Hank site says Ā«The new batch D4V2 does not have lanyard hole for better hand comfortableness, if you need lanyard attachment hole, please send us an email.Ā» - is this true? Do someone have D4V2 from new batch and can post a picture?
Just got a new cyan D4Sv2 and noticed there is no more mid-ramp blink when switching between regulated and FET output. Old D4Sv1 and all my D4/D4v2 have it (aside from the e21a of course), wondering if this is due to a driver difference in the new model? or was it taken out of anduril? Can anybody confirm their recent batch D4Sv2 do/donāt have the blink?
A lot of build targets have had the mid-ramp blink removed. Sometimes itās useful, but quite often, people just think itās a bug. As drivers get better, the blink gets less relevant, so a lot of lights donāt have it.
The blink makes sense on an original D4. Itās a FET+1 design, and the top of the +1 happens roughly halfway between floor and ceiling. Theyāre at 65/150 and 120/150.
On D4S v1, it used a FET+3 design, so the channel changes at a higher point. Itās at 83/150. Itās a little awkward there, but still somewhat useful.
On D4S v2, it uses a FET+3+1 design and the top of +3+1 is even higher, at 93/150. When ramping up, this puts the mid-ramp blink right next to the ceiling blink, which is kind of annoying. So when I was removing blinks from lights which didnāt really need it, the D4S v2 was updated too.
If you want it back, enable the āBLINK_AT_RAMP_MIDDLEā option in the code.
I actually have noticed that no matter what lanyard I use on my 9.3ās or D4SV2ās, it doesnāt sit easily on the tail cap when I set it on a flat surface pointing up at the ceiling. I always have to monkey around with the lanyard to get it to sit flat
Must be pretty recent. I just ordered a D4v2 one month ago, and it has the hole. Not that I have any plans to use it, so hole or not, wouldnāt matter to me.
I really like that! Imagining this in one color and the tube a bit shorter, cause it wouldnāt need the chargerā¦ Would be really awesome if you ask me.
Short after I had the idea of how nice a 21700 D4S-body would be, it also came to my mind if the K9.3 body would fit the D4S head. Thanks for testing, itās a little bummer that it doesnāt fit.
Heck, I would even buy another D4S(V2) if there was an option for a 21700 body that fitās my other D4Sās.
I love the D4S for itās output and especially for the beam shape. The Ledil Angie-S is by far the best multi-emitter optic Iāve seen so far.
Iām wondering if other D4S(V2) owners would be interested and if Hank would consider offering this.
Meaning I would buy two 21700 bodies for my current D4sv2ās and another D4sv2 with that body. I love the idea of having a 21700 body for the D4sv2, WITHOUT charging. So itād be shorter than the K1 version. Thanks for posting the pic Tmaxx, looks awesome IMO
And I totally agree that the optic look and throw is a major reason I like the light so much.
Oh, and while weāre making a wishlist for Hank, an optional deep carry clip for the new 21700:D4sv2 body would be amazing
I have the 2700K SST-20 version, and I find it too warm for outdoors. Maybe around a campsite (where firelight is the main source of light) would be good. Itās a fantastic tint for indoors, though!
I will get the 2000K to try it out, though I expect it will just be for novelty. It might be nice to avoid blue-light exposure before bedtime.
I find 2700K E21A to be fairly neutral outdoors. I only really notice the light start to get warm at 2200K. I prefer warmer tones outdoors to cut glare walking around others, and to prevent insect attraction.
Although the lumens is lower with these emitters, would you say it is still sufficiently bright outdoors? Iām on the fence with my next kr4 having the e21a (2700k) or the sst20 (2700k).
I have the sst20 2700k in a c8 style thrower and it is plenty bright, so I know 4 of them would defintely be bright. I guess Iām just hesitant thinking the e21a would be less then half the lumensā¦