That auction (listed in OP) is listed as over (with 115 sold), and when I click on "see seller's other items", 0 items are listed. I wonder if it's the seller or Ebay who yanked everything? Maybe this thread had something to do with it?
Belatedly, that auction is for yet another knock-off of the Surefire 6P design... American design from American company, probably the most common copy out there. Think Ultrafire WF-504B, 503b, C1, Solarforce L2, and a bevy of others. I see no reason why it couldn't be used as a 'flashlight body' or 'host' for a P60 drop-in, unless if they glued the thread heads, which is unlikely for this model (very likely on larger designs, maddeningly, case in point my Spiderfire P7).
I agree that the 3 x AAA is probably totally false and/or a mistake. (I'd be interested in a P60 host which takes 18650 and 3 x AAA, or even just 3 x AAA, for friends not for me). I'm holding up my 504B, which this most closely resembles, and there are some cosmetic differences, but the battery tube looks to be the same width. And they show now pics of a 3 x AAA battery holder.
Some trivia/catch-up for newbies: the 6P knock-offs ARE superior to the Surefire in one important way: most of them take an 18650 lithium ion battery. The Surefire was designed on using 2 lithium primary (non-rechargeable/use once and dispose) batteries, as the design dates back to when incandescent was the only game, and the extra voltage was needed (I think they also made 3-cell/9V -- and perhaps even 4-cell/12 volt? designs). So a 100% faithful replica will be too narrow, while a knock-off which can take an 18650, can also take two 3V lithium primary cr123 batteries if that's what your module calls for. White LED's are very well-matched for single-cell lithium ion cells (4.2V) and it looks like it's going to remain that way for awhile. A tip for newbies hunting on Ebay for "P60" compatible stuff: in addition to using the "P60" search term, try "6P" and whatever other word (flashlight, drop-in; I've found "bulb" is actually a surprisingly effective term). Ebay has the best deals on Solarforce L2 bodies (no drop-in), which is the way to go if you only buy a host. I have 3 flashlights which are P60 hosts (the 2 above + a WF-501B), and of the three, the Solarforce L2 is easily the nicest, plus seemingly having the best fit from head to reflector for heat transfer (still not great). I use it more than my Spiderfire P7 due to the size... and... now that I received my XM-L drop-in yesterday, it's now officially the brightest flashlight I own, easily brighter than the P7. I haven't been able to find L2's on Dealextreme actually in stock for years, and the old ones they have listed are exorbitant (old prices I guess).
I actually bought from Ebay the L2m combo, where you can use just a single 16340 rechargeable or CR123 primary (same size), plus an extension tube to use an 18650. In retrospect, the 16340 function seems silly, b/c the heads and switches of these are so long. Nice feature but probably should've gone with the single long cheaper tube. The crenelated bezel is also annoying and I stole the smooth bezel ring from my 504B to use on it, until I decided not to use a 'lens' at all anymore. Some of the Ebay sellers who specialize in this stuff actually are reputable and seem to understand us. You can even get compatible forward clicky switch assemblies there, albeit seemingly expensive for what it is ($10+ but free shipping) (any reviews/feedback on those welcome--need to make a break from reverse clickies). I agree that Ebay does give sellers good recourse, esp with these Asian high-volume outfits. On Ebay, item description is considered to be extremely important. We in the 'torch' community, esp budget flashlight community, have learned to be tolerant of puffery, wrong specs, and blatant incompetence/false advertising. But on Ebay, item description is like sacred. And why shouldn't it be. That is the most common reason for disputes, and underneath that, bad communication. Items not showing up at all (blatent fraud/theft) is rarely the problem. I think if you have 1000 flashlights to sell, you can spend more than 10 seconds on your description and make sure it's not poppycock with outright falsehoods in the already-lacking description. Battery specs vary by drain current so it's harder to prove. But Cree provides spec sheets, so if someone is outside of Cree's claimed max, there is no dispute. The question of "out the front" vs "published maximum" is much murkier; then again, what newbie will have an integrating sphere?
Another tip for newbies to get smooth rings off: Meritline occasionally has good deals (39c/free!) on fancy so-called "anti-static" tweezers. I have one where the pickup points are curved at an angle (straight would work too I think), and it's been invaluable for removing nutty-design flashlight parts. Needle-nosed pliers can work, but often those pliers' points aren't "needle-y" enough.
More trivia: the term "P60" is from the part number Surefire designated as the interchangeable module which went into their 6P flashlight. Maybe stands for "Part 60"? So, P60 actually being a Surefire part number, the politically correct term would be "P60-compatible" drop-in ;) (not like I care, just informatively).
Anyone know of a p60 host which takes 3 x AAA (and possibly 18650 too)? Would be nice to hook up a non-flashaholic with a new-age Cree light with an upgrade path. My XM-L is brighter at .9 amps (medium; about 4 watts) than my XP-G is at 1.9 amps (on high at about 8 watts)! WTF!