I did use a ceiling bounce test to compare. I didn’t have an app to measure, but didn’t need to really - it was pretty evident visually, even though I know that can be subjective.
Its just you would think that a light listed at 12-13K lumens would be obviously brighter than a light listed at 4k lumens.
Either something is amiss in the software/electronics, or something is wrong with the LED’s not putting out what was expected. Its not the batteries.
That’s the exact version I have, and not too happy with it at the moment. I bought the light specifically because of the advertised high output per form factor. I have lots of lights in that approximate size that put out around 4000 lumens, of various color tints.
If you see my above posts, this E12R appears to out out around the same amount of light as those, and somewhat less usable because the beam pattern is pretty floody so there’s no real “aiming” of the light anywhere. On my night walks through my neighborhood and nearby park, the areas I regularly illuminate (under a bridge, A gazebo, down a dark trail head, etc). Are simple not lit as well as when I’ve used some other small lights, despite the advertised 4x greater lumen output. Noticing this is what put me up to doing a comparison.
That said, its a beautifully made light, and I don’t seem to have or notice the flicker at lowest ramp that some have, and I’m getting used to Anduril2.
However, if I could have seen earlier the comparison I’ve now performed, I wouldn’t have purchased it. I have too many 4k lumen lights as it is!
This is the primary issue. You cannot simply look at lumens you must also consider candela (cd or kcd commonly in the stats, “throw”). Comparing lumens to lumens is only useful for things like round light bulbs where the light is completely diffused in all directions.
In fact if you are trying to see under a bridge or down a dark trail a floody light can work against you even if it was 20x brighter. By the time the increase in lumens “reaches” out far enough it has probably made things close up TOO bright causing reflections and your own pupils to work against you. You mention snow, yea, that’s reflective for sure.
In fact a ~1,000 lumen zoomie could easily see down a long trail better than your 4,000 lumen multi-LED light of any kind. It’s a balance though cause that would be a poor choice for walking since it’s not good for lighting up your feet at all.
Yeah…no. 
I hear what you are saying, but I’m not a novice. The 6 years or so and the use of the 30 lights on the shelf as well as the excellent discussions and information in this forum the last few years have prepared me for what to expect. It’s just not performing as it should. I have floody EDC lights in the 3800 lumen range which are performing at about the same level. I spent time on the UI last night - did hard resets several times, changed the ramp percentages, etc, to no change.
If you needed more convincing - I can access turbo through either the 2hold or the 2click from top of ramp method, hold turbo for 30-40 seconds, and the light only gets moderately warm. My E07 or the D4, or any other of my high performance lights would be pretty scalding by 30 seconds, but not this E12R…only slightly warm. Tell me THAT doesn’t set off some “something’s amiss” alarm bells! 
It feels almost like a bad cell, but I have four 21700 cells from three different manufacturers that I have topped off and tried in it - all about the same.
It’s a mystery.
I’d love to see anyone with the same configuration do a side by side comparison with their other lights to see see if they notice anything similar.
After 6 years I guess it’s time to invest in a $20 lux meter or clamp meter. 
It wasn’t clear to me that you were so certain it was an error and not buyer’s remorse.
Yeah, probably, lol!
I do have access to lots of light meters, as in my job I’m with guys who hang theatrical lights and do lighting design for a living. Was having lunch with a couple today from my team, and mentioned my experience. They said to bring it with me next time and we could run some tests.
When Texas Ace modded my Haikelite Mt09R a couple of years back, I ALMOST bought the tube integration sphere that was being offered for $100 at the time. Didn’t get around to it, as i had never had any reason to doubt the lights I had bought. Now kinda wishing I had…
Thanks for engaging. Wish I had some answers.
In this case since you dont have those tools the next best thing is so start cleaning and tightening. If you have isopropyl take it and clean springs, threads, tighten any driver rings, everything. Good luck
Sounds like bad temperature calibration. Or maybe bad LED reflow.
With Nichia 219 in turbo (2H from off) it become extremely hot and you can try to listen if there is a sound click inside the head like a relè in the exact moment the turbo start… or put it in strobe mode and you can listen a click
I am reading all these posts about this light and I cant figure if its internally defective or not. It seems there is slight flicker. Normal? Yes/No?
Also is it possible that some users went down the wrong Andruil path and locked themselves out?
The same flicker is in the Noctigon KR4 on level 1
Temp calibration - that’s one thing I haven’t tried yet. I winder if its set in a way that would basically deny it from going full turbo. If the scale-down temp was set at a level below room temperature, would that effectively lock out turbo? Its one more thing to check, I guess. I’d since run out of ideas. Thanks
These lights shouldn’t need thermal calibration. Instead of using the attiny for temp measurement (known to vary wildly), these us an external no-calibration-needed thermal sensor.
I always reconfigure thermal calibration so I didn’t belive the “this new one doesn’t need it” and checked. Mine was about 6 degrees off. So much for factory calibration…
Except for this the flashlight is wonderful. Besides its specific features, all building shortcomings I found in other FF models were corrected. Another excelent detail for me is that the springs don’t need to have low resistance, this is important for turbo. They also are quite stiff and provide good contact even for flat top unprotected batteries; this is a problem is recent E07 editions.
I also like Anduril 2, it has several new features that I find quite useful. I use hybrid memory mode extensively.
Either something is wrong with your light or you are doing something wrong. I have half a dozen D4 and over a dozen E07. The E12R is surely brighter than the E07 and much brighter than the D4. Did you try wiping all the contacts with isopropyl alcohol? If not, give it a try.
I believe not. I think gchart got the tube and battery because it was a review sample. The tube doesn’t look quite complete yet 
It looks like there’s going to be a screw on clip but we’ve heard no word of it
I took measurements and posted here
How do your E12Rs’ MCPCBs look? I received my the NOV-MU and the E12R today. My NOV-MU is working perfectly but my E12R’s 219bs aren’t turning on. The battery should have a good connection because power is working since the aux lights turn on, and I’m pretty sure my switch is working because the aux lights are turning off when I press the switch. I don’t see any flashes of the main LEDs I connect the battery tube like I do with my NOV.
I opened up the head to take a look inside and do some cleaning since the optics looked like they had some dirt in them.
These big solder joints look pretty bad so I’m thinking maybe one of them is a cold joint.
All this dust and debris was from the light itself since I took these photos right after opening the head up. My nov-mu’s mcpcb is really clean but I’m disappointed with how dirty my E12R’s mcpcb looks.
Edit: light is working in turbo but regular modes do not work. I believe I will receive a replacement head.
I had the problem of a not connected solder joint once in a Fireflies E07. Try to press the solder joints down with your finger and see if the main lights turn on. That white cable looks suspicious. I hope you have a soldering iron or this will be difficult to fix.
With errors like this I am really wondering about Fireflies’ QC which should discover such things.