FireflyLite E12R 12*emitters 15000LM 1x21700 Flashlight

Also a big fan. Curious about the short tube. I didn’t get one. Is yours a free reviewer sample? When did it ship?

Yeah, I think they included the short tube because I was reviewing it. It’s the same one shown in the T1R thread.

they should just get rid of the FET meme, look how many 219b and e21a leds it has killed on reddit

the highest ramp (6a) is plenty of lumens

How many?
Post some links with the many dead ones because I have not seen just the guy that thought his mule was dead and was working after he cleaned it.

There is flicker on both the NOV-Mu and E12R under 20 lumens or so

Does the Lume1 FW3X driver also have the low level flickering issue?

Would be great to hear comments about this from driver author. If this is hardware limitation, imho this is unacceptable for 100$ flashlight.

I don’t think your rationale is sound. You are getting a super advanced super high tech light for $100. Not to mention with a programable software based interface and electronic switch. Not to mention, you have the choice of emitters. What did $100 get you 10 years ago? Likely a 500 lumen light with just an on/off button that you would not even take for free today.

Todays lights including this one are technological marvels.

I feel like the “flicker” is getting blown out of proportion. Does it exist? Sure. But it’s not something I really notice. Under 20 lumens, I can tell it’s there when white wall hunting. Above that, or in a “walking around” kind of situation, and it’s no longer apparent/present.

Here’s a video I just took to give you an idea of what’s going on. This is at the lowest default level, 4.5 lumens. The first 3 seconds are normal speed, the rest of the video is 8x slow motion.

I see it but its too minor to be a fault. If you did not mention it, I would have never noticed.

:person_facepalming: :smiley:

OK…I’m pretty disappointed. And, wondering if I’ve done something wrong to my E12R.
I have this version - Emitter type: Samsung LH351D 5700K W2 CRI80 - and it’s my first higher CRI light. Here’s what’s up…

I go on 1 mile walks every night, and take a light. I don’t use it constantly, just periodically to light up an area for safety, etc. I probably use the light a total of 30-45 seconds on each walk. I’ve had my E12R about a month. Over the last couple of weeks, its seems that the light has not been very bright. i would fiddle around to make sure I was in turbo, check the battery levels, etc. But everything checked out - it just seemed the light was not very impressive. I just chalked it up to getting used to it, no big deal. However, it nagged me enough that tonight I decided to get out some other lights and do some checking. The result -

With fresh cells in both (Molicel p42a and Samsung 30q), my new E12R was just.about.as.bright as my 3 year old Emisar D4 (XP-L HI V3) :frowning:
I changed batteries with some topped off ones, same models, and the same result.
I checked against my Fireflies E07, and the E07 was definitely brighter by a bit. Thinking I had messed up a setting in Anduril 2, i’ve spent the last hour and half going over all the configuration settings, and I can’t find anything that speaks to configuring or limiting Turbo. And, I’m definitely in turbo mode - I’m not fond of Anduril 2’s turbo access of ramping up to the top of the ramp, THEN double clicking to turbo. At least in my iteration, you CAN’T get to turbo anywhere in the ramp except from the top. i CAN access turbo with 2H momentary method (along with the ramp up, 2c method).

And turbo is just about as bright as my D4 (4000lm), and not as bright as my EO7 (7000 lumens). Both those lights are high K LED’s, so not as high a CRI as the E12R…but that shouldn’t make that big a difference.
SO, I’ve probably got a total of ten - twelve minutes of “on” time with this light, probably around a 1-2 of turbo - Could the LED’s be damaged in some way?
Is there a programming issue I’m missing? I’ve done the hard reset, no change really.

Help? Jack, any thoughts? Really disappointed, especially after being an early adopter and waiting for about two months to get this light.

I don’t think you’ve damaged the LEDs. Texas_Ace took them up to 10 amps in his output test and they still worked afterwards. There’s no way you’d get anywhere near that with 12 of them.

One thing worth considering, the LH351D is a very floody LED, whereas the XP-L HI you’re comparing against is very throwy. It’s difficult to compare those side by side with ours eyes to draw a meaningful lumens comparison conclusion. I’m not saying you’re wrong, I just imagine that you might be seeing a high light concentration (candela) from your D4, not necessarily more lumens.

@TSO

How are you measuring or interpreting brightness?
The LH351d LED is very floody, so if used outdoors, will feel substantially less powerful than a light half as bright set up with something like xp-L hi.

What LED do you have in your E07?

To get a true guage of brightness, without any proper tools, you need to use it indoors and ceiling bounce the light.

The E07 also has XPL HI 3 LED’s I believe. But the testing was done in darkness inside with ceiling bounce off a white ceiling around 10’ up. Also tested outdoors in a snow covered neighborhood.
I tested against an imalent d70 as well, which is also around 4200lm, same results.
The thing is, when I first got it, I thought it was brighter. I didn’t do any side by side testing, but I’m very familiar with the performance of my older lights, and when I first used the E12R, my impression was it was brighter than all my “mid level” lights.

Every consider it may be in muggle mode? The Andruil software is fantastic as long as it working, but when you inadvertently change something, you will curse it over and over. You try a reset?

There is also flicker on the T9R but very minor.

Try do a ceiling bounce test download some light meter app on phone and try on your lights, its weird even if floody that light it should still be plenty bright with those batteries…

I did use a ceiling bounce test to compare. I didn’t have an app to measure, but didn’t need to really - it was pretty evident visually, even though I know that can be subjective.
Its just you would think that a light listed at 12-13K lumens would be obviously brighter than a light listed at 4k lumens.
Either something is amiss in the software/electronics, or something is wrong with the LED’s not putting out what was expected. Its not the batteries.

That’s the exact version I have, and not too happy with it at the moment. I bought the light specifically because of the advertised high output per form factor. I have lots of lights in that approximate size that put out around 4000 lumens, of various color tints.
If you see my above posts, this E12R appears to out out around the same amount of light as those, and somewhat less usable because the beam pattern is pretty floody so there’s no real “aiming” of the light anywhere. On my night walks through my neighborhood and nearby park, the areas I regularly illuminate (under a bridge, A gazebo, down a dark trail head, etc). Are simple not lit as well as when I’ve used some other small lights, despite the advertised 4x greater lumen output. Noticing this is what put me up to doing a comparison.

That said, its a beautifully made light, and I don’t seem to have or notice the flicker at lowest ramp that some have, and I’m getting used to Anduril2.
However, if I could have seen earlier the comparison I’ve now performed, I wouldn’t have purchased it. I have too many 4k lumen lights as it is!