I’m sure that you can have no idea if the Nano that you order now has that new copper board.
But for me that pic is helpful anyway, thanks. It shows the size of the board and how it fits in the head, nothing special there. It looks like I can swap in a copper board myself if the board is not copper. It convinces me to buy a Nano now
I saw the 10440 tube on Facebook or at Neals shop when I did the review. I just assumed (which I shouldn't have done) that the 10440 tube would be available soon after the review. It's 3 months later, and the tube is still not available.
My newly arrived Nano from Banggood also has a copper board. I haven’t tested to see if it has a DTP design. Maybe I’m wrong but I’m not sure it’s that important given the nature of the light.
I’ve asked Lumintop about the change, and also 10440 battery tubes, no reply yet but knowing what I do about Chinese manufacturing, personally I would be confident of getting a copper board as apparently the change was months ago, the sellers I know of sold out and were recently restocked, and the Chinese have a horror of sitting on unsold inventory. Notice I said personally. For example; I canceled my Lumintop order yesterday and got a query from them about the cancelation. The site says there are around 35 copper nanos in stock but turns out you are actually preordering and he lights will be in stock around March 10th.
BTW I found the Lumintop site difficult to use, but not as bad as Aliexpress. Also if searching for Lumintop, clicking on the Lumintoponline instead of lumintoplighting site got me to a official looking site that wasn’t current and wouldn’t allow me to log in without reregistering. Strange.
I’m curious why a aluminum board would apparently cause the led to be overdriven. The difference in conductivity?
It might be the other way around. I used lumintoplighting@foxmail.com and got a reply about my order, lumintoponline might be bogus, I didn’t try that email as the site didn’t work for me and also doesn’t show the Nano copper.
I guess so!
Example: I have a Tool AA, in which I was using a Samsung LH351D Led, on the stock aluminium board + FET Driver + Vapcell H10.
When I first lighted it with the H10 inside, within seconds it turned blue.
I ordered a thicker copper DTP MCPCB from Kaidomain store at AliExpress and used a new led (the other was damaged), same driver and cell. Guess what, it didn’t turn blue anymore.
Knowing that the Osram leds are even more sensitive to heat and current, if not put in an adequate PCB, they will blue in harder conditions, specially with FET drivers or high drain cells.
The GT Nano I received from AmazonUS appears to have a copper board. I do not know how to determine if the board has DTP.
But being new to this hobby, I have two questions:
1) I had to pry the board up and off the shelf to see the side to determine if it was copper.
Did I destroy any Thermal Paste that might have been under the board and do I need to re-apply more Thermal Paste (which I do not have any of) or was it OK to just put the board back into the shelf and re-assemble the Reflector, O-ring, Glass Lens and Bezel?
2) The copper board has a white colored surface.
Is there a reason the copper board has a white surface coating and is this coating anything special and is it OK if the white coating has some scratches in it between the led and where the wires are soldered to the board?
It is generally believed that you should replace the paste, but in my personal opinion if there is enough left to cover the underside of the board just pressing the board back onto the shelf will be fine for heat transfer.
The white coating on top of the board (called solder mask) does not do much, in theory exposed copper tracing could electrically short with things, mostly the reflector, but assuming there is a plastic centering thingy that keeps the reflector from touching the board, no shorts are possible and you will be fine.
The clearance between the board and shelf allowed for some sideways movement, but the LED lined up OK with the reflector when I re-assembled everything.
The light works fine, so I am guessing the scratches will not be an issue. I was very careful prying the board and did not cause the scratches. The scratches probably occurred when the wires were soldered to the board. The soldering was not done very well and looks like a cold-soldered-joint so I was extra careful and did not pry the board out any more than necessary to see the copper side since I did not want to break the wires off.
My Nano from Skylumen has a copper board. I have used it pretty extensively with both the TiHi and Nitefox 10440 tubes and absolutely no bluing of the LED.
I was happy too that the Nitefox head works great with Nano Body. A two for one great buy with the Nitefox!
Thanks for taking the risk and posting your results.
Did you use a 10180 Li-ion battery in the GT Nano body with the NiteFox K3 head or did you use a 10180 NiMH battery?
If so, it is very interesting that the higher voltage Li-ion battery did not damage the NiteFox K3 head and now I am wondering if the stock NiteFox would be damaged if I used a 10440 Li-ion battery in it (which may allow a higher current flow than a 10180 Li-ion battery would) and how much brighter it would be compared to using a NiMH AAA battery.
I do not have any 10440 Li-ion batteries yet, but did purchase the two-pack of the NiteFox K3 single-AAA-sized twisty lights from AmazonUS along with my GT Nano.