seem to have this bug.

Thanks for checking. The Flashoholic tested his K9.3 and confirmed the same bug. I suppose it must be a firmware bug in K9.3 only. I am not sure when ToyKeeper will be back to investigate the problem. In the meantime I can only recommend to not using the faulty AUX Beacon light mode if you use the electronic lockout.

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Luckily, it’s easy to physically lock out this light with a quick quarter turn of the tail cap. On lights where this is possible (non tail e-switch lights with anodized threads) I usually use this method simply because it’s faster. You lose the aux lights though.

Garik F
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So, I assume that 219c will be never restocked, sad to see that, one of my favourite emitters

puglife2
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sorry to be this guy but E21A > 219c Davie

ArtieT59
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MoreLumens wrote:
Could someone explain a bit about those E21A’s vs. 219b/c. How many lumens they give out and are they throwier, more efficient or stuff like that?

+1 please. But I have a good feeling their output is less. I remember seeing the claimed lumens on the e21a d4 at 1200 lumens, I seem to remember hanks site saying the 219 b/c was higher ?

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contactcr
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In the K9.3 at the top of the ramp (9A) the E21A is probably 20-25% less output but better spectrum (higher CRI) and better tint (below/near BBL). Even if the LED is more throwy by itself it wont be in a light because they generally use wide lenses for E21A to make the beam nicer.

If you consider the 219C may also be able to go into direct drive or partial FET then the difference in output will be greater.

trakcon
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Frostcream wrote:
hodor wrote:
I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

ArtieT59
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trakcon wrote:
Frostcream wrote:
hodor wrote:
I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.


That has worked wel for me too. My KR1 has always had this issue. My kr4 has never had any issues. Ever. Been dropped a lot too.

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

Frostcream
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trakcon wrote:

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.

Hmmm, I have 12 KR4s but only had issues with two of the latest Tis. I was going to sand the inner tubes this evening to hopefully rectify the issue. I’ll report the results later.*

EDIT Sanding the tube made no difference. It was actually pretty smooth to begin with. Heavily lubing the threads kind of helped, for a couple screwdowns, issue still persists.

What causes this problem? It makes me dislike the lights with this issue tremendously. I won’t even use them. I didn’t buy about 30 Hanklights this year because they’re janky, flaky and fiddly, but because of the opposite.

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Lightenzaza wrote:
Thefossilchannel wrote:

I think I also ordered a floody optic with it


I’m curious to what you receive, please let me know . The e21a is shipped with the 10623 ( floody ) by default ( i think ) . We will see if adding an extra floody optic gives you an 10622 ( regular ) or double floody .

I recieved my d4v2 and made a video reivew about and you can see both the optic shipped and the extra floody optic i purchases are different. https://budgetlightforum.com/node/76170 this is the thread for the video and my thoughts. I do have one question as i noted in the video. when I set my floor to lowest, when I ramp from low to high and then high to low it turns off the leds completely but keeps my aux lights on in the e switch. is this normal in the aunduril softwar for this light? Also I noticed I do not have memory mode as the light when clicked once will come back on in step 2 of the stepped ramp configuration default. thanks!

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Acme (square cut) threads are less forgiving when screwing mating parts together. Under spring pressure amplifies the difficulty

If you try assembly without cell do you have same issue?

Btw, what 18650 cells are you running 30Q?

Artiet59 wrote:
trakcon wrote:
Frostcream wrote:
hodor wrote:
I feel your pain, I recently received some lights which had some blemishes out the box. Not significant enough to raise it but still enough to take the shine out of what I consider a more premium product.

I hate have to report here, but I feel that Hank’s business is having trouble with keeping QA as tight as it used to be with the massively increased demand.

I now have 2 KR4 Ti that randomly turn on when screwing in the tailcap, one even initiates ramp config during tailcap screwdown if I don’t screw the cap on very slowly.

I’ll look the other her way for now, as the other nearly 30 lights have been pretty close to perfect.

Most of my KR’s behave like this if I don’t carefully hold them very straight while reassembling them. To avoid this, I’ve started just slightly loosening the head while screwing the tail on, and then retightening the head.


That has worked wel for me too. My KR1 has always had this issue. My kr4 has never had any issues. Ever. Been dropped a lot too.
Kona G
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Has anybody received machining flaws in D4V2 Cu.. and does it run Anduril 2.0 ??

