Yes, the only way I like the XP-G3’s are with the 10511 optic, the tint mixes very well and they actually look quite nice. Just a slight tint shift on the very edge IIRC but not enough to bother my very picky standards in most situations.
The 10511 optic is floody but I would consider it the ideal combo of flood and throw if you have the lumens to force it to longer ranges. At the sub ~20 feet range most EDC lights are used in, it is perfect. For longer range work you do need more lumens to light it up but it gives nice even light that is very useful. I have been very happy with the optic since I swapped to it outside of not enough lumens since going to SST-20’s.
I think I will order some 351D’s but keep looking for other options. I am real hesitant to shave a dome for my own use, I have yet to see a shaved LED I could stomach but this could be the exception based on the spectrum tests.
Worst case I can go with XP-G3’s again, just have to find a source with good tints. The 5700/3000/4000 combo I ran last time was pretty nice.
Also might try some 219C’s if I can find some good ones. Tint is obviously better and if I dropped to 80 cri I should get similar output.
I am guessing that the XP-G4 rumors I heard about are just rumors?
Hmm, forgot about the 50.2 3v option. Last I checked there were not any high cri versions of the 3V models. Has that changed? Or any other 3V multi-die LED’s on the market?
I would actually be real interested in a 50.2 high cri 3v, or at least a 3D tint. I have an optic that I think would work great with it.
What don’t you like about shaved domes?
Other than a small output loss, I only see positives with the 351Ds. Don’t shave too close. I like to leave ~1mm of dome.
I agree that some LEDs have too many negatives with a shave.
You do have me interested in trying tint mixing XP-G3s with a frosted TIR. What is your favorite mix to get ~4500k?
If you’re currently using a 10511 w/XP-G3, then LH351D - especially in an unfrosted optic - should really be an improvement. 90CRI versions likely won’t get you any bump in output, but the temp and CRI options are much better.
I’ve heard some bins of the 80CRI versions dont have good tint but they may be an option worth trying out for even more output.
Nearly everything is better, than XP-G3, if we also count useful beam.
LH351D is super floody, but there is also LH351C and LH351B, which are correspondingly less powerful and have smaller LES. I think, LH351C could be comparable to XP-G2, and it has a similar CCT range in 90 CRI as the LH351D. Somehow, while many flashlight manufacturer started to use LH351D, no one of them seem to be picking up LH351C.
The tint shift just generally makes me want to vomit with shaved domes, even the ones that most people say are fine trigger me lol. The loss in output compounds the issue.
Yes, 4500k is my ideal tint if I can manage it. Tint mixing is something I am a big fan of, I find tint mixed LED’s just generally look better and “fuller”. They also generally have a lower duv then a single tint setup.
Far as what tints to use to get that, whatever I can get basically. I do try to use as far away as possible tints as they seem to give the best results. Such as 2700k/5700k/5000k or 2700k/6500k/4000k.
Mostly it depends on what I can get my hands on. Also got to factor in the bins of the LED’s, not uncomman to have to use a 70cri 5700k with a higher bin, in which case I will use lower tint in the others to make up for it.
Yeah, I am willing to step down to 80cri to get higher output as long as the tint is good. Tint mixing while technically it doesn’t increase CRI it sure does trick the human eye into thinking it does in most cases.
Just did a quick search on the 351C and maukka seems to show it having a very positive duv? That is a big turn off for me, I am super sensitive to the puke green hue.
Actually looked up maukkas test on the 351D and saw it also has a pretty positive duv, this might of been why I rejected it after testing it.
Shaving the 351D does not cause tint shift problems to my eyes.
Tint moves lower in temp and duv. Spill to spot tint shift is actually less.
4000k and 5000k are from AEDe group buy (from awhile back) all appear to have -DUV after shaving.
I was lucky to buy several of each in that group buy.
351Ds from Digikey and KaiDomain required shaving to get them close to bbl, and tint mixing to get below.
The 2x5700k + 1x3500k in my FW3 mix to a very slight pink. A little cooler than the SST-20 4000k.
The SST-20 is pinker on turbo, much much greener on lower modes than the tint mixed 351D.
