FireflyLite E12R 12*emitters 15000LM 1x21700 Flashlight

It’s more like a candle flicker (random) but faster, not like a fixed frequency flicker (e.g. from a slow PWM), so it’s not showing the stroboscopic effect. On mine it’s not very pronounced though.

Yes, I noticed when pulling one of mine at the end of a runtime test but before it shut off. It’s almost like it can’t decide between being 1 lumen and 1 1/2 lumens. Like you’ve said, it’s likely caused by that low of a sense voltage when the current is that low. Not a big deal in my book but if you use your light at the lowest of modes very frequently it might be more of an issue.

Part of the reason some people may not notice it is because the default floor is at Level 3 (config link). If you were to change the floor config to be Level 1, you might be more apt to notice it.

Actually I think I was on level 2, I must have not configured it correctly the first time. On level one the flickering is really obvious.

Thank you thefreeman for explain what happen
I think we don’t use E12R in moon mode full day but in small cases for read in the night it would be nice… now there is mini candle flicker party mode in level 1 :smiley:
I hope they find a solution for future project
I have measure 0.45 uA from off and 6.2 mA in level 1

I try every led I buy directly with multimeter in diode mode. I never measure the current but is very very very low… probably under minimal technical specification and I never see flicker.

I’m really on the fence about the E12R, right now leaning towards buying it but I’m seeking some advice/opinions.

I already own an EC01 and FTO2S (sst20×4) and I love both and use them daily at work and home. I’ve read through a good portion of this thread and it’s obvious I know far less than a lot of people here when it comes to specifics like driver and emitter differences. I understand lumens and candela, flood/throw but not much else.

Any light I buy from now on has to have charging capabilities and at least be brighter or have more throw than my Astrolux EC01. I also think the FTO2S is about the thickest light I want because anything thicker wouldn’t fit in my magnetic flashlight holder I use at work, silly, but for the price of a good light I’m allowed to be picky!

I see that a lot of the people who bought the E12R didn’t go for the highest lumen emitters and I wonder why? This light obviously isn’t a thrower so why not get the absolute brightest flood? If not for all my reading here that’s exactly what I would’ve done. I figure if it’s no brighter than my FTO2S what’s the point. Is there any specific reason I shouldn’t choose the highest lumen option?

E12R isn’t about the highest lumens - it’s component & build quality, LED options and a hint of novelty.

I used to think max flood or max throw was everything but now have a bunch of light purchased solely on one or more of quality, tint and novelty. The price of some ‘pretty’ lights could have gotten me thousands more lumens - Reylight Pineapple(s), Enogear AA & TC8 Titanium & GT Micro Cu. Some 500 lumen torches are $500-$1000 or more.

EC01 & FT02S are great bang for buck lights, I have FT02S w/ XHP50 but sometimes an S2+ with SST20 2700K in a striking body color will do just as well.

First of all, welcome to BLF! :-)

I must admit I do not have the E12R (yet). However, I suppose many people did not choose to buy the highest output version because:

  • tint color / CCT is important to many members, i.e. anything above 5000K is considered as (too) cold-white.
  • color rendition (CRI) has become more and more important to many members, i.e. XP-L2 and SST20 6500K as best performing emitters have to be ruled out
  • E12R's highlight is not the most-possible output but the fully regulated output at up to 6A thanks to Loneocean's driver.
  • Jacky offers emitters that many competitors don't, e.g. Nichia 219B SW45K R9080 4500K with its outstanding spectrum properties and color rendition.

If you are after maximum turn-on lumens only, I'd recommend buying something like EC03 or comparable with 3-4 XHP50.2 emitters.

I once had a low cri high output CREE that showed green as almost gray and horse piss/poo puddle as clear water. Even marginally above average CRI emitters like 219C could show the piss puddles for what they were: red, murky and nasty. That same cree light was my thow light, but I can shoot just fine at coon blasting range (120yd max) with a ~25% weaker overdriven SST20 C8 with a bit less candela on it. I’d obviously rather have a higher output high cri focused beam, but it seems it won’t happen. The lower CCT and better rendering let you react faster to targets tbfh… blue, purple and green lights are a crime, outdoor light should never have a CCT over 5000, ideally less.