I had my sights on ordering my first light from Hank, but after reading posts in this thread I’m having second thoughts

Frostcream
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Kona G wrote:
If you try assembly without cell do you have same issue?

Btw, what 18650 cells are you running 30Q?


The issue only occurs when a cell is in the light, they can’t power on by themselves without one. I use 30q or VTC6 only for 18650 tubes.

Speaking of tubes, I swapped the inner tube with one from a good light and the issue remained, in one of the two KR4 Ti with this issue. Then I swapped to an 18350 and the issue is no longer present.

In the other defective unit, I swapped just the inner tube and it actually fixed that light.

I honestly don’t know what causes this.

In other news, my 6th D18 arrived today. I haven’t had any issues with this model whatsoever.
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Lux-Perpetua
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Frostcream wrote:
(...) In other news, my 6th D18 arrived today. I haven't had any issues with this model whatsoever.

Could you please check the inner edges of the battery tube? The edges in mine are razor-sharp and damaged the shrink wrap of my batteries. I did not have this issue in an earlier D18 I bought several months ago.

Frostcream
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Lux, this new D18 is the same as all my others in terms of build quality.

The edges inside are crisp, but not overly so. I gently load the cells so they don’t get chafed in any way, but no excessive caution is required.

Kona G
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^ Sounds like the inner tube edges are not chamfered enough, or more than likely skipped..
If you don’t mind losing a little ano on that edge, its pretty easy to do yourself with a deburring tool

Frostcream, the point of threading without battery is to see if it’s the cut threads are screwed up, or just the added tension screwing you up (:

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Hank, take a look at this post

Fictional D4V3

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Kona G
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D4V3 21700 big brother 4x W2 could be fun?

adam7027
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MoreLumens wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
I hope that there will be a more compact version of K9.3. Maybe like K4.1or something that uses single 21700 and head which is not much bigger than that. Would be nice edc-size and getting 660 nm red and white in same package or like W2 in the middle and some floody good around it.

I just leave this here too. Wink

For this, a LEDiL solution I think worthy to consider:
https://www.ledil.com/product-card/?product=C13483_ANNA-40-7-S
https://www.ledil.com/product-card/?product=C13484_ANNA-40-7-M

Suitable as both K6.1 or K4.3

Optics diameter is around 40mm, but only ~11mm tall.

hodor
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I’m holding out for tint ramping Innocent

Chatika vas Paus
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id30209 wrote:

Hank, take a look at this post


Fictional D4V3

It’s ugly Sick

D4S 21700 would be better, not only in appearance.

kiriba-ru S2+ and S21a spacers are available in EU. PM me. A few details here

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^ my thoughts too. The d4 is A perfect size for what it is meant for. Small EDC that fits well in the pocket. The KR4 21700 would Get my business..

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

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It looks nice, would look a bit better with more cooling fins on the head, like at least 1-2 if not 3.

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I just wish there was an upgraded D4s with lighted switch. Precious metals, sure, doesn’t matter. I know now that I have a d4 (brass) with a lighted switch I wouldn’t buy an aluminum version with a regular switch. It pains me that the D4sV2 switch is so nice (functionally) but isn’t lighted. It’s just a nice extra. Emisar does have the nicest side switches of all my lights though.

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

Alex1503
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Is there any problem changing lens on D4V2 Ti? I want to buy extra lens but not confident about changing it by myself.

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I just want a TiCu KR1………

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Hank sent me a message about the K9.3 lockout bug, so I investigated and fixed it. Weirdest bug I’ve seen in Anduril so far. Still not sure what exactly causes it, but it acts like a compiler bug or something. If I simply add some extra no-op instructions in the affected code path, the issue goes away.

It’s weird because it only affects the K9.3, even though the lockout and aux LED code is exactly the same on a bunch of other lights. Also weird because it goes directly from lockout to “off”, and there is no code path which does that any more. So that would suggest it’s rebooting, but it doesn’t do the boot-up blink. Also weird because only lockout is affected; the same configuration works in the regular “off” mode.

