Same but also with tint ramping. I wonder if the code could be modified to push the LEDs harder. 8000 Lumens should be possible with 21 of these. I doubt it’s running in direct drive as the vf is way too low for that. Someone should test for PWM at max output.
Just tried the USB-C charging and I think the body could use some revision here. Many of my cables would only just barely fit in the hole and seemed to not fit snugly. If it were widened by a couple millimeters I think it’d be a lot more compatible.
seconded, I would buy it. I also want higher efficiency driver, copper body too, even if it’s $200.
I like this light, but it gets hot fast, and the light is unfocused enough it’s not useful in outdoors photography without more output.
It really needs more heat sinking and dissipation, along with more output. Something like ROT66, but even bigger with thicker copper body, maybe even a fan!
I measured it (ymmv, I have no lightbox and spectro is old/low end):
(I have no idea what’s with the measurements - I think the duv should be a good bit higher than measured, it looks more neutral than 219b. I was getting errors from spotread for some odd reason, and moving the light/colormunki changed the results a lot, as did the power level. In any case, I think it’s a big improvement over 219b.)
anduril2 ships in muggle mode (max 2300), did you turn on advanced ui?
How did you calculate 8000 lumens?
I calculated the lumen using Nichia’s Esttool spreadsheet assuming NVSLE21A_R9080 sm455 with junction temp 100deg C, optical efficiency loss at 15% (including bezel loss), electrical efficiency loss 10, and 21 emitters running at 1.00A and the resulting output is 5,144 lumens. Now keep in mind if testing with lumen tubes, very floody lights, especially mules, will read a bit lower than actual output because the side spill doesn’t hit the diffuser plate directly and gets wasted. I’ve done much experimenting with the Texas Ace lumen tube and I estimate wide flood lights lose anywhere from 8 to 20 % of actual output.
If we were to use the NVSLE21A_R70 sm455 with the same parameters, it would be making 7,127 lumens. Usually the actual amps that can be achieved in a flash light is a good bit lower than the rated max amps of the battery so assuming 21A current should be a reasonable assumption. Maybe a little conservative but noone’s measured the current in the NOV-MU.
DUV of –0.0077 seems right if you say it is not as rosy as the 219b sw45k. At what mode did you I measured? With the KR4 E21A 4500k mule, I measured a DUV of –0.0125 on turbo and even that didn’t seem as rosy as the sw45k.
highest ramp (2300lm) I think is the one I saved and posted.
The DUV measured lower than my 219b E07. Which makes me wonder if the heat up here hasn’t messed with the colormunki or something.
I measured about –0.014 duv on one of my sw45k running turbo. But on lower modes, it is no where near that rosy
My NOV MU has a flicker on turbo and slight “whine”on turbo with a Samsung 50E cell, but none of that is present with a Samsung 40T cell. Is this due to the 40T being able to supply more amps and the design of the driver in this light?
Mine has a slight flicker on the lowest setting with a 40T. It’s really only visible with the diffuser attached though.
I was wondering, can we hook this up to any USB C charger? There is absolutely no standard, some have up to 18V, I think it might be what killed the port on the Lumintop.
On what lights did you measure 8-20% loss? I’ve never owned a mule myself but I think the NOV-Mu having the LEDs in the centre and close to the glass should minimise the output loss. As for the 8000Lm…I calculated it by using the numbers from TAs test of the emitter but I think his was only 90 cri. I also assumed they won’t be much output loss since it had no optics. What is meant by electrical efficiency loss? Does this still apply in direct drive?
I measured many floody lights and mules in the past. My collection is probably over 400 lights. For example, the lumen output of the Meteor M43 without optics (mule) measure less than with optics. Optics normally kill 15% optic or so. Another example is the MT03 measures less lumens than the MT09R despite they have the exact same driver and LED. You need a truly integrated sphere like Maukka’s to capture all the light.
Do you receive yours yet?
They send me fake or wrong tracking number. I will check post office next week, and then open PP dispute.
I just picked it up from post office, but I could only inspect it for a brief time for now.
The unanodized threads will be dangerous, because this light can literally burn holes.
Lockout through UI is possible, but I would still prefer to have a manual lockout option as well.
I am very satisfied overall with the NOV-MU (except the unanodized threads).
The accessories set is generous:
- there were a (maybe not fully complete, but still) very detailed description included about the Andúril 2 UI - greatly appreciated, some other enthusiast manufacturers just put the light in the box and there you go.
- the flashlight threads were not lubricated at all, but to my pleasant surprise, I found a lubrication solution included in the package.
- 18650 adapter is adequate, but mine is falling into two pieces very soon each time I fiddle with it (no problem for me though, as I will use 21700), need a bit of hand technique to use.
- there is a large spring in the tailcap, which can be replaced to a shorter connection to make this flashlight compatible with 77mm long protected 21700 batteries as well. I won’t try it, because I prefer the unprotected ones, but for anybody considering to use this light with those batteries, this option can be a good solution.
- the included lanyard is long and adjustable, not limiting me in any way.
- the diffusor is included in the package by default, which is also a bit tricky to put on, but overall nicely made.
The soldering work is very nice and clean, emitters sit almost perfectly, where they are intended to be - it is very good to look at the emitter array. To be honest, I never had any mule flashlight before, so I am amazed at this almost hemispheric beam profile - but this is way too floody for most of my use cases, so it is mostly an indoor option. On the other hand, if there would be a sturdy headband for it, this flashlight could be also a fabulous choice for close range hand working, not only photography.
I picked up two of these to keep in my camera back to use as fill lights. Seems like they will serve that function perfectly, and with interchangeable batteries I don’t have to worry about carrying chargers or bulky external battery packs.
I do wish the tail threads were anodized so I could lock out mechanically when I toss them in the bag, but with Anduril 2’s lockout timer, it’s not too much of an issue.
I also don’t care too much for the switch. It’s fine, and it works, but it’s a little mushy. One of my units has a little hint of a click on the side switch while the other has none at all. Not really a huge problem for my use case, just an observation.
Despite being a relatively large array, this light still acts as a point source without some kind of umbrella or diffuser, so there are some hard shadows. But the light is even and the color rendering is great. Overall, it seems like these are going to be great lights to use for some fill for macro or portraits!
Hi all,
Did any of you get a confirmation after placing your order?
I only have the Paypal Payment Confirmation….
For my latest two orders, I received a confirmation email from FireFlies as well with the tracking number, but with variable delays (didn’t check, how many days later).
Had to get this one too, although after getting the mule-version of the KR4 with E21’s, I think I have enough mules for now. Still waiting the E12R to arrive…
Haven’t really tested them properly yet, the initial impresson is very good. The feel of the switch could be better, seems kinda “hard” to press.
Workmanship seems better than on previous FF-lights, although I have been very happy with them, too… and the way my little special-requests have been handled.