What did you mod today?

Thanks :beer:
Yup, the size of it is quite nice this way. To be even better, it could be slimmer to take 16650 cells (which have a reasonable capacity, even if not
so good for high-drain). THAT would be cool :wink:

Thanks g_damian :beer: Your work inspired me much in this mod, so thanks for your details too :wink:
This will be a “user” for sure, as it has a great tint, a UI that I like an can configure, and also takes a good capacity/high-drain cell :wink:

:+1:

Great mod. I especially like the pocket clip; one major obstacle for me to carrying my S2+/Jaxman E2l these days is the horrid clips I’ve got for them.

They also lose out on size to much better lights, but that’s another story.

I modded a MT35 Plus with SBT90.2 a few weeks ago. Here is the thread if you want to look. MT35 Plus with SBT90.2 mod ( GT90 kit from Texas Ace )
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22 amps on turbo
1,829,513cd
5800 lumens
2700 meter throw
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I like your mod MascaratumB. Nice job!

Thanks Scallywag :beer:
Yup, that pocket clip is quite nice, smaller and thougher than the “screw in” clips that Simon and other stores sell. AliExpress sells some nice clip, you may wanna take a look there. They are bigger than this one, though.
I forgot to mentuon that the clip was previously used in th Jaxman E3, and by that time I “flamed” it with a lighter, hence that blueish colour.

Thank you Neutral Fan :beer:
Turned out quite nice, I guess, doesn’t it ? :wink:
Not a very difficult mod, but with a nice result!!

I reflowed Nichia E17As onto a VR16SP4m board! Mic drop…

Never again will I attempt to do this. The board is a little beat up due to breaking the original E17As that were perfect from Virence, trying to reflow other E17As that went horribly bad, and then super gluing an LED spacer as an experiment.

I put very, very little soldering paste onto each of the 4 LED pads, but it was still too much. So I removed the extra solder with a toothpick while positioning each LED into place, but then 2 little solder blobs got between the LEDs. Argh! Once the board cooled down, luckily I was able to split a toothpick and pluck them away.

About super-gluing led spacers. I use a different approach.

- first I superglue a 2-3mm long part of a plastic tube around the led.
On the search for a suitable tube the outer diameter is paramount.
The outer diameter shoud fit (not tight but snug) in the hole of the reflector.
Any attempt to bring the diameter down is (in my case) a risk of it not staying circular…
The inner diameter of the tube is less critical for me as I have plenty objects to enlarge it.
I try to make the inner diameter as large as the diagonal of the die.
That should be enough to CENTER the led properly.

Then I will look for a piece of plastic to make a “shim” that I can place on the leadboard.
With the above mentioned tube poking trough. The reflector rests on the shim.
Find the correct thickness for the shim and you are able to FOCUS the led.
As a bonus, such a shim prevents the leads to short with the base of the reflector.

Unless you find the ideal centering ring it is always a bit of a wiggle to CENTER and FOCUS.
My method divides that time consuming chore into 2 separate (quite easy) actions.

Been wanting to build something like this for ages, although made a slight mistake as the driver I wanted to use were 20-22mm. So I had to find an alternative 17mm to use. Lower amps, but hoping it’ll still be quite nice. Unless anyone knows of a similar sized host that uses larger drivers?

Convoy M1. I have an original when Simon first launched these, the current version is nicer. Shorter overall, more matt anodising and different machining.

Matched with a 17mm driver and a 5000k Cree MT-G2. A big LED in a relatively little torch :smiley:

Wires soldered up:

Tidied up and driver seated and retained:

The reflector gets quite close, so to avoid any shorts some insulation of the contacts:

The reflector needed no mods, the hole was big enough for the MT-G2. Centring was a little challenging as I’m not using any kind of gasket or ring. A few tweaks to the star and screw down tight and probably a fair does of luck and it doesn’t look too bad :slight_smile:

The LED dome fits well in the OP reflector.

Final touch a deep carry pocket clip:

And we’re done!

Will have to wait until it gets dark to try it out and I’ll see if I can get come cd/lumen readings. I’m not expecting it to be a lumen monster due to the driver choice. But the beam is looking quite nice so far. I wanted something with a nice bright even beam, but with more throw than a flood TIR or aspheric lens.

Cool, will be looking for those beamshots :wink:

I’d be interested in seeing some pics if you have them.

I found super gluing the regular LED spacers, with the ends cut off, works very well.

I envy your soldering skills NeutralFan! Looking good :wink:

The Boruit BC07 is an interesting flashlight. The quality of workmanship surprised me. Although I do not like zoom flashlights, I will probably leave this one for myself.

Boruit BC07

Difficult to get decent beamshots to really show the difference.

Thought I’m compare to an XM-L2 Convoy M1:

The beam is a lot more even on the MT-G2, which was my aim. Make it more useful at closer ranges and less intense hotspot when out walking.

XM-L2:

MT-G2:

XM-L2:

MT-G2:

It still has more throw than your average tube light too. Although clearly this is a long way from a thrower.

On my setup at home I’m getting PEAK readings of

Convoy M1 MTG2 = 1209 lumens and 6358cd

For reference:

Convoy M1 XM-L2 = 745 lumens and 11,988cd
BLF A6 XP-L = 876 lumens and 5416cd
Lumintop FW21 Pro 3 x XHP50.2 High mode = 1380 lumens and 2951cd

Nice mod Chicken Drumstick. And interesting how much the M1 has evolved. I have the M1 host in my Convoy Store cart along with a bunch of other goodies.

Interesting, thank for showing this. :slight_smile:

Sorry I can’t help you right now. At “le moment suprème” the battery of my camera was empty.
In the meantime I would like you to refer to this POST where I tried to explain the build of my Fandyvoy (Fandyfire STL-V6 + Convoy C8). After charging I will try to re-take the left picture of the pill a bit better.

That post helps a lot. No need to take further pics.

Since I frost the lenses of my E17A flashlights to remove the donut holes, I don’t need to worry about focus. Does your technique work on E17As?

Too late :stuck_out_tongue:

The blackened nylon ring takes care of the centering.
A shim around the nylon ring takes care of the focussing.
This shim I have cut out of the bottom of a yoghurt cup (indeed pushing the technology envelope).

Have no experience with E17A. Only XM-L, XP-L, SST40, SST20 and white flat.

I’m trying to put an attiny85 and Anduril on a qlite driver and am running into a weird problem.

I made a few mods on the driver so the 85 would fit. I got rid of the voltage divider resistors since the 85 gets the voltage right from pin 8. But the battcheck mode in Anduril would read very high and erratic voltage readings. So then I did some creative soldering to emulate the resistor and capacitor filtering that the D4 and D1S FET+1 drivers have, where there is a 4.7ohm resistor between battery pos and the diode, and a capacitor to ground on either side of the diode. This worked and the voltage readings were stable and right on.

I was still in the process of bench testing and getting the ramp table right when the driver stopped working. It would not turn on; only giving a small blink as the button was released. Disconnecting and reconnecting power did not fix it, but letting it sit for several minutes did fix it. However, it keeps happening after a minute or so of playing with/testing the driver.

I don’t think it’s anything in the code since the problem happens with unaltered code that works fine in my D4. I also tried a different attiny85 and the same thing happens.

Anyone know what would cause this behavior?

I think my issue is resolved. I had a hunch it was a power issue; that the attiny85 was getting voltage spikes or something causing it malfunction. I was bench testing using a power supply and using a battery, but both using relatively long wires. I decided to just put the driver in my headlamp and see what happens, and it seems to be working with no problems yet. I guess the extra inductance of the long wires led to voltage spikes?

Similar problems have been observed.