A steady color works fine in the low or high modes, and every pattern (including blinking) works fine in disco / rainbow / voltage modes, but a single color blinking fails:

1 ColorDiscoRainbowVoltage
Offpasspasspasspass
Lowpasspasspasspass
Highpasspasspasspass
Blinkingfailpasspasspass

But that “fail” becomes a “pass” if it has a few more bytes of padding, if it takes a few clock cycles longer to run.

Updated builds:

I doubt it’s a compiler bug, since those are very rare in practice. I probably did something wrong… but I haven’t been able to figure out what. So I hope to give it a more proper fix if I can confirm what’s causing it. Would be helpful to build it pre-fix on other platforms, to check if the compiler version is relevant. The buggy version was built with gcc-avr 1:5.4.0+Atmel3.6.1-2 from Debian.

Also, code for the K9.3 is now available in the anduril2 branch.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Hank sent me a message about the K9.3 lockout bug, so I investigated and fixed it. Weirdest bug I’ve seen in Anduril so far. Still not sure what exactly causes it, but it acts like a compiler bug or something. If I simply add some extra no-op instructions in the affected code path, the issue goes away.

It’s weird because it only affects the K9.3, even though the lockout and aux LED code is exactly the same on a bunch of other lights. Also weird because it goes directly from lockout to “off”, and there is no code path which does that any more. So that would suggest it’s rebooting, but it doesn’t do the boot-up blink. Also weird because only lockout is affected; the same configuration works in the regular “off” mode.

A steady color works fine in the low or high modes, and every pattern (including blinking) works fine in disco / rainbow / voltage modes, but a single color blinking fails:

1 ColorDiscoRainbowVoltage
Offpasspasspasspass
Lowpasspasspasspass
Highpasspasspasspass
Blinkingfailpasspasspass

But that “fail” becomes a “pass” if it has a few more bytes of padding, if it takes a few clock cycles longer to run.

Updated builds:

I doubt it’s a compiler bug, since those are very rare in practice. I probably did something wrong… but I haven’t been able to figure out what. So I hope to give it a more proper fix if I can confirm what’s causing it. Would be helpful to build it pre-fix on other platforms, to check if the compiler version is relevant. The buggy version was built with gcc-avr 1:5.4.0+Atmel3.6.1-2 from Debian.

Also, code for the K9.3 is now available in the anduril2 branch.

Glad to see you back ToyKeeper, i think we did not see you around for a while, thank you for fix!

trakcon
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Hank sent me a message about the K9.3 lockout bug, so I investigated and fixed it. Weirdest bug I’ve seen in Anduril so far. Still not sure what exactly causes it, but it acts like a compiler bug or something. If I simply add some extra no-op instructions in the affected code path, the issue goes away.

It’s weird because it only affects the K9.3, even though the lockout and aux LED code is exactly the same on a bunch of other lights. Also weird because it goes directly from lockout to “off”, and there is no code path which does that any more. So that would suggest it’s rebooting, but it doesn’t do the boot-up blink. Also weird because only lockout is affected; the same configuration works in the regular “off” mode.

A steady color works fine in the low or high modes, and every pattern (including blinking) works fine in disco / rainbow / voltage modes, but a single color blinking fails:

1 ColorDiscoRainbowVoltage
Offpasspasspasspass
Lowpasspasspasspass
Highpasspasspasspass
Blinkingfailpasspasspass

But that “fail” becomes a “pass” if it has a few more bytes of padding, if it takes a few clock cycles longer to run.

Updated builds:

I doubt it’s a compiler bug, since those are very rare in practice. I probably did something wrong… but I haven’t been able to figure out what. So I hope to give it a more proper fix if I can confirm what’s causing it. Would be helpful to build it pre-fix on other platforms, to check if the compiler version is relevant. The buggy version was built with gcc-avr 1:5.4.0+Atmel3.6.1-2 from Debian.

Also, code for the K9.3 is now available in the anduril2 branch.

Good to see you!

Lux-Perpetua
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Is there any way to safely (non-destructively) dismantle the USB charging circuit if I wanted to reach the positive terminal of the battery tube, i.e. the opposite side of what you see on the picture? Call me a cleaning maniac but I frequently clean contact parts like springs, brass buttons, tube ends etc. with alcohol to have the lowest possible contact resistance between battery and circuitry. Fiddling with a cotton swab in the tube's obscurity is maybe not the best solution. Wink

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