Yes, that's all true, just like triple or quad optics, a single LED optic is the same idea. Other lights like the FireFlies E01 uses a similar optic, but may be a different design type.
However this light has a glass lens separate as shown, but doesn't look AR treated. Of course the glass lens is not necessary for the optics, actually it only reduces output probably just a couple percent, but in general it's considered a good design to use one because the glass protects the plastic of the TIR optics from getting scratched.
Ok, thank you for this info. I didn’t even think of the traces on the mcpcb… mostly, because I don’t even really know what the traces are… are they like slight grooves in the mcpcb under the sticker? Or are they wire? Sorry for the stupid question, I have often wondered how those pathways work on the mcpcb. Also- when you say you Dremel or file the edges at a 45, do you mean the holes for the tir legs? Or are you referring to when you need to redefine the traces’ pathway you file that at a 45 degree angle ?(I don’t know if redefining the traces’ pathway is a thing, or that you even implied that. Sorry I’m trying to keep up. I thought this was simpler lol).
Wish I knew all the tech jargon off the top of my head...
The traces can be seen - look at the MCPCB carefully, usually at an angle you will see them - usually bumped up, connecting the solder pads to the LED + and -. I got some pics that show them well. Some MCPCB's have thin lines, some are a fat area fill type. It's copper fill, covered over, but under that copper is a very thin insulating non-conductive layer, then the copper base is the metal core (MCPCB = Metal Core Printed Circuit Board). If you have an old MCPCB around, you should try sanding them down and you will see the layers exposed as you sand more and more off.
Yes - the holes you drill for the legs. The edges of the holes should be filed/sanded (angled, ~45 degs) only if you have a ground short. Hopefully the holes won't completely cut off a trace -- I assume they won't, so no need to redefine the pathway.
Ok, wow that is useful info, thanks! I defitnely have a couple old beat up mcpcbs I am going to sand and check out. And look for these traces. Will help me better understand what I’m dealing with. Also, it will help me map out how I am going to drill these holes. Because I assume when I have a mcpcb (like many of my convoy mcpcbs I order) that has multiple + and - pads that they all have their own traces. I also assume (a lot of assuming, I know) that as long as I don’t drill through the traces that lead to the pads I’m soldering my leads to, it won’t creat a potential short? Or does breaking the trace on any of the multiple + or - pads pathways interfere with all of the pads? I hope that question makes sense…
Oh sorry, didn't list the amps. OP updated with measured amps.
On a clamp meter with tailcap removed, measured 9.15 amps. 9 to 9.5 is about the max of an SST-40. Most of my single LED SST-40's are doing in this range on a topped off good cell and haven't had problems. I measured lumens and throw with the tailcap on, so judging by the stock springs (not so good, though doubled up), I'm sure it dropped amps somewhat, maybe down to 8.5 - 8.9 amps or so. I won't hesitate to pull the inner spring and add a 20 AWG bypass.
For the stepdown, depends on what you configure but we are not talking insane amps here, least for today's standards :FACEPALM: . I got smaller triple XHP50.2 lights that pull 30 amps. It's Anduril, so you get the standard Anduril temp regulation. Also the SST-40 is way cooler than the XHP50.2 version.
For PWM, it's Anduril, so PWM's are high frequency through the range (think ~15K), but not sure what TK does at very low, like moon - might be lower PWM, not sure.
My EA01 50.2 came today. First impression was how small it is. Calibrated the temperature and can’t wait for dark tonight to give it a whirl. Having reset capability is reassuring in case I’m ever somewhere without the directions and I need light. One question, what does a factory reset do to the temperature calibration?
Pretty sure it gets reset - think al the settings are reset.
You mean the electronics of the switch PCB? Maybe? I originally thought it was to keep all the wires from the switch from interfering with the optics, but I'm guessing.
So if it comes uncalibrated it will reset to uncalibrated?
Took mine for a walk tonight and am very pleased with the beam and CCT. The default max temp is supposed to be set to 45 but it felt hotter to me. Had to set it to 35 to keep it comfortable at top ramp. Thinking about dropping top ramp setting but first I want to see how the lower thermal max setting works out. I don’t know what is better, drop max temp or drop max ramp lumens to keep it at a sustainable level? Fun to play with. As I said before, very small. Not a lot of mass to dissipate the heat. Good throw without a discernable hot stop which is what I was after. Chewed through a 5500 mah 26650 pretty fast though.
The ring is SS so hard to scratch. But I do use a pair of needlenose that are curved on the outside so usually fit the ring notches pretty well (can't find a pic of mine). For the BLF Q8's I actually made a tool out of plexiglass material - it's a perfect fit and no scratching.
Go slow and careful though - think the SS ones can still scratch if mis-handled.
My MT01 is an SST-40 so the beam looks great. For the XHP50.2, I dunno. Last night I compared the beams of just about all my XHP50.2 3V lights and they are all ugly to me, maybe some slightly worse than others.
EA01 (tir) 5700K: rings of tint, purple dot in the center of the hot spot
EC01: (OP) 5700K: rings of tint but more blended together
FT03 (SMO) 5700K: rings of tint, yellow dot in the center of the hot spot
SP33v3: rings of tint, large yellow dot in the center of the hot spot
modded C818 (SMO, UCLp lens): rings of tint, purple dot in the center of the hot spot
EC03 (triple SMO 5700-6000K): rings of tint
FT02S (quad SMO): rings of tint
I always order a 5700K tint when available - not sure of all of them. Maybe it's the more neutral tint? Saw some think the FT03 XHP50.2 looks good, but I never saw a good beam from a XHP50.2 3V light. It's not a deal breaker for me, but it's certainly noticeable indoors or outdoors. I was planning on modding a lot more lights with the XHP50.2 3V but mostly been preferring the SST-40 5000K because of the beam.