Four new lights actually. E12R, T9R, NOV-Mu and T1R. The latter one has not been seen in the wild(erness) yet but I asked Jacky to send me one for review. The 6A buckdriver is derived from Loneocean's Lume-1 driver and as far as I am informed Loneoceans made this custom driver for Fireflies. Not sure, if this information is of any help to sort the licensing issues, though.
If it doesn’t speak to you, don’t get one. It’s not something I would get, because it’s not a category of light I have a use for. I use wide “soup can” lights sometimes when I need many lumens for a long time, especially for photo lighting purposes or as a lantern. And I use “plunger” shape thrower lights sometimes when I need to see a long distance. But I don’t really see the appeal of a “plunger” shape flood light.
I would even use a soda can thrower (3×18650 is the best format I have ever used, but I would still use 3×21700, I guess). “Plunger” shaped floodlight is kind of ‘meh’ for me, too. Unless it is very special (still, not this one).
Well, I actually bought 3 of these and I love them. One of them is E21A 2000K on CH1 (my favorite indoor tint) with 660nm red secondaries. So awesome for use around the house.
I have another one that I carry when I’m out that has 4000K XP-L HI V2 5D + red secondary and it’s great to be able to activate the red for in the car, etc.
Mixes are one thing, I mean a light like the Sofirn IF25 or LT1 that can smoothly and gradually transition between each extreme. Having the top and bottom end of most white lighting - and everything in between! - from a single light is super appealing to me.
That’s wild… I didn’t even know there were single LEDs that can vary the tint of the light they emit. I figured it was done by having multiple LEDs of different tints and adjusting the intensity of each of them to get the different tints
I think the 4 LED's are wired on 2 different output channels, therefore the firmware can control the levels of each pair independently. So if you have a pair of WW tint and a pair of CW tint, by mixing percentages, you can have a resulting beam of NW and every tint between WW and CW.
I think something like this would sell very well, too. But even w/o UV light it would probably mean a lot of work as it requires serial connection to each single LED.
The latter is exactly what is done. By smoothly shifting the power up and down for both channels (each wired to the LED (s) of a single color temp) you can smoothly ramp through the whole range of color temp they provide, with the actual temps of those LEDs obviously being the min and max settings.