The Boruit BC07 is an interesting flashlight. The quality of workmanship surprised me. Although I do not like zoom flashlights, I will probably leave this one for myself.
Nice mod Chicken Drumstick. And interesting how much the M1 has evolved. I have the M1 host in my Convoy Store cart along with a bunch of other goodies.
Sorry I can’t help you right now. At “le moment suprème” the battery of my camera was empty.
In the meantime I would like you to refer to this POST where I tried to explain the build of my Fandyvoy (Fandyfire STL-V6 + Convoy C8). After charging I will try to re-take the left picture of the pill a bit better.
The blackened nylon ring takes care of the centering.
A shim around the nylon ring takes care of the focussing.
This shim I have cut out of the bottom of a yoghurt cup (indeed pushing the technology envelope).
Have no experience with E17A. Only XM-L, XP-L, SST40, SST20 and white flat.
I’m trying to put an attiny85 and Anduril on a qlite driver and am running into a weird problem.
I made a few mods on the driver so the 85 would fit. I got rid of the voltage divider resistors since the 85 gets the voltage right from pin 8. But the battcheck mode in Anduril would read very high and erratic voltage readings. So then I did some creative soldering to emulate the resistor and capacitor filtering that the D4 and D1S FET+1 drivers have, where there is a 4.7ohm resistor between battery pos and the diode, and a capacitor to ground on either side of the diode. This worked and the voltage readings were stable and right on.
I was still in the process of bench testing and getting the ramp table right when the driver stopped working. It would not turn on; only giving a small blink as the button was released. Disconnecting and reconnecting power did not fix it, but letting it sit for several minutes did fix it. However, it keeps happening after a minute or so of playing with/testing the driver.
I don’t think it’s anything in the code since the problem happens with unaltered code that works fine in my D4. I also tried a different attiny85 and the same thing happens.
I think my issue is resolved. I had a hunch it was a power issue; that the attiny85 was getting voltage spikes or something causing it malfunction. I was bench testing using a power supply and using a battery, but both using relatively long wires. I decided to just put the driver in my headlamp and see what happens, and it seems to be working with no problems yet. I guess the extra inductance of the long wires led to voltage spikes?
It’s the same kind of led l4p uses in his rgb tails so there is no control over the colours. The low brightness setting isn’t enough to light up the blue led when that colour cycles around but on the bright setting there is no problems.
I wondered if that’s what you did, but they seem to stay in unison. I figured with multiple LEDs they’d end up fading to different colors at different times.
Yeh it’s lava lamp style with multiple leds out of sync.
The trick with this fw3a - i didn’t replace LEDs on the board rather I removed the whole board and soldered the control wires directly to a single rgb led. So technically it’s floating loose in the head.