FireflyLite E12R 12*emitters 15000LM 1x21700 Flashlight

Thank you gchart. I definitely appreciate your feedback.

If I want nice tint- would you recommend Nichia or sst20 or Samsung?

I’m super happy with mine so far (219B). The lowest 2 levels have a visible flicker. Neither of the low levels are a proper moonlight mode anyways, so setting the base to level 3 instead of 1 or 2 makes no difference to me, and it gets rid of the flicker.
If you like 4500K, go for the Nichia all the way. Tint will look great at all levels.
Between the Samsung and SST20 in 4000K, that’s a more difficult decision. Although the Samsung is technically brighter, SST20 has significantly more throw and will appear brighter in majority of cases, unless you are ceiling bouncing. I find SST20 Color rendering to be a touch better as well.
The Samsung would be my pick if you are wanting to go as floody as possible.

Very helpful, thank you! I have sst20 4K in other lights and like it, but may go 4500 nichia. Definitely between those two now. I like the thrower idea.

Based on Ledil/Carclo optic specs, the 219B has more throw than 219C, and is actually quite similar to SST20.
I had a hard time deciding between the two, but no regrets with 219B. It has a better tint overall, and only 500K CCT difference. At times it can feel a touch cool as I usually go for 4000K as my go to Neutral White, but your eyes adjust quickly to the slightly cooler CCT. I find my eyes have a harder time adjusting to Warmer CCT’s if already adapted to cooler.

On snow and white surfaces, the 219B will appear pure white.

Will you guys be doing this light in Copper?

later

My E12R review is in.

tl;dr: I’m a big fan

Great review, gchart, thanks!

Your numbers are lot more like what I hoped they would be. 2022 lm at 4,3 A with that light quality is just pure awesomeness.

Also a big fan. Curious about the short tube. I didn’t get one. Is yours a free reviewer sample? When did it ship?

Yeah, I think they included the short tube because I was reviewing it. It’s the same one shown in the T1R thread.

they should just get rid of the FET meme, look how many 219b and e21a leds it has killed on reddit

the highest ramp (6a) is plenty of lumens

How many?
Post some links with the many dead ones because I have not seen just the guy that thought his mule was dead and was working after he cleaned it.

There is flicker on both the NOV-Mu and E12R under 20 lumens or so

Does the Lume1 FW3X driver also have the low level flickering issue?

Would be great to hear comments about this from driver author. If this is hardware limitation, imho this is unacceptable for 100$ flashlight.

I don’t think your rationale is sound. You are getting a super advanced super high tech light for $100. Not to mention with a programable software based interface and electronic switch. Not to mention, you have the choice of emitters. What did $100 get you 10 years ago? Likely a 500 lumen light with just an on/off button that you would not even take for free today.

Todays lights including this one are technological marvels.

I feel like the “flicker” is getting blown out of proportion. Does it exist? Sure. But it’s not something I really notice. Under 20 lumens, I can tell it’s there when white wall hunting. Above that, or in a “walking around” kind of situation, and it’s no longer apparent/present.

Here’s a video I just took to give you an idea of what’s going on. This is at the lowest default level, 4.5 lumens. The first 3 seconds are normal speed, the rest of the video is 8x slow motion.

I see it but its too minor to be a fault. If you did not mention it, I would have never noticed.

:person_facepalming: :smiley:

OK…I’m pretty disappointed. And, wondering if I’ve done something wrong to my E12R.
I have this version - Emitter type: Samsung LH351D 5700K W2 CRI80 - and it’s my first higher CRI light. Here’s what’s up…

I go on 1 mile walks every night, and take a light. I don’t use it constantly, just periodically to light up an area for safety, etc. I probably use the light a total of 30-45 seconds on each walk. I’ve had my E12R about a month. Over the last couple of weeks, its seems that the light has not been very bright. i would fiddle around to make sure I was in turbo, check the battery levels, etc. But everything checked out - it just seemed the light was not very impressive. I just chalked it up to getting used to it, no big deal. However, it nagged me enough that tonight I decided to get out some other lights and do some checking. The result -

With fresh cells in both (Molicel p42a and Samsung 30q), my new E12R was just.about.as.bright as my 3 year old Emisar D4 (XP-L HI V3) :frowning:
I changed batteries with some topped off ones, same models, and the same result.
I checked against my Fireflies E07, and the E07 was definitely brighter by a bit. Thinking I had messed up a setting in Anduril 2, i’ve spent the last hour and half going over all the configuration settings, and I can’t find anything that speaks to configuring or limiting Turbo. And, I’m definitely in turbo mode - I’m not fond of Anduril 2’s turbo access of ramping up to the top of the ramp, THEN double clicking to turbo. At least in my iteration, you CAN’T get to turbo anywhere in the ramp except from the top. i CAN access turbo with 2H momentary method (along with the ramp up, 2c method).

And turbo is just about as bright as my D4 (4000lm), and not as bright as my EO7 (7000 lumens). Both those lights are high K LED’s, so not as high a CRI as the E12R…but that shouldn’t make that big a difference.
SO, I’ve probably got a total of ten - twelve minutes of “on” time with this light, probably around a 1-2 of turbo - Could the LED’s be damaged in some way?
Is there a programming issue I’m missing? I’ve done the hard reset, no change really.

Help? Jack, any thoughts? Really disappointed, especially after being an early adopter and waiting for about two months to get this light.

I don’t think you’ve damaged the LEDs. Texas_Ace took them up to 10 amps in his output test and they still worked afterwards. There’s no way you’d get anywhere near that with 12 of them.

One thing worth considering, the LH351D is a very floody LED, whereas the XP-L HI you’re comparing against is very throwy. It’s difficult to compare those side by side with ours eyes to draw a meaningful lumens comparison conclusion. I’m not saying you’re wrong, I just imagine that you might be seeing a high light concentration (candela) from your D4, not necessarily more lumens.