I once had a low cri high output CREE that showed green as almost gray and horse piss/poo puddle as clear water. Even marginally above average CRI emitters like 219C could show the piss puddles for what they were: red, murky and nasty. That same cree light was my thow light, but I can shoot just fine at coon blasting range (120yd max) with a ~25% weaker overdriven SST20 C8 with a bit less candela on it. I’d obviously rather have a higher output high cri focused beam, but it seems it won’t happen. The lower CCT and better rendering let you react faster to targets tbfh… blue, purple and green lights are a crime, outdoor light should never have a CCT over 5000, ideally less.
Especially obnoxious with high CCT light is fog is way more apparent…
I used to buy almost every single ultra high output light but stopped because of the cheap direct drive driver that are meant as toys rather than tools. The EC01 and FT02S are direct drive FET driver lights that has no hardware regulation and highly inefficient. Even FF’s previous generation lights used similar drivers so I hardly used them. These new series of FF lights uses the highly efficient Loneocean designed LUME driver. That is one of several main reason why I’m so excited about FF’s new lineup. They can also hold a very practical output for day to day use whereas other FET driver lights will just see output continuously dropping along with the battery’s voltage.
People like CRI because once you compare FF’s high CRI (besides the LH351D 4000K), you will see how much nicer and more welcoming the light renders your surrounding compared with low quality lighting. If you want high output, I recommend the E12R 5700k 80CRI. It will have high output but at least not piss poor color compared with the typical low cri CW lights.
I am a little more then green when it comes to flashlights, and I am on the fence with buying this light. Are people having unique problems or finding small glitches with this light? I’ve read some posts on this thread that worry me as I do not know how to work on or fix a buck or boost driver. This light looks awesome, but if it is “finicky” because it’s the first generation and the driver is very complex, I don’t know if I want to take a gamble on a light that is $100. I am Wiingnto admit if this light is too complex for me and maybe too novelty for the average user like myself? Or am I wrong and most people finding this light robust and working well? Please help if you can, those who own it. Thanks!
Also known Emisar and Noctigons and originally had issues with not knowing the intricacies of those lights but have come to realize how to use lights like that. So I have some baseline knowledge.
Basically, is this light fun and enjoyable or are the potential snafus aggravating for people? Sorry if I am off base here. Like I said, I am very interested in this light. I just like to use my lights a lot. And want something that is a good solid type of light, not a shelf queen. . Thanks again
I really like mine (in transparency: a review sample). I don’t have any actual problems with mine. The lowest default modes does have a very slight flicker. I’m not sure I’d notice it if someone hadn’t mentioned it. And the switch feels different… not necessarily bad, it’s just different. Oh, and some people that are really used to Anduril 1 will have a few mental adjustments for Anduril 2. I think those are the only negatives I can come up with. I don’t feel like the E12R is a novelty at all. It’s legitimately a really nice light.
I’m super happy with mine so far (219B). The lowest 2 levels have a visible flicker. Neither of the low levels are a proper moonlight mode anyways, so setting the base to level 3 instead of 1 or 2 makes no difference to me, and it gets rid of the flicker.
If you like 4500K, go for the Nichia all the way. Tint will look great at all levels.
Between the Samsung and SST20 in 4000K, that’s a more difficult decision. Although the Samsung is technically brighter, SST20 has significantly more throw and will appear brighter in majority of cases, unless you are ceiling bouncing. I find SST20 Color rendering to be a touch better as well.
The Samsung would be my pick if you are wanting to go as floody as possible.
Very helpful, thank you! I have sst20 4K in other lights and like it, but may go 4500 nichia. Definitely between those two now. I like the thrower idea.
Based on Ledil/Carclo optic specs, the 219B has more throw than 219C, and is actually quite similar to SST20.
I had a hard time deciding between the two, but no regrets with 219B. It has a better tint overall, and only 500K CCT difference. At times it can feel a touch cool as I usually go for 4000K as my go to Neutral White, but your eyes adjust quickly to the slightly cooler CCT. I find my eyes have a harder time adjusting to Warmer CCT’s if already adapted to cooler.
On snow and white surfaces, the 219B will appear pure white.
How many?
Post some links with the many dead ones because I have not seen just the guy that thought his mule was dead and was working after he cleaned it.
I don’t think your rationale is sound. You are getting a super advanced super high tech light for $100. Not to mention with a programable software based interface and electronic switch. Not to mention, you have the choice of emitters. What did $100 get you 10 years ago? Likely a 500 lumen light with just an on/off button that you would not even take for free today.
Todays lights including this one are technological marvels.
I feel like the “flicker” is getting blown out of proportion. Does it exist? Sure. But it’s not something I really notice. Under 20 lumens, I can tell it’s there when white wall hunting. Above that, or in a “walking around” kind of situation, and it’s no longer apparent/present.
Here’s a video I just took to give you an idea of what’s going on. This is at the lowest default level, 4.5 lumens. The first 3 seconds are normal speed, the rest of the video is 8x slow motion.