I haven’t sampled any from Convoy.
A quick look at what is available in XP-G3…
- In hi CRI, similar output to 351D, but uneven tint problem flip chips are known for. Not an issue in frosted optics (as you know).
In low CRI, similar output to XPL HI, but again, uneven tint. I find the tint shift from spill to corona to spot of an XPL HI to be my limit.
Good info, not sure where to get the XP-G3’s now days. Last time I bought them was back in ~2016. I never bothered ordering more as I figured something better would be around by now lol.
As far as I know, the XP-G3’s have not been getting much appreciation in flashlights due to green tint and tint shift across the beam. The same for XP-L2’s.
Maukka tested both the XP-G3 and the LH351D in a triple emitter light here. I think you should take a look:
I think the LH351D is likely your best option at this time if you want a little more overall light than SST-20’s, but it is floodier.
For maximum output, of course, you have to go for the low CRI version, but I’m not sure how the tint is on those.
Boaz has small quantities of minus green filters on offer in the want to sell thread if you want to improve overall tint. There is a slight output loss as a result.
Sounds like TexasAce wants max output. CRI is not as important for him.
I think your best bet is a light with multiple XPL Hi. Throws much further than LH351d with genarally brighter output. Still floods enough for close in use.
XPL Hi also blows the socks off SST-20. It is much brighter.
So it seems that there have not been much advancement in LED’s over the last 2 years when you boil it down is what I am getting. On one hand that makes it easier since I have experience with most of the LED’s from back there. On the other hand a bit disappointing lol.
LH351D’s are worth considering, just worried that with the extra flood they will not net me the increase in output/throw I am looking for over the SST-20.
I am assuming that good tint 3v XHP50.2’s are not a thing still as well?
I’ll pile on and say if there’s one all around champ IMO it’s the sliced 351D’s. In triples, nothing is really ‘throwy’ except 1mm² emitters like the NM1 (which is something everyone should try out btw with a 10511). SST20s are maybe 40% throwier, but unless you get the top flux bins the amp for amp throw advantage isn’t huge.
Luxeon V2s can offer good tint at lower CRI and good output I hear. KD has 3500K 80CRI 351Ds that while floody, probably pump out the lemons. XPL HI is really good too at this CRI-flux-luminance intersection. I’m not sure about 80CRI bins of Samsung emitters. 219C/319A are getting hard to find, and might not offer any advantages over an XPL, but on paper they compare okay.
BTW, contactr + SKV + the freeman, has anyone tested the FA3 K2 that MTN has or know what Richards source was?
TA, what form factor and host(s) are you trying to fill? I really have gotten away from triples and big domed emitters for EDCs because beyond a ~10° FWHM I don’t find much of a usefulness of any more ‘flood’ until it is ALL flood, ie no hotspot at all, and that’s for close up use imo, best served in a headlamp. My EDC is a FW1A with a sliced SST20 4000k (probably 600lm OTF max?) and a light pebbled 21mm TIR. I’m getting a ~10° fwhm beam with nearly no spill. This way all the lumens are there. Nothing blinding me in the periphery or foreground means I can use lower power and overall less light to get the same visibility. To be clear, it is nice to have a walloping turbo with tons of lumens for room scanning and the like, but for now there just isn’t a setup that does both well IMO while offering neutral CCTs and positive R9 in a bezel size below ~35mm.
Moving up to the D4S on the other hand is where things come together. Cd/lm and a scorching turbo all in one (larger) package.
I am using a convoy S8 host. Not sure what degree the 10511 is but I find it to be pretty much ideal in most use cases at mid power levels. Then I have turbo for times I need more light.
I would say 90% of uses are at ~500 lumens or less but having the ability to go 3000 lumens that other 10% of the time has proven more useful then I thought it would.
Worst case I can go back to the XP-G3 setup I had before assuming I can still find them. I know it gives the output and beam I want, the tint is just not as nice as other options naturally.
An XP-G3 with less tint shift and better selection of high CRI tints would be the ideal LED for me. Well within reason, just doesn’t seem to exist yet lol. Maybe the XP-G4 will prove to be it.
