Oh sorry, didn't list the amps. OP updated with measured amps.
On a clamp meter with tailcap removed, measured 9.15 amps. 9 to 9.5 is about the max of an SST-40. Most of my single LED SST-40's are doing in this range on a topped off good cell and haven't had problems. I measured lumens and throw with the tailcap on, so judging by the stock springs (not so good, though doubled up), I'm sure it dropped amps somewhat, maybe down to 8.5 - 8.9 amps or so. I won't hesitate to pull the inner spring and add a 20 AWG bypass.
For the stepdown, depends on what you configure but we are not talking insane amps here, least for today's standards :FACEPALM: . I got smaller triple XHP50.2 lights that pull 30 amps. It's Anduril, so you get the standard Anduril temp regulation. Also the SST-40 is way cooler than the XHP50.2 version.
For PWM, it's Anduril, so PWM's are high frequency through the range (think ~15K), but not sure what TK does at very low, like moon - might be lower PWM, not sure.
My EA01 50.2 came today. First impression was how small it is. Calibrated the temperature and can’t wait for dark tonight to give it a whirl. Having reset capability is reassuring in case I’m ever somewhere without the directions and I need light. One question, what does a factory reset do to the temperature calibration?
Pretty sure it gets reset - think al the settings are reset.
You mean the electronics of the switch PCB? Maybe? I originally thought it was to keep all the wires from the switch from interfering with the optics, but I'm guessing.
So if it comes uncalibrated it will reset to uncalibrated?
Took mine for a walk tonight and am very pleased with the beam and CCT. The default max temp is supposed to be set to 45 but it felt hotter to me. Had to set it to 35 to keep it comfortable at top ramp. Thinking about dropping top ramp setting but first I want to see how the lower thermal max setting works out. I don’t know what is better, drop max temp or drop max ramp lumens to keep it at a sustainable level? Fun to play with. As I said before, very small. Not a lot of mass to dissipate the heat. Good throw without a discernable hot stop which is what I was after. Chewed through a 5500 mah 26650 pretty fast though.
The ring is SS so hard to scratch. But I do use a pair of needlenose that are curved on the outside so usually fit the ring notches pretty well (can't find a pic of mine). For the BLF Q8's I actually made a tool out of plexiglass material - it's a perfect fit and no scratching.
Go slow and careful though - think the SS ones can still scratch if mis-handled.
My MT01 is an SST-40 so the beam looks great. For the XHP50.2, I dunno. Last night I compared the beams of just about all my XHP50.2 3V lights and they are all ugly to me, maybe some slightly worse than others.
EA01 (tir) 5700K: rings of tint, purple dot in the center of the hot spot
EC01: (OP) 5700K: rings of tint but more blended together
FT03 (SMO) 5700K: rings of tint, yellow dot in the center of the hot spot
SP33v3: rings of tint, large yellow dot in the center of the hot spot
modded C818 (SMO, UCLp lens): rings of tint, purple dot in the center of the hot spot
EC03 (triple SMO 5700-6000K): rings of tint
FT02S (quad SMO): rings of tint
I always order a 5700K tint when available - not sure of all of them. Maybe it's the more neutral tint? Saw some think the FT03 XHP50.2 looks good, but I never saw a good beam from a XHP50.2 3V light. It's not a deal breaker for me, but it's certainly noticeable indoors or outdoors. I was planning on modding a lot more lights with the XHP50.2 3V but mostly been preferring the SST-40 5000K because of the beam.
Shoot, forgot bout the SD05 - I got one too. That center dot thing happens in reflectors too, but sometimes purple, sometimes yellow - weird. Again, wonder if it's the tint or maybe focusing... Haven't played around with it enough.
Nice! Think someone at work printed me a 3D tool as well, but with so many different lights and switch sizes, 3D printing is not a good option for me unless it's super easy and fast.
Tom, did you you see vietnamreviews EA01 disassemble video? The forward side of the driver was also covered with clay. Maybe for potting? I was wondering if it could be the source of the current leakage?
It's a weird one, close coworker tested positive, couple days ahead of me, 102 temps for 9 days, lungs issues now, 3 PCR tests all negative. CT scan showed covid damage in lungs. So many classic symptoms but no positive test. Also pneumonia. Oxygen stayed above 90 though, and did not lose taste.