Especially obnoxious with high CCT light is fog is way more apparent…

I used to buy almost every single ultra high output light but stopped because of the cheap direct drive driver that are meant as toys rather than tools. The EC01 and FT02S are direct drive FET driver lights that has no hardware regulation and highly inefficient. Even FF’s previous generation lights used similar drivers so I hardly used them. These new series of FF lights uses the highly efficient Loneocean designed LUME driver. That is one of several main reason why I’m so excited about FF’s new lineup. They can also hold a very practical output for day to day use whereas other FET driver lights will just see output continuously dropping along with the battery’s voltage.

People like CRI because once you compare FF’s high CRI (besides the LH351D 4000K), you will see how much nicer and more welcoming the light renders your surrounding compared with low quality lighting. If you want high output, I recommend the E12R 5700k 80CRI. It will have high output but at least not piss poor color compared with the typical low cri CW lights.

I am a little more then green when it comes to flashlights, and I am on the fence with buying this light. Are people having unique problems or finding small glitches with this light? I’ve read some posts on this thread that worry me as I do not know how to work on or fix a buck or boost driver. This light looks awesome, but if it is “finicky” because it’s the first generation and the driver is very complex, I don’t know if I want to take a gamble on a light that is $100. I am Wiingnto admit if this light is too complex for me and maybe too novelty for the average user like myself? Or am I wrong and most people finding this light robust and working well? Please help if you can, those who own it. Thanks!

Also known Emisar and Noctigons and originally had issues with not knowing the intricacies of those lights but have come to realize how to use lights like that. So I have some baseline knowledge.

Basically, is this light fun and enjoyable or are the potential snafus aggravating for people? Sorry if I am off base here. Like I said, I am very interested in this light. I just like to use my lights a lot. And want something that is a good solid type of light, not a shelf queen. . Thanks again

I really like mine (in transparency: a review sample). I don’t have any actual problems with mine. The lowest default modes does have a very slight flicker. I’m not sure I’d notice it if someone hadn’t mentioned it. And the switch feels different… not necessarily bad, it’s just different. Oh, and some people that are really used to Anduril 1 will have a few mental adjustments for Anduril 2. I think those are the only negatives I can come up with. I don’t feel like the E12R is a novelty at all. It’s legitimately a really nice light.

Thank you gchart. I definitely appreciate your feedback.

If I want nice tint- would you recommend Nichia or sst20 or Samsung?

I’m super happy with mine so far (219B). The lowest 2 levels have a visible flicker. Neither of the low levels are a proper moonlight mode anyways, so setting the base to level 3 instead of 1 or 2 makes no difference to me, and it gets rid of the flicker.
If you like 4500K, go for the Nichia all the way. Tint will look great at all levels.
Between the Samsung and SST20 in 4000K, that’s a more difficult decision. Although the Samsung is technically brighter, SST20 has significantly more throw and will appear brighter in majority of cases, unless you are ceiling bouncing. I find SST20 Color rendering to be a touch better as well.
The Samsung would be my pick if you are wanting to go as floody as possible.

Very helpful, thank you! I have sst20 4K in other lights and like it, but may go 4500 nichia. Definitely between those two now. I like the thrower idea.

Based on Ledil/Carclo optic specs, the 219B has more throw than 219C, and is actually quite similar to SST20.
I had a hard time deciding between the two, but no regrets with 219B. It has a better tint overall, and only 500K CCT difference. At times it can feel a touch cool as I usually go for 4000K as my go to Neutral White, but your eyes adjust quickly to the slightly cooler CCT. I find my eyes have a harder time adjusting to Warmer CCT’s if already adapted to cooler.

On snow and white surfaces, the 219B will appear pure white.

Will you guys be doing this light in Copper?

later

My E12R review is in.

tl;dr: I’m a big fan

Great review, gchart, thanks!

Your numbers are lot more like what I hoped they would be. 2022 lm at 4,3 A with that light quality is just pure awesomeness.

Also a big fan. Curious about the short tube. I didn’t get one. Is yours a free reviewer sample? When did it ship?