Thrunite Ti3 AAA mod to N219b 3500k 9080 from azhu. Very nice tint imo 
Slow colour change for fw3a aux. The one on the far right
Ok, pinkpanda… do tell. How did you accomplish that?
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I second that !! :sunglasses:
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But that’s a secret recipe we may never know. 
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Damit 3 times I’ve tried to reply now. Work keeps getting in the way 
It’s not that techy. You know I’m not good with code so I did a work around. I had an original fw3a with a lexel aux board installed (fixed colour). I removed the board and soldered this led in place - https://m.globalsources.com/LED-component/RGB-SMD-LED-1170310432p.htm
It’s the same kind of led l4p uses in his rgb tails so there is no control over the colours. The low brightness setting isn’t enough to light up the blue led when that colour cycles around but on the bright setting there is no problems.
I wondered if that’s what you did, but they seem to stay in unison. I figured with multiple LEDs they’d end up fading to different colors at different times.
I remember djozz trying out something similar with tailcaps. Now that I go back and look at it, it is pretty cool even if they aren’t synchronized.
Yeh it’s lava lamp style with multiple leds out of sync.
The trick with this fw3a - i didn’t replace LEDs on the board rather I removed the whole board and soldered the control wires directly to a single rgb led. So technically it’s floating loose in the head.
I made a pair of S3 quad E17As 21700 flashlights - one with 2700K and the other 5700K. I got the S3 hosts from Kaidomain, the 6 amp drivers from the Convoy Store, and the Nichia E17As from Virence.
This time I used 26AWG Teflon wires (vs 24AWG silicone) which were much easier to solder to the VR16SP4m boards and to curl up into the driver cavities. The effective gauge (Wirebarn) of 2 26AWG wires is 23AWG, so good enough capacity given the 5cm lengths. I super glued the reflector spacers on to the boards to prevent any damage to the delicate E17As. The 2.5mm thick shelves do a great job dispersing heat which can be felt almost immediately when on high. There were some burrs on the shelf holes, but other than that, the hosts with included pocket clips and lanyards are of high quality.
The 21700 size is starting to push it for carrying in my pocket, but still acceptable. I had to frost 1 side of the lenses to remove the donut holes. The resulting beams have noticeable hotspots and the tints and outputs are impressive. So is the extra capacity of the 5,000mAh batteries. I’m torn as to which flashlight I like better, but I’m leaning towards the 5700K despite my tendency for warmer temps.
Great build!
Would you mind posting a beamshot?
Here you go. I’ve alway struggled with white wall beamshots since they never look as good as what I actually see, but I understand why people want to see them. I’m sure my next iPhone will be much better, but that may be awhile.
Looks great. I don’t see and donut in the beam. Can you confirm it’s not visible also in longer distances?
agree,
to get rid of the donut, he had to frost the lens, though the photo looks like it was taken before frosting
Very nice modding work, and great photos! :+1:
What an awesome build ! Nice work! Love the 21700 host version.
I just picked up my first s3a NW and what I nice host. I did an emitter swap in my first E03 today and it was tough due to the small size but came out good. I was proud of myself and going to post it here until I just saw yours, coincidentally in a similar host LOL. I’ll admire yours and just mention mine . Nice job
I recieved my first e03 this week. Supposed to come in with NW, but accidentally shipped to me in CW. Figured I’d mod it with an extra sst20 high cri. I was surprised when I opened it in and saw a 4040 emitter in the 14mm (?) mcpcb. I should’ve know but I didn’t, so I threw in an extra sst40 5000k I had around. It’s now brighter then all of my newer 14500 lights. Looks great.
Side note- weirdly I think the ui order changed to L-M-H. I’m pretty sure it was M-L-H when I got it. I don’t know why that would’ve happened, but it’s definitely L-M-H. Also, there is a significant difference between the three modes, and originally M and H were so similar I couldn’t distinguish between the two. Anyway, love the light more now.
Original pic- compared to my NW S3a.
Now, compared to the same NW S3a (this pic was taken today, the “original” comparison was taken days ago, at night - hence the different looking cct. The emitter is the same in all of these pics in the S3a on the right)
E03 on turbo vs S3a on turbo (hard to tell, but e03 is brighter now. Again, this pic taken today during daytime)
Thanks for looking, and appreciate any feedback!
After early struggles with huge caps, etc., DEL finally solved the problem properly, first appearing in the Q8 driver, and his own OSHPark drivers --> you really need that 4.7 ohm resistor on Batt+ coming into the 85. We have it before the diode. Everything is happy after that on the scope. All new 85 drivers since 2017 have that resistor. I see it duplicated in all the Chinese Anduril, and custom firmware drivers, even many non-85 drivers.
Odd. Sounds like it’s needed almost (if not exactly) like a terminating resistor on a transmission line. Current spikes might cause reflections at the end of the line, screwing with the voltage the little beastie sees.
There definitely aren’t any donut holes at any distance. The frosted lens takes care of it remarkably.
Here’s where I tested just to see if I got lucky with this reflector, but the donut hole still appeared.
Here are the frosted lenses and a pic to check to make sure the reflector is centered.
Thanks Artiet59. And nice job on your emitter swap!
I have the 4.7ohm resistor with capacitors layed out the same as the D4 driver and still saw that behavior. But I’m not sure what the capacitor values are and the physical positioning of the components on my driver is different so maybe it is not suppressing the spikes as well.