Cool
That PCB is larger than the one I have and also larger than the original, but maybe it will dissipate heat a little better due to more contact with the pill
I also feel what you mentioned about the glue, but I didn’t do that, because in case I need to take it out again, I would struggle more :zipper_mouth_face:
Ahah, my Vapcell H10 is topped so it becomes bigger than I wanted, but I have some orange Shockli on the way, flat top, that will make the job :smiling_imp:
BTW, did you manage to use the retainingring with your driver? Was it thin enough to be put back in place?
Yes the ring is in place. It’s probably a half turn or so less threading but it’s there. I put one of those brass buttons on the bottom so only unprotected flat top 14500 fit now.
Yes, for this light and FET only driver. SS is just terrible for heat path. Gold takes 3-4x as long to get to same temp feeling. If you end up sagging that tail spring from leaving it on you are in for a world of regret Not sure if that would happen or not but seems possible?
Thanks! As I was afraid, the thermal path is terrible and there’s not much that can be done about it.
Not for me then. But I notice that there’s also a brass one with micro USB charging. 2 mm longer than steel, 1 mm smaller diameter. Worse looking.
Any more info about it? https://www.ff-light.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=74
The copper cube? if so, the one I got? Junk. Emitter was way off center. Bezel just fell out after handling it for a few minutes. Driver was trimmed down to fit, which is fine but, nobody paid attention to where the emitter was. So it’s way off center and you really can’t fix it. Oh BTW, the emitter is on the actual driver. Copper threads for the bezel and the pill are stripped in some areas and not complete in other areas. If you can get the pill out it ends up ruining the threads. Single hole in the pill looks like it was drilled out by a pissed off 5 year old.
I am debating on whether I will rebuild it myself with a actual driver and MCPCB. Or send it to a friend of mine who has more patience than I do. It wouldn’t be outrageously difficult. There is enough room for adjustment in the tail and head that I could build up an actual pill for the separate parts. Might have to go to a flat top cell only but I will cross that road when I get there.
I never contacted FF about the light. I am not complaining about their customer service or anything like that. Jackie has always treated me well in the past and present. I am sure he would have made good on this light but, honestly, I don’t want another one. They are haphazardly put together with parts that don’t seem like they belong together. I doubt I would have received a better example. So, I will decide what I want to do with it. I have a few CC AA/14500 drivers I may try. I would still have to fix the body of the light as well. Machining marks need to be taken care of.
As you can see. My sample looks nothing like the advertised light. It looks…………uh………pre broken.
Here’s the product page that lists the specs, modes, etc. Also has a picture of both sides. No sanding or anything was necessary. However, it’s a bit of a small driver for the host, so the retaining ring only held the driver from coming out, it did not keep the driver in place, there was plenty of room for it to move side to side. To solve this I just put some solder down to connect the retaining ring to the negative pad on the driver.
Just a note, the stock Nichia LED went blue and fried very quickly with this driver. I put an SST20 I had handy in there and haven’t had issues, though I could have fit a larger/better MCPCB in there if I had wanted to do it better.
The modes are great and with the stock optic I was very surprised with the amount of throw it had. The output is pretty great on high. But I don’t need so much throw, so the low mode is far too focused in my opinion, hence my desire for a wider optic.
Edit: seeing Yokiamy’s post about using a Reylight driver is interesting however. While I like everything the CWF driver offers, I wouldn’t mind having Rey’s multi-chemistry support as the CWF is 10440/14500 only.
An Olight 14500 fits the light, but the switch needs to be screwed out a couple of twists. Bye bye tailstand, hello easy operation.
The SST-20 appears a little more greenish compared to a light with this LED (kaidomain). Can by different bin, can be an effect of the glass cover. Doesn’t matter, as it is only visible in direct comparison. It’s still rosy in the light of a 2700K LH351D and compareable to an incandescant lamp.
I like the throwy characteristics of the TIR optics.
The PWM is not visible to me in the beam, but of course clearly visible when the light is moved and the eye follows the head. I can leave it as it is [until an appropriate driver falls into my hand].
All in all: I’m happy with the light. It will be with me on a couple of days this winter.
Just got mine.
I really like the UI. No bells and whistles, no mode memory, starts low. I don’t need anything more.
The light seems well made, though I haven’t looked very closely yet.
It’s my first steel light and I it ain’t light. But I knew it wouldn’t be and I accept it as it is.
I like the warm beam of 2700K SST-20. Though it could use some more lumens. Once I have more time I need to read up to see if the driver survives 14500.
Overall I don’t remember when was the last time that a light made so positive first impression on me.
Some second impressions.
Some edges are not chamfered. They feel sharp. Normally that’s not the case but when I tried to unscrew the pill from the head I wondered whether I would cut my skin. I didn’t but I didn’t succeed at unscrewing it either.
Overall it gives the light a very rough feel. I don’t think I like it really, but it’s OK.
The beam is quite throwy for EDC. I would say that it’s too throwy actually.
The TIR is far from perfect. When I look into the head from different angles I can see numerous imperfections. But they are not visible in the beam so I’m OK with that.
The light is really toughly built. Seems that the walls are really thick everywhere. This surprises me considering the light is still small for AA clicky.
Interesting to hear about the throw. I selected a 219 version and find it virtually indistinguishable from my SST-20 4000k lights, tint wise… but the beam is a nicely balanced broad pattern with both spot and flood.
Got mine with the SST20 4000K, very nice tint and definitely high CRI. I do have some issue with the clicky-button as it is not very precise and can be pressed to come under the retaining ring but I’ll probably get used to it. The PWM is fast enough for my brain so not a problem for me.
I’ve kept it in my trousers’ pocket for the past month.
Some more impressions:
Yeah, access to the light is much better than to the one on my neck….as long as I’m wearing trousers. I guess I had access to it 50% of the time I needed a light, so it can’t replace my neck light.
The throwiness ain’t great for close up use. But it’s usable.
The switch is far too stiff for my liking
The rough finish doesn’t matter at all in everyday use.
Not sure if that would happen or not but seems possible?
