Received my copper KR1 today, its great. i know this is probably too heavy for some, but i am 100% ok with it. i was worried that i picked the sst40 emitter, but i have been messing with it the last 3 hours of darkness and its a great all around edc beam in the KR1 – 5000k, very nice spill, throws very well (i feel better then the claimed 29KCD), and takes well over 2 minutes to heat up on turbo. i don’t know if the extended turbo is the heavy copper body, the emitter, or both but its great. heres some pics for those who care. finish is beautifully done. Also, shipping was incredible. got it to CT, USA in 15 DAYS! my quickest shipment from China in the last year. I didn’t pay extra for fast shipping.
its really not as dramatic in real life, i used whatever the “stock” setting is on an Iphone 12.. I see what you’re saying, and maybe it is like that to the naked eye, but with my normal setting (woods, tree lines, etc) it is hard to notice such things as tint shift. then again i am not the most preceptive in these matters. Also, for what its worth, the spill isnt quote that bright either, i think the phones camera was compensating in some areas.. i probably shouldn’t post beam shots really bc i don’t know the right way to take the photo. i don’t want to discount the light by taking a crap photo.
now the xhp50 5000k emitter – that is some tint shift..
Yesterday, my second K9.3 ("HighCRI") arrived at my door. Its configuration is grey body, amber switch light, CH1 E21A 2000K 98CRI, CH2 SST20 4000K 95CRI. Unlike my first K9.3 mentioned here before, this one is flawless. I noticed Hank has designed quite a large inner tube diameter to even allow 22700 batteries like Molicel M50A. That's a nice move since some 21700 batteries are actually larger than 21mm in diameter.
Since Emisars and Noctigons always like to flock together, I could not help but to order another cyan D4v2 with E21A 2000K 98CRI which also arrived in perfect condition.
Yesterday, my second K9.3 (“HighCRI”) arrived at my door. Its configuration is grey body, amber switch light, CH1 E21A 2000K 98CRI, CH2 SST20 4000K 95CRI. Unlike my first K9.3 mentioned here before, this one is flawless. I noticed Hank has designed quite a large inner tube diameter to even allow 22700 batteries like Molicel M50A. That’s a nice move since some 21700 batteries are actually larger than 21mm in diameter.
Since Emisars and Noctigons always like to flock together, I could not help but to order another cyan D4v2 with E21A 2000K 98CRI which also arrived in perfect condition.
Bottom line: Color me happy again
Beautiful lights Lux! Glad to hear they’re good quality. All of mine have been perfect… interestingly, I saw SST20 4000K for the first time today on my new D4SV2 and I love it. Nice soft color for an outside walk
I’m loading my cart with a D4V2 and I’m wondering about choosing the 2700K version.
Any major cons of these leds in this flashlight? My first option was going to be the XP-L HI V3 3A 5000K.
Any information is appreciated
I don’t have any info on the e21 2700k in the d4v2, but I have the sst20 2700k in a c8 style thrower and it has surprising range and brightness for such a warm tint. I love it in that thrower, abd it has made me consider it in the KR4 when I previously would’ve never considered it
I’m loading my cart with a D4V2 and I’m wondering about choosing the 2700K version.
Any major cons of these leds in this flashlight? My first option was going to be the XP-L HI V3 3A 5000K.
Any information is appreciated
I don’t have any info on the e21 2700k in the d4v2, but I have the sst20 2700k in a c8 style thrower and it has surprising range and brightness for such a warm tint. I love it in that thrower, abd it has made me consider it in the KR4 when I previously would’ve never considered it
Thanks for your feedback Artiet59!
I guess that in a C8 the behaviour of this led will be a bit different, as these will be under optics! Still, it is good to know that the brightness vs tint is good.
My main concerns are regarding heating (compared to XP-L HI) and also about these leds having some “greenish” trail as others SST20 leds have. I would like not having it, hence my question.
Today received my green D4sV2. i never thought the day would happen, for 6 months i was convinced (because hank told me) that hank wasn’t making anymore green D4sV2 but now i have one. 4000k, it is awesome! throwy and bright!
Side Note- the green is much different then i thought it would be and i like it more than i thought i would. really almost looks gray, very subtle.
Also, this was my second order from hank in the last month that from the day of order to arrival at my house in CT, USA that took 15 days! really happy with hanks shipping times.
Hank site says «The new batch D4V2 does not have lanyard hole for better hand comfortableness, if you need lanyard attachment hole, please send us an email.» – is this true? Do someone have D4V2 from new batch and can post a picture?
