thank you, and thanks for the shipping heads up .
Do you have any of these in stock?
thx
Yes, now they are solid (one piece) design.
1 copper and 4 aluminium left.
Sweet I would like the copper will you send PM for payment?
EDIT: do you have a copper P60 pill in stock?
I’m looking for a copper spacer for the M1. I’d like to run a triple or quad LED with a carclo lens. Haven’t decided 100% yet on that, but let me know what you think Kirill.
M1 head is huge. Im not sure it will look proportional with tiny 20mm triole optics.
Ok so you’ve made my decision for me. What would you charge for a quad LED spacer with a carclo lens?
Custom Cu spacer+alu centering ring=$10
Optics is $2.
I’m kind of a newb with this stuff, but would khatod optics be better? I’m looking for the tightest beam and best temp protection possible. I’m a firefighter and I want to build a light that can penetrate smoke. Looking to build this with a warm white (2700-3000k) XP-L HI LED board from MTN.
Dont thin so.
It is hard to achieve tight beam with small multi-led optics.
Actually, I just took another look at MTN and they don’t have any premade quad LED options, only triples. So I’ll have to stick with that. I’m looking at the carclo 10507 lens with a the noctigon 3x mcpcb with XP-L HI LEDs
I think you can add quad pcb and 4 leds to the cart and check toolbox “solder options”.
Ok so I’m back to quad then. Just added 4x XP-L HI LEDs and the standard MTN 4XP mcpcb to my cart at MTN. I also threw a carclo 10621 optic into the cart, but I’m still wondering if you think khatod would provide better temp protection and beam profile? Lastly, I already have an AR lens for the M1 that I’d like to put in front of the optic to protect it from debris. Afterall, firefighting isn’t exactly a profession that treats equipment nicely. Lol
I have not seen anyone who could say why Kathod quad is better than 10621. I suppose this is the reason why I have not heard “khatod quad” for several years.
What do you mean by temp protection? If you need flashlight that can be heated from outside (fire), any plastic lens have similar melting point.
If you are trying to cut through smoke, you definitely don’t want a triple OR quad from khatod, carclo, or anyone. Your best option honestly might be the stock reflector and an Osram CSLNM1.FY (yellow-orange light) [available from Convoy Aliexpress]
You really want a narrow beam, ~4° and the narrowest/least intense spill (field) possible, and to achieve that in a light this size you need a single optic with a domeless emitter with 2mm² or smaller emitting surface area. Even the spill beam, though not intense, will blind you in the foreground and hurt your visibility. A very deep reflector or better a very narrow single TIR or even aspheric light is what you want. If you are ordering from MTN exclusively, he still has the UF-T20 host. Might be a good idea. It’s a glass lens - heavy but flame resistant. Try that XPL HI 2700k in there and compare to the quad setup you build and tell me if I’m wrong.
You are right.
I think Convoy C8 with small warm led is also very good choice.
Any chance you guys know a place to get a TIR that’ll fit the M1 or S2? For starters, I already have an extra M1 and driver just waiting for an LED and optic, so I’m going to stay away from the UF-T20 for now. Secondly, I’m currently running an S2 with a 3000K XP-L HI LED, OP reflector, and AR lens on my helmet, but it feels a little underpowered for what I originally wanted. I just worked a big extra alarm fire about two weeks ago and I had over an hour of runtime with it in extremely smoky conditions. Talk about trial by fire, all 3 floors were rolling with fire and here in Chicago, we rarely go defensive, so I was right in the thick of that fire and smoke ripping down ceilings and walls and “opening” windows for ventilation and overhaul. It was a great light, but in a few situations even on turbo I was hoping for a few more lumens and/or a little less spill from it. I’d love to upgrade the S2 with a TIR and also have an M1 quad/triple or single TIR as a backup.
Keep in mind that even a 2.8A S2+ will get too hot to even touch if left unattended even a few minutes. By “unattended” I mean not having an ungloved hand wicking away excess heat. Had one tailstanding for just 5min or so, and when I went to grab it to turn it off, I just dropped it, as it was like grabbing the business end of a curling iron. Needed to grab a shirt or something to use as an “oven mitt” to just get hold of it long enough to turn it off, and then drop it again ’til it cooled off. Not Fun.
Tubelights have pretty lousy heat dissipation, no fins or anything to help with that, so build up heat fast.
“Smart” lights will throttle down on their own, but “dumb” lights will just keep going full-tilt ’til the LED cooks, or even the driver pops, or worst case the cell itself overheats and vents.
You really need a bigger light for a) more thermal mass to soak up and spread out the heat, and b) way more cooling fins to dump that heat to the environment.
Sorry to hijack the thread, but I really appreciate the help and advice from you guys. The S2 on my helmet is running a Bistro FET+7135 and the temp sensor is set to about 130°F (roughly hot water temp from the faucet) before turbo drops down. I also have it set with moonlight off (don’t need it on a helmet light in a fire) and 4 mode (25/50/75/100) light levels. It’s perfect for my needs, but I’m sure a TIR optic would improve the beam tightness. I was running it at 50/75 for most of the fire with no issues, but there were a few moments when I kicked it up to turbo for a specific task and it felt underpowered.
I think you need more candela, not lumens (and the accompanying watts). Even running the same driver and led in the M1 will probably be a large improvement for you. Carclo 30 mm TIR (10755) could probably be made to work in the m1 with a custom spacer. It’s 14.3mm tall vs the reflector at 23.2mm. 7.2° beam with the HI and about 32cd/LM. ~25kcd would be pretty effective and sustainable IMO.
It happens someone here may be able to help with that 