What did you mod today?

That's strange. The resistor has been the single thing to make the big difference. Looking at the Lumintop EDC18 driver (same design as the FW3A) last night. I noticed 3 caps of 3 different sizes to ground - this is a common for reducing spikes. The one cap, we use across the MCU V+ and V- should be as close as possible to the pins - I know DEL emphasized that, posted here:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/39069/1103

This refers to C2, the 0.1 uF cap, schematic:

A lot is explained in DEL's driver thread's OP here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/44006

C8F 21700 + D4v2 driver + dedomed dogfarts :slight_smile:

Depending on battery max current draw is between 8A and 12A.

Reflector of 21700 version seems to be worse than 18650 version, there are some faint rings (visible only on white wall):

It does not look a lot bigger than 18650 brother but it feels more chunky because of diameter and tube texture:

Difference in tint is obvious:

Work in progress pics:

Button leds are connected to red channel:

D4v2 driver was 1mm too wide, so almost drop in replacement :wink: And the main feautre - flashing pads!

Here is the test with old 30Q and temperature limit set to 50C. Turbo lasts over 4 minutes. It stabilizes around 2A:

Album with all pictures

I managed to modify configuration so lighted button works, dim in first 4 levels, can be configured dim or bright in lockout mode. hwdef-Emisar_D4v2_c8f.h and cfg-emisar-d4v2-c8f.h

Thanks. My attiny85 on qlite mod had mostly been working fine, but there were a couple instances of strange behavior where I had to disconnect the battery for awhile to let it “reset”.

Here is how I made the circuit to emulate the D4 driver.

That C1 is in the same position as the C2 in your diagram; it’s connected right to pin 8. But I found that it is a 10uF instead of the 0.1uF that is recommended. So that could have contributed to the bad behavior; it would not filter the spikes as well. I switched it out for a 0.1uF and hopefully it fixed it. I cannot reliably reproduce the bad behavior so it’s hard to tell for sure if it’s fixed. If I still see problems I will increase the R5 resistor to 10ohms.

C1 and C2 is in parallel, so i removed in my drivers 10uf as useless

I’m no expert, but from my reading, putting different capacitors in parallel can be useful for decoupling. They act at different frequency ranges.

Im using like this for E-switch

Its kind off snuber .Best way is to connect oscilloscope to see real picture.
And if you have no fet in circuit so i think you dont need that snubber at all

I don’t have an oscilloscope so unfortunately I can’t see exactly what’s going on. I was seeing lots of bad behavior when I was testing on the bench with longer wires. Then it got much better when I put it in the light. So it made me think it was a voltage spike issue. But yes, it is only 8x7135 driver so I’m not sure what’s going on.

There are some awesome mods on here, very inspiring stuff.

Im back with some more LED swaps…

1. Installed a CULPM1 in my Copper Noctigon KR1 - amazing emitter for this light, doesn’t get hot because of heavy copper.

2. Installed a xhp50.2 in my Aluminum Noctigon KR1 - great all purpose light, lumens must be around 3,000.

3. Installed a Osram CSLPM1 Green emitter in my Astrolux C8 - WOW! thats a lot of green, must throw 800 meters too, with a lot of spill.

will upload pics asap.

Yesterday I was going through my ewaste trying to salvage parts to make a flashlight test board for firmware and reflector/optic testing. And then I got sidetracked by a discovery.

It turns out those harbor freight $1 on sale flashlights use Omten 1217 clones, meaning I was able to repair the tailswitch of my old Lux Pro flashlight today instead of trying to get Fasttech to reship an order seemingly lost during CNY and finally getting the switch who knows when.

As for the test board, I have everything but the 18650 holder already, so I’ll have to post pics once I get a holder in and get it fully assembled.

I modified a green Sofirn C8F with three 6V XHP50.2 5000K 90CRI and the XHP70 boost driver of the Convoy M21C-U.

I had to drill the holes of the reflector to 8mm diameter and cover the back with Kapton Tape. The retaining ring was filed on the inside to not touch the outer parts on the driver.

The driver needed some filing as well to fit. I covered the outer parts with white thermal glue to prevent shorts.

At the moment I can use only 18650 batteries because the brass button crushes the top of 21700 cells. I will replace it with a shorter button or a spring. The leds are slightly off center. I may add centering rings as they risk accidental dedoming if I turn the bezel.

The M21C-U driver allows soldering switch leds as well. With the green leds it looks almost like the original C8F. The beam is a nice neutral white and even a bit rosy. The tint shift is not too disturbing. I really like the flashlight this way. The low mode is a bit bright and the ramping is irregular but I got enough Anduril flashlights for that.

Nothing like a Successful mod ‘Skylight’ :+1: Well planned and executed. :wink:

Today I swapped some 219b sw40 into an older D4v2 that had some pretty green SST20’s in it prior. It was sitting around for quite a while because I really didn’t want to mess with those tiny little aux wires. Well, I’m not embarrassed to admit that this task was definitely beyond my comfortable soldering skill level.

I made a decent mess of the wires but miraculously everything seems to be working (for now). We’ll see how long it lasts before the damaged wire insulators give up the ghost and the whole thing shorts and explodes.

Oh and I flashed the 219 version of Anduril 2 while I was at it.

Only pushing 5.6v versus the expected 14.4v off bench power. Same issue off 8xM35A 4S2P. Cells test good. Wires test good. Only leaves the PCB as the issue…

Skilhunt M150 V2 with Nichia 219B sw45k D220 R9080

Skilhunt M150 V2 with Nichia 219B sw45k D220 R9080

Pre-swap:

View post on imgur.com

Skilhunt M150 V2 LH351D (level 2), ReyLight Pineapple Mini 219B D220 (2%), Wurkkos WK01 219B D200 (low)

Any know how transform led switch on a Classic On/off without any parasitic current?

.

You can remove (de-solder) the resistors, the LEDs, or both (on each side). You’ll be left with a “normal” (non-illuminated) switch with no parasitic drain.

Thanks
I will try to desolder only the Leds on each side
What Happen if remains a solder bridge on Leds contacts?
Flashlight (S2+ AMC 7135 driver)

Nothing because I do not know what I am doing :person_facepalming: HELP

thx

Bad parasitic drain. You’ll have power flowing through the resistors that are left. You’re just looking to destroy that current path.

Why do it the hard way? Rather than desoldering anything, why not just take a razor or Xacto blade and cut the bridge between LED and resistor?