Just got a new cyan D4Sv2 and noticed there is no more mid-ramp blink when switching between regulated and FET output. Old D4Sv1 and all my D4/D4v2 have it (aside from the e21a of course), wondering if this is due to a driver difference in the new model? or was it taken out of anduril? Can anybody confirm their recent batch D4Sv2 do/don’t have the blink?
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
led_400 wrote:
noticed there is no more mid-ramp blink … was it taken out of anduril?
A lot of build targets have had the mid-ramp blink removed. Sometimes it’s useful, but quite often, people just think it’s a bug. As drivers get better, the blink gets less relevant, so a lot of lights don’t have it.
The blink makes sense on an original D4. It’s a FET+1 design, and the top of the +1 happens roughly halfway between floor and ceiling. They’re at 65/150 and 120/150.
On D4S v1, it used a FET+3 design, so the channel changes at a higher point. It’s at 83/150. It’s a little awkward there, but still somewhat useful.
On D4S v2, it uses a FET+3+1 design and the top of +3+1 is even higher, at 93/150. When ramping up, this puts the mid-ramp blink right next to the ceiling blink, which is kind of annoying. So when I was removing blinks from lights which didn’t really need it, the D4S v2 was updated too.
If you want it back, enable the “BLINK_AT_RAMP_MIDDLE” option in the code.
Hank site says «The new batch D4V2 does not have lanyard hole for better hand comfortableness, if you need lanyard attachment hole, please send us an email.» – is this true? Do someone have D4V2 from new batch and can post a picture?
I’d really like a 21700-body for my D4S’s. At a reasonable price I think they’d sell like hot cake.
It really wouldn’t take much to make the K1/K9.3 battery tube fit. They’re very close in size and the threads look the same
And if I squeeze hard enough, it works!
Hank site says «The new batch D4V2 does not have lanyard hole for better hand comfortableness, if you need lanyard attachment hole, please send us an email.» – is this true? Do someone have D4V2 from new batch and can post a picture?
Hank is in short supply of the holes.
Haha
I actually have noticed that no matter what lanyard I use on my 9.3’s or D4SV2’s, it doesn’t sit easily on the tail cap when I set it on a flat surface pointing up at the ceiling. I always have to monkey around with the lanyard to get it to sit flat
Hank site says «The new batch D4V2 does not have lanyard hole for better hand comfortableness, if you need lanyard attachment hole, please send us an email.» – is this true? Do someone have D4V2 from new batch and can post a picture?
Must be pretty recent. I just ordered a D4v2 one month ago, and it has the hole. Not that I have any plans to use it, so hole or not, wouldn’t matter to me.
hank, are the D4V2 (black and grey) out of stock?
Will they be available again anytime soon?
Thanks!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// OL Contest 2022 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2 / 3
This! + xp-l hi 5D and 219c 4000k
kiriba-ru S2+ and S21a spacers are available in EU. PM me. A few details here
Received my copper KR1 today, its great. i know this is probably too heavy for some, but i am 100% ok with it. i was worried that i picked the sst40 emitter, but i have been messing with it the last 3 hours of darkness and its a great all around edc beam in the KR1 – 5000k, very nice spill, throws very well (i feel better then the claimed 29KCD), and takes well over 2 minutes to heat up on turbo. i don’t know if the extended turbo is the heavy copper body, the emitter, or both but its great. heres some pics for those who care. finish is beautifully done. Also, shipping was incredible. got it to CT, USA in 15 DAYS! my quickest shipment from China in the last year. I didn’t pay extra for fast shipping.
Thanks Hank!
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Terrible tint shift on that sst40.
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its really not as dramatic in real life, i used whatever the “stock” setting is on an Iphone 12.. I see what you’re saying, and maybe it is like that to the naked eye, but with my normal setting (woods, tree lines, etc) it is hard to notice such things as tint shift. then again i am not the most preceptive in these matters. Also, for what its worth, the spill isnt quote that bright either, i think the phones camera was compensating in some areas.. i probably shouldn’t post beam shots really bc i don’t know the right way to take the photo. i don’t want to discount the light by taking a crap photo.
now the xhp50 5000k emitter – that is some tint shift..
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Have you seen this?
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/76271
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
I hope I’ll be able to be around more. For now though, I’m still dealing with some issues which keep me away most of the time.
Nice to see you back our Lumen Goddess
We all hope that you can deal with the issues so that you can be on BLF more!
