What did you mod today?

Difficult to get decent beamshots to really show the difference.

Thought Iā€™m compare to an XM-L2 Convoy M1:

The beam is a lot more even on the MT-G2, which was my aim. Make it more useful at closer ranges and less intense hotspot when out walking.

XM-L2:

MT-G2:

XM-L2:

MT-G2:

It still has more throw than your average tube light too. Although clearly this is a long way from a thrower.

On my setup at home Iā€™m getting PEAK readings of

Convoy M1 MTG2 = 1209 lumens and 6358cd

For reference:

Convoy M1 XM-L2 = 745 lumens and 11,988cd
BLF A6 XP-L = 876 lumens and 5416cd
Lumintop FW21 Pro 3 x XHP50.2 High mode = 1380 lumens and 2951cd

Nice mod Chicken Drumstick. And interesting how much the M1 has evolved. I have the M1 host in my Convoy Store cart along with a bunch of other goodies.

Interesting, thank for showing this. :slight_smile:

Sorry I canā€™t help you right now. At ā€œle moment suprĆØmeā€ the battery of my camera was empty.
In the meantime I would like you to refer to this POST where I tried to explain the build of my Fandyvoy (Fandyfire STL-V6 + Convoy C8). After charging I will try to re-take the left picture of the pill a bit better.

That post helps a lot. No need to take further pics.

Since I frost the lenses of my E17A flashlights to remove the donut holes, I donā€™t need to worry about focus. Does your technique work on E17As?

Too late :stuck_out_tongue:

The blackened nylon ring takes care of the centering.
A shim around the nylon ring takes care of the focussing.
This shim I have cut out of the bottom of a yoghurt cup (indeed pushing the technology envelope).

Have no experience with E17A. Only XM-L, XP-L, SST40, SST20 and white flat.

Iā€™m trying to put an attiny85 and Anduril on a qlite driver and am running into a weird problem.

I made a few mods on the driver so the 85 would fit. I got rid of the voltage divider resistors since the 85 gets the voltage right from pin 8. But the battcheck mode in Anduril would read very high and erratic voltage readings. So then I did some creative soldering to emulate the resistor and capacitor filtering that the D4 and D1S FET+1 drivers have, where there is a 4.7ohm resistor between battery pos and the diode, and a capacitor to ground on either side of the diode. This worked and the voltage readings were stable and right on.

I was still in the process of bench testing and getting the ramp table right when the driver stopped working. It would not turn on; only giving a small blink as the button was released. Disconnecting and reconnecting power did not fix it, but letting it sit for several minutes did fix it. However, it keeps happening after a minute or so of playing with/testing the driver.

I donā€™t think itā€™s anything in the code since the problem happens with unaltered code that works fine in my D4. I also tried a different attiny85 and the same thing happens.

Anyone know what would cause this behavior?

I think my issue is resolved. I had a hunch it was a power issue; that the attiny85 was getting voltage spikes or something causing it malfunction. I was bench testing using a power supply and using a battery, but both using relatively long wires. I decided to just put the driver in my headlamp and see what happens, and it seems to be working with no problems yet. I guess the extra inductance of the long wires led to voltage spikes?

Similar problems have been observed.

Glad you got it working!

Sofirn SC31 Pro with Cree XMLBWT 2700K

Sofirn SC31 Pro with Cree XMLBWT 2700K

Wurkkos WK01 with Nichia 219B sw45k D200 R9080 from Bob_McBob

Wurkkos WK01 with Nichia 219B sw45k D200 R9080

Thrunite Ti3 AAA mod to N219b 3500k 9080 from azhu. Very nice tint imo :slight_smile:

Slow colour change for fw3a aux. The one on the far right

Ok, pinkpandaā€¦ do tell. How did you accomplish that?

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I second that !! :sunglasses:
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But thatā€™s a secret recipe we may never know. :wink:
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Damit 3 times Iā€™ve tried to reply now. Work keeps getting in the way :neutral_face:

Itā€™s not that techy. You know Iā€™m not good with code so I did a work around. I had an original fw3a with a lexel aux board installed (fixed colour). I removed the board and soldered this led in place - https://m.globalsources.com/LED-component/RGB-SMD-LED-1170310432p.htm

Itā€™s the same kind of led l4p uses in his rgb tails so there is no control over the colours. The low brightness setting isnā€™t enough to light up the blue led when that colour cycles around but on the bright setting there is no problems.

I wondered if thatā€™s what you did, but they seem to stay in unison. I figured with multiple LEDs theyā€™d end up fading to different colors at different times.

I remember djozz trying out something similar with tailcaps. Now that I go back and look at it, it is pretty cool even if they arenā€™t synchronized.

Yeh itā€™s lava lamp style with multiple leds out of sync.

The trick with this fw3a - i didnā€™t replace LEDs on the board rather I removed the whole board and soldered the control wires directly to a single rgb led. So technically itā€™s floating loose in the head.

Sofirn C01S Green with Cree XP-E2 Green

Sofirn C01S Green with Cree XP-E2 Green

I made a pair of S3 quad E17As 21700 flashlights - one with 2700K and the other 5700K. I got the S3 hosts from Kaidomain, the 6 amp drivers from the Convoy Store, and the Nichia E17As from Virence.

This time I used 26AWG Teflon wires (vs 24AWG silicone) which were much easier to solder to the VR16SP4m boards and to curl up into the driver cavities. The effective gauge (Wirebarn) of 2 26AWG wires is 23AWG, so good enough capacity given the 5cm lengths. I super glued the reflector spacers on to the boards to prevent any damage to the delicate E17As. The 2.5mm thick shelves do a great job dispersing heat which can be felt almost immediately when on high. There were some burrs on the shelf holes, but other than that, the hosts with included pocket clips and lanyards are of high quality.

The 21700 size is starting to push it for carrying in my pocket, but still acceptable. I had to frost 1 side of the lenses to remove the donut holes. The resulting beams have noticeable hotspots and the tints and outputs are impressive. So is the extra capacity of the 5,000mAh batteries. Iā€™m torn as to which flashlight I like better, but Iā€™m leaning towards the 5700K despite my tendency for warmer temps.