Tesla and Panasonic thought it was a good size for their use. That was after using 18650s as other car makers did for many years. And now they’re moving on to the 4680. So yes nothing to do with flashlights or chargers.
It’s absolutely possible. You can’t go the other direction with some firmwares because the 13 and 25 have less flash than the 85 so for example anduril doesn’t fit.
I’m not sure what, if anything, you’d need to change, but I’m sure it can be done rather easily.
The Sw45k leds will have a nice tint but maybe only an estimated 1500-2000 lumens.
Recently I mounted three 6V 90CRI XHP50.2 with the Convoy M21C-U boost driver. Looks and works nicely. I will also put some Luxeon MZ leds in another C8F and see if I get a donut hole in the beam. However, these mods involve a bit of work.
I would not recommend XPL2 leds in the C8F because of the tint shift. The LH351D leds should be nice, they are quite rosy when dedomed.
I will post some pictures in the ‘What did you mod today?’ thread. EDIT: Pictures I used three 16mm MCPCBs. They are not ideal as I needed to cut them smaller and the leds are difficult to center. The only shop that has a 5050 MCPCB for the C8F is Cutter but they have expensive shipping to Europe. I also filed the driver a little to fit. The retaing ring needed some filing as well to not touch the outer parts on the driver.
I also thought about the EC03 for this build but you will need a copper ring or a bigger board to adapt the 22mm driver to the bigger size.
If you would slice the LH351D the 5000K are better. They give around 4200K and a rosy tint. The 4000K LH351D tent to be green. Slicing is not difficult with the right spacer. There are no bond wires on the LH351D, just don’t slice too low or the led will turn blue. I once accidentally hot dedomed a led but it was messy and exposed part of the blue die.
Just wanted to follow up on the story. Hank usually responds to emails the same day. He asked if I could reflash the driver. I didn’t have the equipment or the know-how so he said he’d send a new head. That arrived just under a month ago, just before I went on a trip. In the meantime I tried scraping off the burned material. I tried to scrape off as little as I could but I scraped too far on the most burned LED. Blue light was emitting from a small area which I could not dismiss as just a change in colour temperature. I would have been better off leaving the LEDs as is. But maybe the experience gained was worth it as the replacement head did arrive after all.
I haven’t used my resurrected D4v2 a huge amount (less than 90 minutes) as it’s not the only torch in my collection and it is still summer. But it has decent lumens and the E21A LEDs make it compelling to use for the tint snobbery alone. However I am still afraid to use turbo mode after what happened last time. I did notice the replacement head had a board of a different colour (see below). At least we can confirm the regular D4v2 board WILL burn the phosphor of E21As very quickly. As Hank sent a whole head I have a spare regular bezel and clear optic. A bit of a different Emisar experience to what I expected but Hank was willing to offer customer service and replace defective product.
Replacement (white) board versus the original (red) one.
It appears you have received the direct driver before with the E21A and that is why the LEDs burned, those 4pcs E21 cannot take direct drive.
This new driver should have the linear FET only working and have the direct drive FET disabled.
Compasses and mechanical watches are two of the only things I can think of that you really want to keep magnets away from anymore (and even then I’ve yet to magnetize or noticeably affect a mech watch by carrying any of my lights that has a magnet).
Best to keep lights with magnets away from computers with hard disks as well. Sticking your light on the chassis of a computer like that is a no-no. Same principle as magnetically destroying data on floppy disks (or credit card strips!) back in the day.
SSDs (solid-state drives) and flash memory (like USB sticks and SD cards) are fine, though.
When it comes to flashlights, the one thing I can think of to watch is if you have a light with a magnetic control ring UI. My Sunwayman V20A behaves very strangely if another magnet gets too close to it. A powerful enough magnet could conceivably damage the little magnet in the control ring (and break the light) by permanently changing its direction of magnetisation.