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // raccoon's light reviews
Yesterday, my second K9.3 ("HighCRI") arrived at my door. Its configuration is grey body, amber switch light, CH1 E21A 2000K 98CRI, CH2 SST20 4000K 95CRI. Unlike my first K9.3 mentioned here before, this one is flawless. I noticed Hank has designed quite a large inner tube diameter to even allow 22700 batteries like Molicel M50A. That's a nice move since some 21700 batteries are actually larger than 21mm in diameter.
Since Emisars and Noctigons always like to flock together, I could not help but to order another cyan D4v2 with E21A 2000K 98CRI which also arrived in perfect condition.
Bottom line: Color me happy again
wow they look so pretty together.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
When for D4 or Kr4 with custom mixed tint selectable dual channel? Would Be nice alternative of IF25 With E21A leds
What is a new style clip for KR4 made from? It is much less magnetic than an original clip.
could be a Stainless Steel with less iron content, would be my guess.
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Beautiful lights Lux! Glad to hear they’re good quality. All of mine have been perfect… interestingly, I saw SST20 4000K for the first time today on my new D4SV2 and I love it. Nice soft color for an outside walk
I’m loading my cart with a D4V2 and I’m wondering about choosing the 2700K version.
Any major cons of these leds in this flashlight? My first option was going to be the XP-L HI V3 3A 5000K.
Any information is appreciated
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// OL Contest 2022 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2 / 3
I don’t have any info on the e21 2700k in the d4v2, but I have the sst20 2700k in a c8 style thrower and it has surprising range and brightness for such a warm tint. I love it in that thrower, abd it has made me consider it in the KR4 when I previously would’ve never considered it
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Thanks for your feedback Artiet59!
I guess that in a C8 the behaviour of this led will be a bit different, as these will be under optics! Still, it is good to know that the brightness vs tint is good.
My main concerns are regarding heating (compared to XP-L HI) and also about these leds having some “greenish” trail as others SST20 leds have. I would like not having it, hence my question.
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// OL Contest 2022 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2 / 3
Today received my green D4sV2. i never thought the day would happen, for 6 months i was convinced (because hank told me) that hank wasn’t making anymore green D4sV2 but now i have one. 4000k, it is awesome! throwy and bright!
Side Note- the green is much different then i thought it would be and i like it more than i thought i would. really almost looks gray, very subtle.
Also, this was my second order from hank in the last month that from the day of order to arrival at my house in CT, USA that took 15 days! really happy with hanks shipping times.
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Hi Hank, will Nichia 219C be available again?
I sure would love a E21 2000K D4sV2
Hank site says «The new batch D4V2 does not have lanyard hole for better hand comfortableness, if you need lanyard attachment hole, please send us an email.» – is this true? Do someone have D4V2 from new batch and can post a picture?
Just got a new cyan D4Sv2 and noticed there is no more mid-ramp blink when switching between regulated and FET output. Old D4Sv1 and all my D4/D4v2 have it (aside from the e21a of course), wondering if this is due to a driver difference in the new model? or was it taken out of anduril? Can anybody confirm their recent batch D4Sv2 do/don’t have the blink?
A lot of build targets have had the mid-ramp blink removed. Sometimes it’s useful, but quite often, people just think it’s a bug. As drivers get better, the blink gets less relevant, so a lot of lights don’t have it.
The blink makes sense on an original D4. It’s a FET+1 design, and the top of the +1 happens roughly halfway between floor and ceiling. They’re at 65/150 and 120/150.
On D4S v1, it used a FET+3 design, so the channel changes at a higher point. It’s at 83/150. It’s a little awkward there, but still somewhat useful.
On D4S v2, it uses a FET+3+1 design and the top of +3+1 is even higher, at 93/150. When ramping up, this puts the mid-ramp blink right next to the ceiling blink, which is kind of annoying. So when I was removing blinks from lights which didn’t really need it, the D4S v2 was updated too.
If you want it back, enable the “BLINK_AT_RAMP_MIDDLE” option in the code.
Awesome! Thanks ToyKeeper
Hank is in short supply of the holes.
I’d really like a 21700-body for my D4S’s. At a reasonable price I think they’d sell like hot cake.
It really wouldn’t take much to make the K1/K9.3 battery tube fit. They’re very close in size and the threads look the same
And if I squeeze hard enough, it works!
Haha
I actually have noticed that no matter what lanyard I use on my 9.3’s or D4SV2’s, it doesn’t sit easily on the tail cap when I set it on a flat surface pointing up at the ceiling. I always have to monkey around with the lanyard to get it to sit flat
Must be pretty recent. I just ordered a D4v2 one month ago, and it has the hole. Not that I have any plans to use it, so hole or not, wouldn’t matter to me.
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