After 6 years I guess it’s time to invest in a $20 lux meter or clamp meter. 
It wasn’t clear to me that you were so certain it was an error and not buyer’s remorse.
Yeah, probably, lol!
I do have access to lots of light meters, as in my job I’m with guys who hang theatrical lights and do lighting design for a living. Was having lunch with a couple today from my team, and mentioned my experience. They said to bring it with me next time and we could run some tests.
When Texas Ace modded my Haikelite Mt09R a couple of years back, I ALMOST bought the tube integration sphere that was being offered for $100 at the time. Didn’t get around to it, as i had never had any reason to doubt the lights I had bought. Now kinda wishing I had…
Thanks for engaging. Wish I had some answers.
In this case since you dont have those tools the next best thing is so start cleaning and tightening. If you have isopropyl take it and clean springs, threads, tighten any driver rings, everything. Good luck
Sounds like bad temperature calibration. Or maybe bad LED reflow.
With Nichia 219 in turbo (2H from off) it become extremely hot and you can try to listen if there is a sound click inside the head like a relè in the exact moment the turbo start… or put it in strobe mode and you can listen a click
I am reading all these posts about this light and I cant figure if its internally defective or not. It seems there is slight flicker. Normal? Yes/No?
Also is it possible that some users went down the wrong Andruil path and locked themselves out?
The same flicker is in the Noctigon KR4 on level 1
Temp calibration - that’s one thing I haven’t tried yet. I winder if its set in a way that would basically deny it from going full turbo. If the scale-down temp was set at a level below room temperature, would that effectively lock out turbo? Its one more thing to check, I guess. I’d since run out of ideas. Thanks
These lights shouldn’t need thermal calibration. Instead of using the attiny for temp measurement (known to vary wildly), these us an external no-calibration-needed thermal sensor.
I always reconfigure thermal calibration so I didn’t belive the “this new one doesn’t need it” and checked. Mine was about 6 degrees off. So much for factory calibration…
Except for this the flashlight is wonderful. Besides its specific features, all building shortcomings I found in other FF models were corrected. Another excelent detail for me is that the springs don’t need to have low resistance, this is important for turbo. They also are quite stiff and provide good contact even for flat top unprotected batteries; this is a problem is recent E07 editions.
I also like Anduril 2, it has several new features that I find quite useful. I use hybrid memory mode extensively.
Either something is wrong with your light or you are doing something wrong. I have half a dozen D4 and over a dozen E07. The E12R is surely brighter than the E07 and much brighter than the D4. Did you try wiping all the contacts with isopropyl alcohol? If not, give it a try.
I believe not. I think gchart got the tube and battery because it was a review sample. The tube doesn’t look quite complete yet 
It looks like there’s going to be a screw on clip but we’ve heard no word of it
I took measurements and posted here
How do your E12Rs’ MCPCBs look? I received my the NOV-MU and the E12R today. My NOV-MU is working perfectly but my E12R’s 219bs aren’t turning on. The battery should have a good connection because power is working since the aux lights turn on, and I’m pretty sure my switch is working because the aux lights are turning off when I press the switch. I don’t see any flashes of the main LEDs I connect the battery tube like I do with my NOV.
I opened up the head to take a look inside and do some cleaning since the optics looked like they had some dirt in them.
These big solder joints look pretty bad so I’m thinking maybe one of them is a cold joint.
All this dust and debris was from the light itself since I took these photos right after opening the head up. My nov-mu’s mcpcb is really clean but I’m disappointed with how dirty my E12R’s mcpcb looks.
Edit: light is working in turbo but regular modes do not work. I believe I will receive a replacement head.
I had the problem of a not connected solder joint once in a Fireflies E07. Try to press the solder joints down with your finger and see if the main lights turn on. That white cable looks suspicious. I hope you have a soldering iron or this will be difficult to fix.
With errors like this I am really wondering about Fireflies’ QC which should discover such things.
I just did that as well as the usual troubleshooting steps of cleaning the threads as well as a reset (I think it has been reset since I did the same procedure of resetting which worked with the Nov-Mu and I can no longer change the aux lights which seems to indicate it’s in simple mode). Still no sign of the revered 219bs turning on.
On a side note, I am not impressed with the threads fireflies chose. The anodized head ones are super thin and make me worry about cross threading it every time I change the battery. My D4V2 feels the same way but at least it has anodized tail threads and changing the battery by the tail side on that is a very smooth feeling process. Fireflies chose unannodized tail threads and they GRIND, even with lube.
My Nov-Mu’s anodized threads at the head are already wearing away. The light was already blinking rapidly as connection was completed and lost from the anodizing wearing off at the threads, the second time I ever inserted a battery into the light!
The question for FF, but not E12R )
How many х7135 is in ROT66 ii? (SST20/4000)
The current in 7th level is about 5,6А (That’s more than 8x7135), but in Anduril config file for ROT66 ii is 7th level fully regulated
Does anyone know?